LeonV

Your attachment doesn't work on my end. The manual has it right. That thermostat ensures that coolant over 180deg does not flow through the manifold. That's saying the same thing, really.

Thanks Chas. The thing is, this box shows signs of being an early 280Z box with a few things that are different: the shifter ears and missing access cover. Plus, like I said, it was mentioned that it has Porsche-style syncros which I assume they mean steel/servo syncros that are found in the comp boxes. I have a couple of late-ZX boxes lying around to compare to, but I haven't had a chance to examine early type-B 5-speeds.

I don't remember if I've actually started a thread on here before but I need some help in identifying a couple of transmissions. First up, is a type-B 5-speed. I was told by the PO, who was told by someone else that it has Porsche-type (servo) syncros (maybe they meant just 5th gear?). Any way to find out what kind of trans this is short of opening it up? I thought it was a plain-jane 280Z 5-speed since it has the two ears under the shifter and the speed gear bolt is at 12 o'clock, but it "looks" to have the later shifter ears and is missing the top access cover that Marc describes at the bottom of his page: gearing2 Notice the number underneath the shifter ears. Next up, is a type-A 5-speed. I don't know whether it's a Roadster trans converted to work on a Z, a euro trans, or something else. It seems as though the Roadster 5-speeds (FS5C71-A/FS5W71-A) had that driveshaft flange but I'm unsure whether that was shared by other type-B trannies. Any identifying features on this guy? I did read that Roadster trannies are "weaker" but I don't know how much merit that has. I've searched quite a bit and did find some great info posted by guys like Carl B., Alan T., and Marc Sayer. Thanks all.

Nice work. Have you tried adjusting the throttle pedal stop to see if you can get some extra travel or is it maxed out already?

FWIW, the rear wheels on Zs are not centered in the wheel well opening. Take a look at any side-profile. Here's a random pic I found in a quick google search:

It doesn't matter whether the thermostat is open or closed, it is at higher pressure that the water-pump inlet which is the lowest pressure point in the system. This means that everything "wants" to flow back to the water pump inlet. Pressure at the water pump inlet will be less than at the thermo housing, thus flow goes towards the WP inlet. Good point, and I don't know either. This is why I suggested that routing that line from the back of the head to the top of the thermo housing (or beyond) would be a better idea, if even head cooling is the goal. Good question. There are two things going on here: (1) even with the heater valve fully open, there is still some added restriction in the valve and core which makes it a little harder for coolant to bypass the radiator and (2) the heater core itself is a radiator. When set to fully hot, the coolant will slough heat through the core, which drops coolant temps before going back to the WP inlet. I remember going on family trips in a Chevy Lumina that we had for a little while. The cooling system in that car was a joke (heads sat above the top of radiator) and my dad did both head gaskets at one point. When taking grades in the summer heat on the way to Yosemite, he'd turn the heater to full hot and blast the interior fan... in 100deg weather. Oh the good ol' days!

Good effort. Your arrows are a little funky in Figure 1-3, the carb water loop should flow the opposite direction since the lower thermostat housing is a high pressure area and the water pump inlet is low pressure. Figure 3-4 aid in quicker warmup but to the detriment of out-of-control coolant temps at the back of the head. It absolutely does not equalize temperatures! It's a huge short-circuit for hot coolant to take right back to the water pump inlet, bypassing the radiator. This is hard to notice because our temp gauge is at the thermostat housing. Figure 5 does nothing to improve cold-start (closed thermostat) circulation. It may slightly aid in equalizing temps at the back of the head. Routing to the top of the thermo housing (bypassing thermostat) would be more beneficial. However, this would also have to be spec'd as to not completely shunt the thermostat (maintain some restriction in the line).

Wow, I would fly down to SD and buy that Z if I didn't already have 2 sitting in my garage... Looks like it's in fantastic shape and I love the white/red as well! If there truly is no rust, I would say $10-15k is a safe bet. Anything over is icing on the cake. Ebay may be a good idea in this case.

Sweet setup!

Good stuff guys, sounds like I need to place an order on these too...

Damn, that's a great idea! EDIT: I have mine blocked off with BSPT plugs, don't remember the size though. I got them from McMaster.

Well, if the coil wasn't sending spark to the distributor (correct?), I'd start by checking simple things before messing with the module. In other words, quick volt & ohm check on the coil to ensure the primary and secondary windings are OK and that there is close-to battery voltage present at coil +. Check for battery voltage at module as well. Then check the triggering mechanism: reluctor, pickup coil, etc. assuming that the ignition system is indeed similar to the electronic ones found in Zs.

No, the exhaust valve will be a problem, on a stock-bore L24. Refer to my above post.

Yes, the L26 shares bore diameter with the L24, but the L26 is notched from the factory for exhaust valve clearance! I thought the same as you Arne, before I was corrected on this.

Ha, I'm in the same dilemma, Rob! I've yet to cc the head though so I don't know the exact CR.

Check to see whether the coil is sending a spark to the distributor. If not, there's an issue with spark signaling, i.e. triggering mechanism within distributor or the ignition module itself. Sounds like it was a hot-start issue, so it may be an electrical connection failing from heat.

Pretty sure brand new ones are less than $1k. e.g. 15x7 Panasport FZ Street Wheel With that said, rubbing depends on the tires (sidewall height & section width), not the rims.

We forgot the ANAESTHETIC!

Yes, please!

So... do you plan to take some measurements on the chassis then? Take it to a shop that can do it for you?

Well don't I feel silly now...

Because it shouldn't leak as designed, as you can see in the drawings that you provided. If it's leaking, something's wrong. That other washer is very likely used for load distribution, NOT sealing pressurized hydraulic fluid.

Sounds like the fitting is either undertorqued or overtorqued/damaged. Please don't use a washer/gasket to seal it.

As I mentioned earlier, to only get shrugged off...

Nope.