LeonV

FWIW, your 98 octane (RON) is equivalent to our 93 octane (AKI).

Agreed. You will not find an "exceptional" Z for $2k. It may look great, but will likely have some (i.e. a lot) of serious flaws. If not, you got lucky.

Offset/eccentric bushings

The perfect time for Megajolt!!!

I've heard they're NLA but was hoping there was still a way to get new ones. They fill out the engine bay pretty nicely! I'm a header hoarder though... I really considered buying a slightly used Stahl that someone was selling on HZ a while back. If you're really patient and diligent in searching, something will pop up.

I hope you torqued all suspension pieces with the car on the ground and loaded, as the FSM describes. Otherwise, put it back in the air (make sure you have the same type of bushing left and right), loosen and snug suspension fasteners, drop it down, load it up, and torque to spec.

What's your budget?

BTW, I got another Z and another set of Webers, 45s this time (thanks to "theguppies" for the tip)! We'll see if I can get an engine rebuilt before the next tuning day... I'm keeping the orange one as well, so I'm ready to roar either way!

Good move.

Glancing upon the rusty Z, Camelot and his men retreated in horror...

Just use a stock clutch. I'll be using a stock Exedy disk (and pressure plate) with both the Fidanza and Tilton flywheels.

That is a great line!

Then don't do either of those. Give it a real tune-up and drive. Compression ratio: it's one of those things that guys love to put on a pedestal. Don't worry if compression is 8.5:1 or 9.5:1, it's not going to matter much in the end if you don't design the system with everything in mind, not just that oh-so magical compression ratio.

The damper fluid has some control over throttle transitions. If you're going lean on transition, the fluid is too light. Vice-versa for too rich. That's assuming everything else is working properly. Before really tuning the carbs, you have to make sure your ignition is spot on, your valves are properly adjusted, compression is relatively even across cylinders, and NO vacuum leaks. Vac leaks can easily be checked by spraying starting fluid (or other volatile substances) in suspect areas. If idle quality noticeably changes when you spray a certain area, then there is a vac leak there. Usual disclaimer: don't set yourself on fire and be careful about spraying chemicals on paint.

I don't know if the Mikunis are as open to Keith's designs as the Webers are. A couple of members from this site did some testing but I'm unsure whether there was a final result?

...and into the books of the Department of Redundancy Department.

Do you have oil in the SU domes? Check for vac leaks?

John Coffey is an admin at HZ and a member here. If I were you, I would also try to send another email to HZ.

Not quite. The octane rating used in the US during the '70s was RON (Research Octane Number). There is another method of determining octane rating called the Motor Octane Rating (MON) which is a more stringent test, i.e. MON is always lower than RON. Today we use AKI (Anti-Knock Index) which is simply the average of RON and MON. 91 RON is equivalent to 87 AKI. With that said, I'm not sure where you got the 96 octane number. The 1973 FSM (I surmise your Z is a '73) recommends 87 AKI/91 RON on page GI-3. With combos different from stock, recommendations are thrown out the window and you use what works, e.g. set timing on the dyno while making sure there is no knock.

Excellent, that's a very good spot for the aux return spring.

The owner's manual recommends the modern-day equivalent of 87 AKI, no need to use premium unless the engine is modified in a way as to require it.

The Uni-syn is junk compared to the Weber SK tool. I got mine online for about $35.

Fantastic pictures and info! Thank you Alan and Takeuchi-san for sharing.

Nobody said it was advertised at $1k... It was mentioned that it's a good deal for a sub-1000 serial number. EDIT: I do see tlorber's post is not worded very well and I'm not sure which he means, VIN or price.

Progressing nicely!