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LeonV

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Everything posted by LeonV

  1. D'oh! I meant "hose" not "wire"...
  2. Wow, great buy! You're lucky to have such an original car. I wouldn't change a thing (besides those awful wire wheels ).
  3. Really? Is $13 too much for you to swallow for a Factory Service Manual specific to your car? Also, I don't understand how posting on a Z-specific forum about wiring in a Pontiac Trans-Am makes any sense, even though Steve managed to direct you to exactly what you need...
  4. FWIW, the 3-4 jump is substantial with the 4-speed/3.36 when compared to Euro/JDM market Zs. The other ratios aren't as different, but a little lower on the 5-speed cars. Maybe not a huge difference on paper, but definitely noticeable when driving back-to-back.
  5. Looking good! What size are your front tires, and do they rub the valence?
  6. The plug in the air cleaner is probably there because the air pump has been removed. It's the air pump intake. The wire with the screw in it should be connected to the vacuum advance module on the distributor. Right now, it seems like the vac advance is connected to manifold vacuum (wrong) although I can't see where the other end of the hose is. Regardless, it's clearly incorrect. You'll have to re-tune your idle RPM once the hose is properly connected.
  7. You're not gaining anything noticeable by removing emissions equipment. I don't get the logic of polluting way more just to get maybe 2-3hp, that is if your emissions equipment works. If you want peppier acceleration, install a 5-speed and at least 3.9 rear diff. A lightweight flywheel also helps and could be installed in conjunction with the transmission. No extra power is needed, torque multiplication and reduction of reciprocating weight does a better job of increasing acceleration than trying to squeeze out enough power to do the same. FWIW, USA-bound 240Zs got rather sluggish transmission and rear diff ratios. The 3.36 rear with a wide-ratio 4-speed is not a great complement to the engine. Europe and Japan were better off with standard lower-geared diffs and 5-speeds.
  8. Do you have any corroborating data or calculations to even remotely prove this, or is the statement pure conjecture?
  9. I love it! I'm a huge hatchback/wagon fan. Wouldn't mind an Audi S4 Avant (B6/B7) as a DD if it weren't for it's reliability issues and less than favorable fuel efficiency... Very cool project.
  10. Saw a very nice dark red 240Z with color-matched flares, rear spoiler, and possibly Watanabes on 19th Ave this morning. Nice Z!
  11. Most likely not. Do a compression test, that will tell you way more about the state of the head gasket and engine than a rusty cam. Adjust the valves first. I hope you've changed the oil. See my above post. If you want to use water, use it only temporarily and ONLY distilled water (i.e. not from the hose in your yard). Antifreeze has anti-corrosive properties and also helps lubricate the water pump. Measure it. Why is this info needed? Come to JCCS in September, I'll be there.
  12. Dead voltage regulator or alternator... FSM has test procedures, BTW.
  13. LeonV

    Noise!

    Rolling the windows down makes it worse, as that lowers the air pressure inside the cabin making it even easier for fumes to get in. Driving with windows up and fan on is a better choice. FWIW...
  14. I got my cam custom-ground by Isky, matching it to my engine and needs.
  15. No coolant? FYI, the block vent should be hooked up to a PCV valve.
  16. Any links or scans? I would love to see some of those photos.
  17. Frankly, it's still on standby but I've not had to use the distributor since finishing the MJLJ install. It's been about a year and probably a few thousand miles. The only reason I keep it around is for the funny comments and reactions from people who see the distributor without wires. "Waitaminute, how's that thing run without plug wires?" "Hopes and dreams, my friend..."
  18. No, that means you haven't warmed it up completely. Is the car not driveable?
  19. Completely agree. I HAD both but gave my Unisyn away as the Weber tool is magnitudes better.
  20. This is all well-known and clearly outlined info (ever check the FSM?). H means L24 (240Z) or L28 (280Z) and L means LHD (R is for RHD). Looking back, Steve's post RIGHT before yours has a clear description from Black Dragon...
  21. I enjoyed that in my MJLJ install. Went to the dyno and switched between 2 completely standalone ignition systems within a couple of minutes!
  22. I'd be happy to help. I've been itching to go ITB but that's been put-off as the triples have really grown on me. Who knows, I may find a good deal on throttle bodies and there goes that...
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