LeonV

Precisely.

They look very similar to early 300ZX (Z31) wheels.

My green 260Z has the same wheels but in much better shape and I'd sell them for less than half that price.

Nice job, it's a great feeling! I still have all 4 pins that I've pulled (so far).

I have a choke cable assembly from a 3/71, let me know what length you need and I can measure to see if it'll work.

You need to remove the metal sleeve before installing urethane bushings. Look about halfway down the page: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/rearend/index.html With that said, later control arms were beefier than the 240Z ones (bushings are interchangeable).

I'm with Phil, my filtration setup is similar. There are plenty of housings on the market that cover the front of the carb and can also support air horns, if that's what you're worried about.

The thing is, and I mentioned it earlier, the temperature gauge reports to the sensor in the thermostat housing. We have no idea what's going on at the back of the head. Temp can be OK in the front, but tens of degrees higher in the back. Tony D and Jeff P did some engine dyno testing, monitoring temps front and back among other things, and posted results in that HybridZ thread. This is also why most stress-related head gasket failures seem to be at cylinder 5.

Sure is. But these bars are thick spring steel, clearly designed to prevent fatigue failures. A stress concentration would do it though, whether it's a crack or imperfections in the metal. Magnafluxing might not be a bad idea if it will see "heavy" usage...

Ok, I meant if it's on HOT with the FLOOR/DEFROST still selected, i.e. flapper open. Sounds good.

Damn, that's quite a failure, complete fracture of the m-bar. That's a pretty thick piece of spring steel (strong stuff). I had no idea it was a somewhat common occurrence (on R200 installs).

Jeebus, how much torque is your engine making??? If your mustach bar is broken, all sorts of torsional/bending loads will now be imparted on the front diff mount and can cause that to fail too. I don't know if a slow drive home will do it, but it might depending on how badly damaged the mustache bar is. If you have AAA or something similar, I'd just tow it home. I still can't believe your m-bar failed. Please upload pics when you get a chance.

Got a picture? Your description is a bit confusing. Sounds like an impressive failure. You can also refer to this: Datsun 240Z/260Z/280Z Rear Suspension (Strut, Shock Absorber & Transverse Link)

Possibly Minilite or a replica?

Great info, thanks! I've got 6x 47605.009 springs on order from Spruell Motorsports. Spruell charges $2.50 a piece whereas Pierce was $9 a pop when I called them earlier today. I still use the stock pedal linkage in the orange Z but the green one will be using a cable throttle. Hopefully, I can resolve the issue with both as painlessly as possible! Blue, if I'm not mistaken, it may have been you who clued us in on the springs! I remember looking at this site before, probably from a link you gave: webrpump

If you're thinking of bypassing the thermostat, that hose from the back of the head is in no way required to go to the top of the thermo housing! For example, you can have it go straight into the upper rad hose, using a hose coupler with a radially-located fitting for the smaller hose. Basically, slice the upper rad hose in half and figure out a way to incorporate that hose from the back of the head. Or, just tap right into the top of the radiator...

Just to clarify, what is your current setup, ZK? i.e. - Throttle cable actuation - Throttle return springs: 47605.009 - Any external return springs? Did you end up using those new UK throttle levers? Thanks!

Fantastic! Now go and make sure those throttles open all the way and unleash the beast. This is an issue that plagues a lot of triple-carb guys, and I suspect it is a huge part of why many people that try them don't like them. It sucks to come to a stoplight with a 1500rpm idle and having a bunch of corny return springs littered around the engine bay. Like Captain said, it really is about the little things. Big thumbs up.

Looks good! Good times! There won't be as much heat rejected with the control lever on HOT and the fan off, but there is still air going through the core (it's not stagnant). The fan being off doesn't mean zero airflow. It's a lot easier to reject heat through a radiator than it is a rubber hose. Also, I think there's a lot more resistance to flow when the coolant has to snake through the heater core as well as past the control valve, than just a short hose loop. It's definitely not negligible. In the bigger picture, whether you have a heater or a loop, the engine will be OK in normal street driving. I haven't run through the calculations, but I'd like to think that the engineers sized things correctly, or as best as they could. It's when engine demands are increased that a loop from the head to the WP inlet will have a detrimental effect (dangerously unstable temps at back of head).

Very nice, thanks! Yes, your tranny looks to be a late-ZX unit (speedo bolt at 6 o'clock position, one ear below shifter). It has close gear ratios perfect for pairing with lower-geared (numerically higher) rear diffs.

Thanks guys, the replies are all of great help! I'm still curious if that B-box is something more than a stock 5-speed...

Good stuff, thanks! Any info on the numbers in the second pic? Does yours have those? I saw pics of a comp tranny and it had very similar markings, and I'm unsure if they're shared with other early 5-speeds. The problem is that I sold this trans recently and am now thinking that I made a huge mistake!

Your attachment doesn't work on my end. The manual has it right. That thermostat ensures that coolant over 180deg does not flow through the manifold. That's saying the same thing, really.

Thanks Chas. The thing is, this box shows signs of being an early 280Z box with a few things that are different: the shifter ears and missing access cover. Plus, like I said, it was mentioned that it has Porsche-style syncros which I assume they mean steel/servo syncros that are found in the comp boxes. I have a couple of late-ZX boxes lying around to compare to, but I haven't had a chance to examine early type-B 5-speeds.

I don't remember if I've actually started a thread on here before but I need some help in identifying a couple of transmissions. First up, is a type-B 5-speed. I was told by the PO, who was told by someone else that it has Porsche-type (servo) syncros (maybe they meant just 5th gear?). Any way to find out what kind of trans this is short of opening it up? I thought it was a plain-jane 280Z 5-speed since it has the two ears under the shifter and the speed gear bolt is at 12 o'clock, but it "looks" to have the later shifter ears and is missing the top access cover that Marc describes at the bottom of his page: gearing2 Notice the number underneath the shifter ears. Next up, is a type-A 5-speed. I don't know whether it's a Roadster trans converted to work on a Z, a euro trans, or something else. It seems as though the Roadster 5-speeds (FS5C71-A/FS5W71-A) had that driveshaft flange but I'm unsure whether that was shared by other type-B trannies. Any identifying features on this guy? I did read that Roadster trannies are "weaker" but I don't know how much merit that has. I've searched quite a bit and did find some great info posted by guys like Carl B., Alan T., and Marc Sayer. Thanks all.