LeonV
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Everything posted by LeonV
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Yes, that's the gland nut P/N. AJUSA was able to source them for me and were awesome to deal with. Another HBZ member recently bought the same stuff and they were able to get it all for him. Hurry, the inserts may still be on sale @ $132/ea! I have not installed them yet and have heard that you may need to slightly shave down the threaded portion of the gland nut in some cases. If you don't plan to lower your car much, you can use the stock housings. All you need to do is take the appropriate measurements and cut a 1.5" OD pipe to use as a spacer, such as what Tokico does for their rear inserts. -
I'd love to do 128 sometime, I wanted to take it on the way home but it was not in the books. Thanks for the tips, Dave! And it still is! The roads around Petaluma are fantastic although some have gotten a bit run-down. There are some great Abalone diving spots along the coast as well...
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I recently got new P30-0032 Bilsteins (VW Rabbit) for my Z, along with new gland nuts that fit. Search HybridZ, the info is in there somewhere. I know I posted the part numbers and source in my build thread, "Leon's Other 260Z". Looks like the HBZ server is down right now so I can't link you...
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Nice, Hwy 20 is a blast! That is, if the slow movers pull over or you go at off-peak hours. We camped at MacKerricher a month or two ago, it's a beautiful area along with the rest of Northern CA.
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Nicely done Captain! Damn. That's why I've always used scissor jacks underneath metal ramps if I'm ever working underneath them.
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Yet another great idea! As long as I have some momentum before hitting the wood, I typically don't have issues getting up on them. With that said, rossiz makes a good point, and most of the time I work on my cars at the shop anyway where I have access to lifts and whatnot.
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Awesome find Steve and Captain!
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Exactly! I have to do that with the Z and even my bone-stock S2000. It just adds one step to the process, you get used to it.
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Some chunks of 2X4.
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Welcome! Good to have another SF Bay Area member.
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You can do a leak down test but those compression numbers aren't awful. I bet some valves are just not sealing as well as the others. If your oil consumption isn't the rings, it could be the valve stem seals, an item that gets replaced during a head job.
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Thumbs up for the thread title!
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Need Guidance-looking for throttle body electronic fuel injectors
LeonV replied to SJC240's topic in Carburetor Central
Sure, you can bolt on throttle bodies and having something nice to look at, but to make it all actually work is certainly not plug-and-play... -
Need Guidance-looking for throttle body electronic fuel injectors
LeonV replied to SJC240's topic in Carburetor Central
Back on point, I've heard good things about the Patton Machine stuff and Megasquirt is a great way to go for a standalone. This is not a plug-and-play project. There is much research ahead of you... -
Need Guidance-looking for throttle body electronic fuel injectors
LeonV replied to SJC240's topic in Carburetor Central
None of the above. The "SUs" that came on Z-cars aren't actually SUs, they are Hitachi HJG46W (USA round tops) or HMB46W (USA flat tops), the design being licensed by SU. They're colloquially referred to as SUs because that's where the design came from, Nissan called them both SUs and SU-type in the FSMs. -
A compression test is a good idea and if it shows any signs that something is wrong, make sure you check leak-down as well. If all is healthy, I'd take the head to the machine shop to get checked. An alternative is buying a used head as mentioned above, sending that head to the machine shop, and then just swapping heads.
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Replace the head gasket. It's a relatively easy job on the L-series.
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Let's call it 2450lb with AC. There is no way an early 260Z weighs in at 2700lb without Professor Klump in the driver's seat.
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I always fill the Z tank slowly. Have to do the same on my S2000, strangely enough.
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My first suggestion: don't use GVWR as a guide to curb weight unless you also have the maximum load capacity on hand (GVWR=Curb Weight + Max Load). An early 260Z weighs in at just over 2400lb, confirmed on actual scales and not internet numbers.
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It's currently in the stages of transforming it into an even wilder monster of a Z: My Dream LS7GTZ.......project underway - Page 30 - S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z - HybridZ
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Scion FR-S and Datsun 240Z - An Owner's Comparison
LeonV replied to Hardway's topic in Open Chit Chat
The car baselined at 145hp at the rear wheels and after a bit of tuning and high-octane gas, I had it at 220 with some headroom left. Low octane would probably be more in the 210whp range. That's a 65-75whp gain so you definitely feel it! I have to say though, bone stock (brake pads, Prius tires, and all) the car was a blast to drive on the track, as long as it wasn't as brake-heavy as Laguna. We bled the brakes and changed pads at Laguna because of how demanding it was on brakes. -
Scion FR-S and Datsun 240Z - An Owner's Comparison
LeonV replied to Hardway's topic in Open Chit Chat
Shameless plug: if you're looking for more power, keep an eye out on our soon-to-be released turbo-kit! WORKS Automotive Performance and Engineering POWER | PRECISION | PASSION I've driven the car on track in stock configuration as well as with the turbo kit. It definitely no longer feels underpowered and will keep WRXs and the like off your back on straightaways. Here's a video from Laguna where we were doing track testing of a prototype turbo kit. First lap was used to bring the new front tires up to temp and then the fun begins. It's a very fun and rewarding car to drive, especially with bald rear tires : -
I used a Walker Quiet-Flow. All I hear is glorious induction noise when I get on it.
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Call Isky: ISKY Racing Cams - Do It Right. Race with the Legend. Camshafts, Connecting Rods, Valve Springs, Lifters