LeonV

If those are your choices, there won't be much of a difference between them. The MSA one may come on at slightly higher rpm. Number one and two are almost identical, with #2 probably shifting the powerband up a tiny amount. Why do you limit yourself at .460" lift, valve springs?

You're not going to get much negative camber in the front of a Z by just lowering it, other measures are required. My 260Z is lowered about 2" in front and I have -0.5deg of camber. If you plan to do a lot of autoX and track work, I would highly recommend switching to adjustable coilovers. Instead of spending valuable time trying to make a setup with very limited adjustability work right, just spend the time and money now on the coilovers if you're truly serious about this. Otherwise, minimal changes in the current setup will yield small (if any) gains.

Why not? It's a smart design, flip the arm and it fits the other side.

Out of curiousity, what does your exhaust manifold look like? The downpipe looks like it hooks up to a Clifford header or similar. Any photos?

No, not "more better." The ZX box is already a cold air intake, and putting on an "intake kit" won't do anything but change the sound coming from under-hood. Put in a K&N drop-in filter.

I have heard multiple people getting 30mpg using MS. In fact, I know a guy who did a turbo swap using MS and did just that. Just takes some tuning and a precise fuel delivery system (not carbs).

Read my post again... The increase in acceleration is brought on by a decrease in rotational inertia, not any increase in power. Of course it revved faster, there is less inertia for the engine to rotate, just like Steve's example of putting on lighter wheels. This means nothing in terms of how much power your engine puts out to the wheels. Stock flywheels are 23lb or so by the way. Steve hit the nail on the head!

Spray cool water on the metal lines from a bottle. If it helps, the lines need insulation or some sort of heat shielding. Nissan installed a cooling fan on the 280ZX to alleviate this problem.

Pretty sure it's not flash, but I'm no software expert. You must be missing some sort of driver/codec/application/???. It works on Explorer and Firefox on my work and home computers.

In Europe, they also subsidizes diesel prices. In the US, we subsidize corn-based ethanol. Go figure...

Not to be picky, but there is exactly zero power gain from switching flywheels. What you are doing is decreasing rotational inertia, which in turn increases acceleration and can be perceived as a power gain. Your engine isn't making any more power, nor is more power getting to the wheels than before. Instead, think of it as if you just removed some weight from your car. Threadjack over!

Have you tried cooling down the fuel lines before you attempt a hot start, or when the symptoms show up?

I was running slotted 14" mags with 225/60-14 size tires on them and they fit very nicely. However, the tire selection is poor so I upgraded to 16" Panasports.

Strange, works for me, on different computers even.

I like this one a lot better.

Just think of it this way, if you buy a less than stellar-bodied example in Florida, will it be more expensive than to just take a road trip or fly out of state and drive/tow/ship the car back to Florida? Answer that and your objective will become clear. Keeping intial cost down, versus paying more for a good body, may seem fine in the short term but keep in mind that costs add up.

Never leave your car supported by a jack. Place jackstands in the correct locations and leave it on the stands for as long as you have to. With that said, as beerman points out, I doubt your insulator failed from that, especially if the diff was supported as the FSM shows (toward the rear diff mount/mustache bar).

Find the car with as little rust as possible! This may require you to travel far, possibly out of state. California is full of essentially "rust-free" Zs, so is AZ, plus they are cheaper than on the East Coast. Everything else is easy: engine, drivetrain, suspension, interior, when compared to doing tons of rust repair. If you're very patient, 2-5 years is okay. I got impatient of my '71 being on jackstands for 2 years, so I bought an early '74 260Z. I needed to drive a Z already and it allowed me to take my time with the 240Z. Lastly, do your research. There is tons of Z-related info that you can find by searching here, hybridz.org, zcar.com, through which you will likely find links to other interesting Z sites, like http://datsunzgarage.com/'>DatsunZGarage, http://atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html'>Blue's Tech Tips, Zhome and Xenon's site. Welcome to the addiction!

Those ratios match the '77-'79 Z/ZX and '81-83 ZX, respectively. The close-ratio transmission is great, less drop from 2-3 shifts and a taller overdrive, for lower cruising rpm. I have the late ZX trans in my Z paired with a 3.9, and love the gearing. Before I swapped in the 3.9, the rear diff was a 3.54, and I still very much liked it. Get the close-ratio trans, and if you decide you want even more tractive effort then install a higher ratio diff. Ratios: http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html

Right, just like the FSM picture. I can't think of why anyone would place the jack on any other spot on the diff...

The differential housing is the rear jacking point as specified by the FSM; page GI-11, figure GI-9 (in '72 FSM). That's where I always jack the rear up and never had a problem. FYI...

Panasports!

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It was great meeting you, Julio! It was an awesome show, I'll upload a few of my pics as well.

Very true! Maybe I'll register on-site...