LeonV

Ah, bummer. Let me know next time you're in the area, always good to meet like-minded people. I'll let you know if I can arrange pickup!

Jim, I'd love to take that off your hands but shipping would be a killer. Although, I do know some people that go between Calgary and SF once in a while...

Nice find! I have the same one although it has some battle scars. Not a lot of them around, especially NOS!

You are correct, thanks for catching that. Everything else I said stands. ?

Did it ever run with the 280Z tach installed? How did you wire it in? The coil + BW wire runs through the tachometer and if you didn't bridge that when installing the 280Z tach, you will not have power to the coil.

PSI is a unit of pressure, not load. Load would be the pressure multiplied by the area that the pressure pushes on. Along similar lines, the gas charge is a pressure inside the damper, not a spring rate. The force exerted by the gas charge, and thus spring rate, depends on the piston damper rod size and pressure. This can be measured but you need to do some math if it's done using a hydraulic press, which I imagine is how that machine shop did it. For example: F=P/A (pressure measured in press / area of press piston) k=F/x (the above force is calculated at two positions around center of damper travel, difference in force / difference in damper travel = effective spring rate)

It's a center-in, offset-out 2.5" muffler. I'll have a look next time I'm under the car which should hopefully be soon. The exhaust was done about five years ago so I may struggle to dig up a part number. A friend (@v12horse) recently had a shop put in a very similar system and may be able to contribute. Another buddy just put in some version of a Hush Thrush and while not as quiet as the Walker, it was suitable for him. I don't have any actual sound level data on these but the Walker is as quiet as it gets, I imagine. I was looking for an in-car video I had but couldn't find it.

I told my exhaust shop that I wanted it as quiet as possible without sacrificing much performance. The system is a modified MSA 2.5" exhaust with a center resonator and a Walker Quiet Flow out back. It's perfect in the sense that it does exactly what I want it to do, keeps things quiet on long drives and nothing but intake roar when the mains come in.

I had the same wheels years ago and bought some "mag-style" lug nuts from O'Reilly (Kragen at the time). They fit perfectly.

If you're limiting yourself to just those sizes listed, 15's are out of the picture unless you'll be driving n the snow. Taking the 205/55-16 size as an example, sounds like your use-case falls somewhere into the max/ultra high performance summer category. Your comment about "over-tiring" a car tells me you like to go beyond the limit but like for that limit to be low enough that it can be exceeded without "excessive provocation". Based on experience, good choices are the Firestone Indy 500, BFG SC2, and Dunlop DZ102. All have nice road manners and should match well with your setup and use-case. I run 225/50-16 Bridgestone RE-11A rubber (discontinued, unfortunately) which have fantastic grip but take commitment to get the car loose. Tirerack does a pretty good job of reviewing tires, I'd recommend watching/reading when available.

Seems somebody failed Chemistry class...

If you have camber plates and aftermarket air dam, they should work. Otherwise, I agree that they'll likely rub. Completely understand your dilemma but I'd prefer to keep these as a set. I won't have any use for the tires once the wheels are gone. Feel free to come by if you're ever in the SF area for a test fit if you're still interested.

Hey Rob, I'm planning to get rid of my nearly-new 16X7 Panasports soon, I just haven't bothered to make a for sale post yet. They come with 225/50-16 Bridgestone RE11-A rubber with tons of life left. Hard to say whether they'll rub as it's car-dependent. I have coilovers and trimmed fender lips and front valence. Originally paid $1637 for the wheel and tire combo. I can do $1200 if you or anyone else is interested. Just bought a set of Wats so I'll have to reluctantly get rid of these. (That bottom photo is over-exposed, they're silver and not white, as seen in the first shot)

Sounds like you're slamming into your bumpstops, did you have a look at them when you disassembled? We had a similar problem with my friend's Z, the bumpstop had disintegrated after 40 miles. I bet your ride will improve if you preload your springs by an inch and drop your shock body by an inch to maintain ride height.

The S2000 is one of the best-looking cars ever made IMO. Both interior and exterior are purposeful yet minimalistic. The proportions are phenomenal. I will say the AP2 is a notably better looker from the factory than the AP1, especially with the factory hardtop. You got it right on the engineering. I can't think of another sports car that can rev to 9k for 300k miles and not break a sweat. Not to mention the telepathic chassis. The reason they don't go for more money is that they don't have a fancy badge on them. And I'm fine with that, maybe I can still own an NSX one day. ?

Nice find Jim! I have one on my Z, it came with it. It's cracked in the center and chipped on the side. I've been curious if I'd ever run into one. Wish I were in Canada, I imagine shipping would be a killer.

Unless Stance-USA struts have managed to defy the laws of physics, everything I've said is true. Here's how it actually works, with some math to prove it: Assume a corner weight of 600lb. Old springs were 224lb/in (4k), new springs are 168 lb/in (3k). 600/224 = 2.7 inches of spring compression 600/168 = 3.6 inches of spring compression Therefore, the car will sit about an inch lower (accounting for motion ratio) AND the damper rod will lose 0.9" of jounce travel due to the spring compressing more. There are two solutions to getting ride height back. The first is to simply thread the damper body up by an inch. This works to get ride height back but you're still missing 0.9" of bump travel. Assuming damper travel was set correctly in the first place, you'll want that jounce travel back. Therefore, I suggest getting your travel back to where it was by preloading the spring by 0.9" (using a spring compressor makes this easy). This accomplishes both getting your ride height AND damper travel back. I've never corner balanced a car that has separate height and preload adjustments with spring preload. That's best done via damper body adjustment because preload changes where the damper sits at nominal height, as you can see from this exercise. In summary, preload adjustment sets damper position and damper body adjustment takes care of ride height and corner balance. It doesn't matter whether the metal bits were supplied by Stance, or BC, or Ohlins. It all works the same, according to the laws of physics. Removing from the bottom is not difficult and probably faster and easier than through the top, a friend of mine did it this way to not mess with the top nut and assorted hardware.

Yes, swapping springs that way is the easiest way to do it. You may have to disconnect your ARB endlinks. The new spring is an inch longer so the perch will indeed be an inch lower but, assuming 600lb corner weight, the car will drop approximately by another inch. Therefore, the damper body will need to move up to maintain ride height. Another effect of the softer spring is that you will be taking away an inch of bump travel. This may or may not be ok, depending on where your damper is currently. This can be adjusted via spring preload, e.g. one inch of spring preload will raise the car an inch and gain one inch of bump travel (assuming you haven't run out of travel).

All 260Zs got the updated steering rack and need the 280Z bushes, I had to do so on my old 9/73 260Z. Late 260Zs were manufactured from 9/74-12/74, the switchover to the 280Z occurred sometime in 12/74.

I've never held any 280Z struts but looks like you got your answer. My early 260Z struts were the same diameter as the 240Z.

Your assumptions are correct:

Agreed with the above.

Unless your Z has 5-lug hubs, no.

It's likely to do with wanting the car to sit level visually, given unequal corner weights. When people see cars sitting wonky, they may think something's wrong...

Is your companion flange bent or have some sort of damage that causes physical rubbing on the housing? I had a similar issue but with the stub axle itself.