LeonV

The carbs are worth some by themselves, I was only considering the long-block/trans. The carbs would bring in an extra $150 or so, if they need a rebuild.

Anywhere from free to a couple hundred bucks if you're lucky.

FWIW, the factory steering column IS collapsable.

Almost bought it until I was told that it'll only fit early cars with the further-back shifter hole. That, and finding a drive-shaft might prove difficult. Good luck!

Was this the 5-speed in Union City?

Looking good! That brace should tighten up the front.

FWIW, I took some measuring tape to my choke cables this morning. I forgot to bring my notes to work so I'll have to go off of memory. My early 260Z choke cables were shorter than my 3/71 240Z cables. Measurements were taken from the flange that the rubber sheath butts up against, not the lever. Early 260Z: ~60"/54" (longer cable/shorter cable) 3/71 240Z: ~65"/59" So about a 5" difference between the two. Note: measurements are approximations. I used measuring tape and the cables were not perfectly straight.

I blew it, had a busy day yesterday and forgot to check. I already put a note in my phone to do so tonight. Wade makes a good point, and I was going to say the same. Trial fit, then cut. I'll measure the lengths and report them here, regardless.

Get over itself? The thing is, Nissan doesn't need to do anything. Are you suggesting Nissan tools up for tiny production runs of parts for cars they made 40 years ago? That's never going to happen. It's all about the market. Compare the production numbers of Mustangs to the S30 and you'll have the answer of why they're better supported. With that said, there are reproductions being made for plenty of Z parts, just look at MSA's site. I don't think Nissan is stopping anyone. I also don't think a $200 shift knob on ebay keeps people away from these cars. Frankly, the cheap price of entry into the Z-world reflects the opposite and thus the Z populace generally seems notoriously cheap (compared to other vintage car owners). I wouldn't mind prices of Z parts going up at all, it'll make my hoard more valuable.

I will do my best to remember to check it out tonight!

Did you mean mid-80s? Cool stuff!

Great info Arne! We seem to be getting a ton of "ID this wheel please" posts, maybe we should consolidate it into one thread?

Ha, that's right! They do look similar to early C4 Vette wheels:

The VIA and JWL markings have nothing to do with the manufacturer, they're basically certification labels. JWL standard - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia My bet is these are some type of OEM Nissan wheel, probably from the '80s.

Precisely.

They look very similar to early 300ZX (Z31) wheels.

My green 260Z has the same wheels but in much better shape and I'd sell them for less than half that price.

Nice job, it's a great feeling! I still have all 4 pins that I've pulled (so far).

I have a choke cable assembly from a 3/71, let me know what length you need and I can measure to see if it'll work.

You need to remove the metal sleeve before installing urethane bushings. Look about halfway down the page: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/rearend/index.html With that said, later control arms were beefier than the 240Z ones (bushings are interchangeable).

I'm with Phil, my filtration setup is similar. There are plenty of housings on the market that cover the front of the carb and can also support air horns, if that's what you're worried about.

The thing is, and I mentioned it earlier, the temperature gauge reports to the sensor in the thermostat housing. We have no idea what's going on at the back of the head. Temp can be OK in the front, but tens of degrees higher in the back. Tony D and Jeff P did some engine dyno testing, monitoring temps front and back among other things, and posted results in that HybridZ thread. This is also why most stress-related head gasket failures seem to be at cylinder 5.

Sure is. But these bars are thick spring steel, clearly designed to prevent fatigue failures. A stress concentration would do it though, whether it's a crack or imperfections in the metal. Magnafluxing might not be a bad idea if it will see "heavy" usage...

Ok, I meant if it's on HOT with the FLOOR/DEFROST still selected, i.e. flapper open. Sounds good.

Damn, that's quite a failure, complete fracture of the m-bar. That's a pretty thick piece of spring steel (strong stuff). I had no idea it was a somewhat common occurrence (on R200 installs).