LeonV

Running a return will help. Heat insulation is key as well, make sure you have a heat shield installed between the exhaust manifold and carbs.

Return lines have benefits. You will have cooler fuel, a shorter response time and put less stress on your fuel pump with a functional return line. I'd go with a back-pressure regulated system: tank -> pump -> carbs -> regulator -> tank. This lets the pump flow freely, while controlling the restriction before the carbs in order to maintain steady pressure. This setup allows you to have fuel volume available on demand at all times, i.e. if the need for fuel quickly rises, the restriction gets smaller and more fuel is delivered to the floats immediately.

The Beck Arnley branded ball joints from Rockauto are the same "555" manufacturer and cost less than Moog or Raybestos.

Think about the way the cooling system works. Cool water comes from the radiator into the bottom of the block where the water pump sends it through the water jackets, into the head, and out through the thermostat back into the radiator. The heater gets it's hot water from a fitting at the back of the cylinder head and sends the return water back to the water pump inlet. With the hoses connected, the control valve regulates flow. When the heater lines are looped, you are connecting the back of the cylinder head with the water pump inlet. This means you are now pumping the hottest coolant back into the water pump inlet which is supposed to be receiving the lowest temp coolant! The loop bypasses the radiator by giving the hot coolant a path of least resistance back into the water pump. TonyD has done instrumented testing and included the results in the "Head cooling on cylinder #5" thread on HybridZ showing that at low load, and mid/high speed cruise rpm the temperature difference between looped and non-looped coolant temps is 50 degF! Yes, 50 degrees! Source: LINK

If the plan is to bypass the core, do not loop the heater lines. Plug them.

If you'd like to keep the "look" of the original L-Jet, then hide the MS in your old ECU case, keep the IAT and MAP sensors hidden, gut the AFM and you're good to go! Nobody would notice a thing. I suspect most are not interested in keeping the old hardware, especially since most people that go to MS don't do it to stay stock.

Those are the XXR 513. Not very good looking, IMO.

Nice find!

Great job! I take out RLS30-004406 on nice days, maybe I'll see you around!

This keeps pointing to a vacuum leak, at this stage. Popping occurs at the point of high vacuum and higher-than-idle fuel demand, and it gets better with more fuel. Seems like the mating surfaces have been checked, as well as hoses (booster, PCV, vac advance, any emissions hardware, etc.). I suppose you could double check (triple or quadruple at this point?) anything that is exposed to manifold vacuum. We'll see how the triples respond.

You'll have a lot better luck at hybridz.org with the info you're looking for. There are a lot of MS guys there and Matt Cramer actually frequents as well.

Have you tried experimenting different needles heights, as I mentioned earlier? Might as well...

The engine block had nothing to do with that. Either block works just fine, get the one that's in the best shape.

Go with the 9lb flywheel, you will not regret it. It's not like the clutch you'll be using is super-light. The pressure plate will probably outweigh the flywheel and friction disk. I don't think you'll have any issues driving it if you have any competency in driving a manual transmission car. I'm putting a 10lb Fidanza flywheel onto my L24 in the near future, FWIW... EDIT: as far as your original question, a stock clutch should hold up fine. You can use the 240mm turbo/2+2 unit if you're worried about it, but I'd have no qualms with using a stock clutch with a mild L28.

Correct, '72 and later models had a longer driveshaft. Use your current driveshaft unless you plan to do a diff swap.

Indeed!

Don't worry, I don't want to get Matt in trouble! He actually told me when I stopped by the garage one day, because he was mentioning the module crapping out on you!

That pump should work fine. Is your PCV system in proper working order?

That electronic distributor module sure isn't, on the PS30! And neither is the exhaust! However, the only reason I know that is from the mechanic (Matt?) telling me, which somewhat reinforces Alan's point (not like I'm a judge or an expert though). Looking into an engine bay of a 432 (or C10/C110 GTR) is immeasurably fascinating, especially for a Z owner. However, some random judge (let alone an "enthusiast") at some car show will almost surely have no clue what they're looking at, especially on a Japanese car that was never sold in the US. They'd probably say, "looks nice" and move on. Get them next to a Pontiac GTO, Mustang, Camaro, Challenger, etc. and they'll drool and remark all day long, and it's because that's what they know. Alan brings up a good point, the vast majority of people in the US just don't know these cars very well, hell most probably don't know they exist! Your garage is a godsend! I'd love to own a C10 someday, but for now I am very happy to be able to enjoy them in the flesh! I don't know what it is about classic Japanese cars that attracts certain people, but for me the attraction comes from not only great design and engineering, but also it being a relatively unexplored realm of automotive goodness. As was mentioned earlier, many Japanese cars had a lot of succcess in domestic markets and domestic racing but they were either not brought over to the US or did not have big racing/sales success in the US (GTRs, Bellets, 2000GT, Original Honda S-series, etc., this list can get very long). I feel like there is modesty and dignity in these classic Japanese cars, as strange as that sounds, because they have a very rich heritage but they do not "brag" about it. Only those in the know appreciate them for what they are. While it seems as though we want to change that, I find it captivating. There's always something new or interesting to learn about the old Japanese car sitting in the back (or front!) of the garage. Those are my 2 cents. Interesting thread!

The turbo transmission is the T-5, which needs a shorter driveshaft with the correct splines in order to swap in. The typical swap is a ZX (or Z) 5-speed. Use the driveshaft that connects to your current transmission and you'll be fine (same spline count), unless you swap differentials at the same time.

Corrected dyno numbers account for changes in temperature, pressure and humidity and are the numbers for a theoretical "standard" day. The only apples-to-apples comparison that can be made is if the cars run on the same dyno, utilizing the same correction standard.

Contact Clive (EvilC) on HybridZ.org

FWIW, I believe there were hinge shims that came from the factory, I have some that were on my Z. I'm assuming you didn't have any of those on your Z? Here they are in the parts diagram: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/Body240Z/DoorPanelGlassHinge/tabid/1762/Default.aspx EDIT: Upon review, it seems like those aren't the shims I was thinking of. The shims I was talking about have slots for the bolts and went between the hinge and the body.

Correct. I also recommend a search on DatsunParts LLC before doing anything...

Mike, I really like the way you set up your throttle return springs, I may have to copy that! I've been considering a throttle cable as well so I wouldn't mind seeing some more details. Nice job!