LeonV

I'd like some more info. If the 260Z is reliable by then, I may consider it.

If I read that right, your rear wheels lock before your fronts do. This is not good for braking stability nor for maximum braking performance. Your brake balance is off. The fronts should lock first in the highest grip situation that you plan on driving in (dry pavement, stickies tires you will use). Then they will definitely lock first in lower grip situations. Just FYI...

Took the rears apart today and measured. Thankfully, my rear 9/73 260Z struts essentially match up to 1/71 240Z struts. Here are the numbers (240Z/260Z): Inner Overall Height: 16.6875"/16.75" Spring Perch to strut top: 13cm/13cm ID: 46mm/46mm When I install those back onto the car I'll update this thread.

Thanks John, I've read that thread already in preparation for what may be inevitable. I'll have to bust out my spring formulas and do some calcs to really nail down the height and spring rate I want. I'll see what the rears look like today, and shave my front bumpstops before I take it on a test drive. What I'm putting in will definitely be better than the cut stock springs that were in there.

Yeah, I noticed that too. Our springs are definitely different, visually and part-number wise. Mine are from a 240Z, are your springs the 280Z ones? I'm thinking that if I don't have enough bump travel that I'll just get the 280Z Tokico springs and cut them. The rear suspension is off the car, so tomorrow I will hopefully get the spindle pins out and work on the rear struts. I'll be sure to measure and note any differences between my early 260Z and '71 240Z struts.

Do they? Where can I get these early-260Z specific shocks/springs?

Yeah, that's what I figured. Nobody wants to make springs/shocks specifically for the early 260Z, which have different strut tubes than the 240Z and late 260Z/280Z as we've shown. Early 260Z owners just have to adapt to what is out there.

Dave, Your post is very much appreciated, especially the strut differences. That's why the gland nut almost bottomed... The difference I see is in the springs you're using. My springs are the 240Z PN and your's are the 280Z ones I believe, maybe I'm wrong. As you can see, my front springs needed a spring compressor to install. Your springs also look different, as they seem to be linear (not progressive) in front, unlike mine. Haven't done the backs yet so I guess we'll see how that turns out. Here is my logic in this situation. As your picture shows, the 260Z spring perch is one inch lower than the 240Z perch. The Eibach kit is the same for the 240Z and early 260Z. That means that using the same spring lowers the 260Z an extra inch. Therefore, if these Eibachs are designed to lower the 240Z 1-1.5" as advertised, that means that the 260Z is lowered 2-2.5 inches! Nevermind the essentially complete loss of bump travel. I suppose the first course of action is to cut the ES bump stops, like I should have done in the first place. If that doesn't help then I might just have to buy some 280Z springs and save the Eibachs for the '71 240Z. Oh those quirky 260Zs...

I'm rebuilding the suspension (bushings, springs, shocks, etc.) on my 9/73 260Z and I just ran into something unsettling. I installed Tokico HPs and Eibachs which are both listed as compatible with the 240Z and early 260Z. When I put in the HP inserts, the gland nuts almost bottomed out. They are tightened but very close to the strut top even with the gland nut spacer. But this is not the main problem. While I was putting the springs on I noticed that my 260Z spring perch sits noticeably lower than the 240Z struts I have to compare with. I decided to go on anyway, because the springs are listed as the same for the 240/260Z (early). I installed the struts on the car (ARB or steering rack uninstalled, but that doesn't make a difference) and I have virtually no bump travel with the ES bump stop in there. Cutting or removing the bump stop will help but not by much, as I think it would still bottom out all the time. The springs are installed correctly, with part number 6305.001 in front. Now I'm thinking someone installed later struts but I measured the strut ID and it was equal to my 240Z strut tube! My strut inserts fit snugly into both my 260Z and 240Z strut tubes. The difference being that the 260Z lower spring perch sits lower than the 240Z spring perch. I don't remember there being much of a difference in overall height. At this point, I'm not quite sure what's going on here. Are there three types of stock S30 struts? It does not look like someone cut the perch and welded it lower. I suppose I can get longer springs (maybe some 280Z performance springs), but what is the issue here? I've been searching and haven't seen this problem. Here are some photos for reference:

What do you mean by rocker arms are out of line? You don't have to "tear apart" anything to do anything rocker arm related. You do have to take the valve cover off. If that's a big undertaking for you then maybe an engine swap is not a good idea. Changing a clutch is also magnitudes easier than an engine swap. Some strange logic is being applied here.

Correct, I have the same tire size on my lowered 260Z. Wheel offset explanation: http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/wheel-tech.html You have wheels with a high positive offset.

Your brake booster is dead, time for a new one.

That tire size should fit just fine, it's the wheel that will make the difference. What is your wheel offset?

Here: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/pts/2177135286.html He may even be a forum member.

http://www.datsunstore.com/product_info.php/products_id/1428 or http://www.datsunstore.com/product_info.php/products_id/1429

Make sure the throttles are closed and the choke is pulled back. Starting fluid is a good suggestion. Do you have fresh oil and coolant in there, not sure if you addressed that already?

Clutch cable? Unless you're converting to a mechanical clutch, there should be no need for a clutch cable. Z-car clutches are hydraulic. Search is your friend.

Whoops! The second pic didn't load for me when I posted. The first photo looked like an R200 to me, but the drain plugs tell the whole story. Sorry about the confusion.

That's an R200 diff, not standard for the 240Z. You need a curved transverse link mount. Looks to me like the PO did a bit of work on the original link mount to make the R200 fit.

I got a 2-core Champion as well. It looks great and cools well. The only problem I had was bent mounting tabs when I received it, but I bent them back and was good to go. Remember to soft mount these Aluminum rads or they will crack sooner or later.

That's exactly what I did as well. I just looked up the oil specs in the correct year FSM for my tranny (late ZX 5-speed) and matched it with Redline products at a local speed shop. I don't remember exactly, but I'm pretty sure I got the weights that Jeff mentioned, MT90 for tranny and 75W90 for the diff.

I don't see the need to reground the cam, it's a very durable piece (just like the rest of the engine minus the rod bolts). Maybe it's a Ford thing to do. They should make sure that all valvetrain parts are reinstalled at the same lobe that they were previously on, or else you will have wear problems. No need to resurface anything if there are no abnormalities found, and you're going for stock. If you ever plan on winding the engine out, get some ARP rod bolts. It's cheap insurance. Also, there are no bearings in the head that they can replace.

I have 225/60 Yokohamas on 14X7 wheels, that's how it came from the PO. The car is lowered (mystery springs) and I haven't had any rubbing issues. Sorry about the poor quality photo.

I didn't know he had a Mini! That car seems way too nice to part out though.

Searching the forums is a good start to dealing with issues as well as consulting your service manual. You can get the FSM at xenons30.com, there isn't one for a '70 but get the '72 manual as it should be very similar. I'd say check for spark first, once that is verified make sure you're getting fuel. I know, very general but it's a start. Good luck!