LeonV
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Everything posted by LeonV
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I've been using Mobil1 10W-30 full synthetic with no issues for 2.5 years.
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A combo of dead ball-joints, dead (or missing) upper strut bearing, and possible steering rack issue can cause this. Did you take a look underneath and do a quick check to see if something is binding?
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Nope. It's geared just right (amazing gearbox BTW) and I didn't buy the car to drag race.
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Suspension not so stiff when changing gears, could use recommendation
LeonV replied to Wade's topic in Suspension & Steering
Something is drastically wrong in your method, especially if you're referring to the 5-slot mags in your avatar. (1) Measure rim width (measure it, don't use the rated width) (2) Divide by 2 to find wheel centerline (3) Measure from the back face of the wheel to the hub mounting surface (backspacing) (4) Subtract (3) from (2) And you're done. -
Seconded, although the Boxster is a very fun car. I've had thoughts of getting a Cayman, but the S2000 really feels like plenty already. With a hardtop, the S is even kind-of civil on the freeway. I wouldn't mind driving a Cayman, but I'm scared it'll make me want one! The only other car I really drool over is the first-gen BMW M Coupe. I almost got one instead of the S2000, but reliability concerns drove me away. I love the ride, performance, and looks though! Well, also maybe a 911 GT3 at some (financially doable) point.
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Saw a green 280Z in great shape on 101 this morning, in Petaluma.
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The 260Z tach is not the most reliable unit, so-to-say. Mine was initlally dead because of some dreadful PO wiring (caused a dead short when wiring in a starter button). After getting the wiring right it came back to life but intermittently, and shortly therafter completely stopped working. A 280Z tach did the trick (wiring is the same but unit is more reliable). Faceplates can be switched between units if you're concerned about keeping that correct.
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Suspension not so stiff when changing gears, could use recommendation
LeonV replied to Wade's topic in Suspension & Steering
Agreed, mistmatched wheels/tires are a big no-no... -
Don't be so sure, the Kleenspeed EV-X11 sounds pretty damn awesome at 120mph... You would never need to use the clutch for take-offs in an electric car. Electric motors don't idle, hence there is no need to decouple the engine from the drivetrain when taking off.
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Steve, if I'm in the area I will be sure to let you know!
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Wow, absolutely gorgeous. Fantastic work! We need a video of that thing once you get it tuned up!
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Cool! I'll have to leave some room on the calendar.
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Nice interior! Looks like someone did adapt the earlier round-top SUs. It would be awesome to see an all-original 260Z (flat tops and everything) but for functionality the round tops work just fine.
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Welcome! Beautiful early 260Z you have there, they're rare to see in such nice, and very original original shape. Let's see some interior and engine bay shots!
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Awesome, thank you Mike!
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Hey guys, looks like I need some help from the early-Z gurus. Anybody recognize this tray? Thanks!
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Good to hear!
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Damn, that's some crazy footage. In video #6, the narrator says someone was exiting through that door when the shockwave came through, and severed a guy's finger...
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Welcome and I look forward to meeting you sometime! Bay Area 260Zs, unite! Let's see some pics of the Z, and Celica and E30 M3 for that matter.
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Dry torque specs don't account for anti-sieze, so using it will definitely require a smaller torque value when compared to a dry torque spec. Ideally, the conditions for the torque spec are mentioned (dry, lubricated, etc.). Most of the torque felt at the wrench is friction, with maybe 10-15% accounting for actual bolt strain. By drastically reducing friction, the bolt will either yield (losing preload) or break. Here's a great site on this topic, parroted from Tony D: Information related to bolted joints
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I haven't felt the need to lubricate my red poly bushings in the 2 years I've been using them. The car will feel a lot tighter with the PU bushings. Use rubber on the TC rods if you're worried about harshness.
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Suspension rebuilding and bushing upgrades: Blue's Tech Tips
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Just a tad... I'll give you availability and price! Those are the only two upsides to the iron drums.
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Drum deformation under braking. Seriously? Where do you come up with this stuff? FWIW, iron drums degrade performance in almost every sense: not only are they heavier but they're worse at dissipating heat than their aluminum counterparts.
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In what sense are iron drums an improvement over aluminum?
