LeonV

Lucky you!

Thanks for the heads up on the crimper! I've been looking for one just like that, that doesn't cost hundreds of dollars.

It's a great tool, but might take a little practice to use. Dip it in and out of the fuel a few times and look inside the center of the PC tube. You'll get the hang of it quickly, it's an awesome tool!

The only tough part was getting the ignition switch off the steering column. It required a hammer and chisel (screwdriver in this case) to remove the smooth-headed screws.

I remember seeing a Z as a kid and thinking the vertical muffler placement was "cool", since I'd never seen that before.

Had this happen to me before. I ended up removing the ignition switch from the steering column, partially taking it apart and turning it from the back. I probably cleaned and lubed it too. Hasn't happened since.

Right, an intake and/or header can be tuned for any rpm you want, length depends on which rpm and harmonic you're shooting for (usually 3rd because of packaging limitations). A longer manifold will be "tuned" at lower rpm and a shorter manifold at higher rpm. The bandwidth and magnitude can be altered by varying taper. This can include built-in taper and/or air horns. In the case of a header, "steps" are also sometimes used. Having different cylinders hitting resonance at different times is not buying you (as) much. I am. Most carbs have circuits, which can be tuned individually and somewhat independently (e.g. idle circuit doesn't really affect WOT main circuit). There is no reason that a carb can't maximize mpg and power to its utmost potential, unless something went terribly wrong with that carb's design. If you're interested, I've made a few somewhat in-depth posts on intake and exhaust runner design: Intake Exhaust

Mic the bores to know for sure, don't go off of stampings.

Saw a nice, blue 240Z (looked to be lowered and had slot mags) on 101S heading into SF, gave a thumbs up on the approach to the GG Bridge!

Sure, as I've said, it "works". While you may understand the ramifications, others just don't. However, I'd be surprised if there was much of a positive resonance effect with that manifold. With the runners having different lengths, resonance will happen at various engine speeds when looking at different cylinders. This means that while 2 and 5 are in resonance, 1 and 6 are already past the peak and 3 and 4 are coming up to it. FWIW, you can tune pretty much any system for fuel economy at part-throttle and a powerful top end, it's not unique to 4-barrels. With that said, I'm hoping my next major project will be a V8 with ITBs. 1UZ looks tasty...

FWIW, you should be seeing your valves tighten up as you go, as the valves wear into their seats. That wear is high in the first few thousand miles, hence the need to check them often on a fresh engine.

Excellent, gotta love that feeling!

The air corrector should not be used to correct upper rpm mixture, that is primarily the main jet's job. Enlarging the air corrector will affect the transition to the mains (larger AC makes mains come in later, increased potential for flat spot). The AFR curve at WOT is controlled by the emulsion tube/main choke combo. The "right" combo will yield a flat curve.

That would give you a -70mm offset!!!

The absolute best you can do in terms of intake design is a straight shot into the valve, especially for a wet runner design such as any carburated manifold. *These images are not mine.

You have a 280Z, and hence, electronic ignition. There is no need for the Pertronix unit. Not sure what you mean with the "timing accuracy" statement. That can be checked with a timing gun. The only real upgrade you can make is going to a programmable, crank-triggered system, such as EDIS. That can be controlled by something like Megasquirt or Megajolt. My EDIS system cost me around $400, best money I've ever spent on the ignition system. If you don't want to commit to that, just make sure your current system is in good order.

Backspacing is what's critical in clearing struts. Offset will affect wheel bearing loading. Ideally, you want the center of your contact patch to be between the inner and outer wheel bearings. Otherwise, you'll be putting a cantilevered load on the bearings and wearing them out faster.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/57565-rota-rbrb-r-4x1143-17-z-offset-wheels/

HybridZ has all the info you need. Make sure to take full advantage of the search feature. There are 17" wheels available from Rota specifically spec'd for the Z that fit your goals. Offset simply describes the location of the mounting surface of the wheel to the center of the wheel. A negative offset means that the mounting surface is moved away from the face of the wheel and a positive offset moves the mounting surface towards the face of the wheel.

If you're having trouble with fouling plugs on your 280Z, something is wrong with your car.

Ok. That's not a good thing. It "works", but it doesn't mean there isn't something better...

Cool, I'm thinking I could pick one up and check it with an indicator using the EDM table at work.

I'm thinking the same thing.

Good idea!

Looks like 903 Blue: http://zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/index.html