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LeonV

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Everything posted by LeonV

  1. LeonV
    I do! Brand new and unused. I keep thinking I'll install them, but it hasn't happened...
  2. LeonV
    I'm with John, although I'll go with the VIN stamped into the body as the ultimate say. And I'll also second everything Alan has contributed. Everything else is as fluffy as a 9th grader's English paper.
  3. LeonV
    The rear manifold stud is the manufacturer-deemed rear lifting point. I don't understand why there should be any hesitation to use it.
  4. LeonV
    A caliper, pen, paper and 10 minutes should do it.
  5. LeonV
    EXACTLY! Triples have dedicated runners to each cylinder. This is an inherent advantage over SUs because of better mixture distribution between cylinders and a stronger signal for resonance (harmonic) intake tuning. There are also less pumping losses because of the fixed venturi design, so there are performance benefits to Webers outside of WOT operation. Correctly tuned, they will get better fuel mileage as well.
  6. LeonV
    The combustion forces on the head are magnitudes greater than the static weight of the engine. Each head bolt can literally support tons, let along a few hundred pounds.
  7. LeonV
    Look under your car and it will be clear.
  8. LeonV
    Properly tuned, triples will always make more power than SUs. It has been done, thousands of times. If you're looking for dyno results, search hybridz.org.
  9. LeonV
    It's easy if it already has a US title. If not, it will be a little tougher. Did you import the car yourself or buy it from a US owner?
  10. LeonV
    Glenn made a good list. On a car that's been sitting that long, assume all rubber is dried out. This means hoses, bushings, and hydraulic seals (brake & clutch master, clutch slave, wheel cylinders, calipers) need to be replaced/rebuilt.
  11. LeonV
    The alternator pully does the tensioning. There is no dedicated belt tensioner on the L-series.
  12. LeonV
    I concede!
  13. LeonV
    You should see my refrigerator...
  14. LeonV
    Nice write-up, Wade!
  15. LeonV

    Le Mans Classic 2012

    LeonV replied to Lazeum's topic in RACING

    Great pics, I need to get out there someday!
  16. LeonV
    I don't know, but the ebay Champion that I got is a 2 row.
  17. LeonV
    I've had more than a few words with that pin. Had to use long pliers to (blindly) get it in there. Not fun.
  18. LeonV
    I isolated my Aluminum radiator using nylon washers from the local hardware store. Cools better than the stock one with a hole in it...
  19. LeonV
    Music? The only music we should hear is the straight-six symphony!
  20. LeonV
    No problem! Just make sure you know which octane rating the manual is giving you! It can be RON (Research Octane Number), MON (Motor Octane Number), or AKI (Anti-Knock Index). RON and MON are experimentally determined using test engines, with MON being a more stringent test. Pumps in the US use the AKI rating which is the average between the two, whereas Australia and Europe use RON. RON will always be higher than MON, and what you see at US pumps is the average of the two. Just make sure you know which rating the manual is going by. FWIW, Turbocharged engines typically require higher octane fuel, but if the manual says 91 RON then 87 AKI is just fine.
  21. LeonV
    No, there will not be a 20hp gain, nor does it affect WOT operation. Vacuum does not "climb" at higher rpm. At WOT, there is no manifold vacuum, it's completely open to the atmosphere (besides intake pressure drops). I agree with Zed Head's sentiments, you'll notice some gain in part-throttle conditions but that's about it. Fuel economy should slightly increase. Put a timing light on it and test, it's not that hard.
  22. LeonV
    One must also realize that diluting gasoline with alcohol will drop the stoichometric mixture point. "Pure" gasoline is 14.7, while E10 is ~14.2. As alcohol content increases, AFR must be enriched. The chemical makeup of ethanol has a hydroxyl group (-OH) which oxygenates the fuel, thus requiring you to dump in more fuel when compared to using "pure" gasoline.
  23. LeonV
    Careful with tightening to what feels right. I did that the first time around and had a strong driveline vibration from loose driveshaft bolts. The second time around I still didn't use a torque wrench, but tightened them as much as I could with an open end wrench. All is good now.
  24. LeonV
    FWIW, I would set the cam "straight up" and go from there. Technically, you can start from anywhere, but straight up is as good a place as any. Steve had it right in post #9, set it to #1 and drive. You can then go by seat of the pants, but that's a crapshoot, so the dyno is your best bet for learning and improving anything in this case. OP isn't building a race engine. If you're not willing to dyno the car, then it doesn't really matter. Set it to 1 and go, it'll drive just fine.
  25. LeonV
    Ok... Cam retardation/timing variance happens, but I'll repeat that what's better for him is not necessarily for you. The article's purpose is not solely to tell you which hole to put your cam into. :tapemouth Well then, it appears as though you made quite the exaggeration in your original criticism of the text then, yes? You were annoyed by his thoughts on what the cam holes are "supposed" to be for and felt like ranting? Yes, in order to be proficient at reading comprehension you must have some critical thinking skills and be able to "read between the lines" a bit.
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