LeonV

Have you tried experimenting different needles heights, as I mentioned earlier? Might as well...

The engine block had nothing to do with that. Either block works just fine, get the one that's in the best shape.

Go with the 9lb flywheel, you will not regret it. It's not like the clutch you'll be using is super-light. The pressure plate will probably outweigh the flywheel and friction disk. I don't think you'll have any issues driving it if you have any competency in driving a manual transmission car. I'm putting a 10lb Fidanza flywheel onto my L24 in the near future, FWIW... EDIT: as far as your original question, a stock clutch should hold up fine. You can use the 240mm turbo/2+2 unit if you're worried about it, but I'd have no qualms with using a stock clutch with a mild L28.

Correct, '72 and later models had a longer driveshaft. Use your current driveshaft unless you plan to do a diff swap.

Indeed!

Don't worry, I don't want to get Matt in trouble! He actually told me when I stopped by the garage one day, because he was mentioning the module crapping out on you!

That pump should work fine. Is your PCV system in proper working order?

That electronic distributor module sure isn't, on the PS30! And neither is the exhaust! However, the only reason I know that is from the mechanic (Matt?) telling me, which somewhat reinforces Alan's point (not like I'm a judge or an expert though). Looking into an engine bay of a 432 (or C10/C110 GTR) is immeasurably fascinating, especially for a Z owner. However, some random judge (let alone an "enthusiast") at some car show will almost surely have no clue what they're looking at, especially on a Japanese car that was never sold in the US. They'd probably say, "looks nice" and move on. Get them next to a Pontiac GTO, Mustang, Camaro, Challenger, etc. and they'll drool and remark all day long, and it's because that's what they know. Alan brings up a good point, the vast majority of people in the US just don't know these cars very well, hell most probably don't know they exist! Your garage is a godsend! I'd love to own a C10 someday, but for now I am very happy to be able to enjoy them in the flesh! I don't know what it is about classic Japanese cars that attracts certain people, but for me the attraction comes from not only great design and engineering, but also it being a relatively unexplored realm of automotive goodness. As was mentioned earlier, many Japanese cars had a lot of succcess in domestic markets and domestic racing but they were either not brought over to the US or did not have big racing/sales success in the US (GTRs, Bellets, 2000GT, Original Honda S-series, etc., this list can get very long). I feel like there is modesty and dignity in these classic Japanese cars, as strange as that sounds, because they have a very rich heritage but they do not "brag" about it. Only those in the know appreciate them for what they are. While it seems as though we want to change that, I find it captivating. There's always something new or interesting to learn about the old Japanese car sitting in the back (or front!) of the garage. Those are my 2 cents. Interesting thread!

The turbo transmission is the T-5, which needs a shorter driveshaft with the correct splines in order to swap in. The typical swap is a ZX (or Z) 5-speed. Use the driveshaft that connects to your current transmission and you'll be fine (same spline count), unless you swap differentials at the same time.

Corrected dyno numbers account for changes in temperature, pressure and humidity and are the numbers for a theoretical "standard" day. The only apples-to-apples comparison that can be made is if the cars run on the same dyno, utilizing the same correction standard.

Contact Clive (EvilC) on HybridZ.org

FWIW, I believe there were hinge shims that came from the factory, I have some that were on my Z. I'm assuming you didn't have any of those on your Z? Here they are in the parts diagram: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/Body240Z/DoorPanelGlassHinge/tabid/1762/Default.aspx EDIT: Upon review, it seems like those aren't the shims I was thinking of. The shims I was talking about have slots for the bolts and went between the hinge and the body.

Correct. I also recommend a search on DatsunParts LLC before doing anything...

Mike, I really like the way you set up your throttle return springs, I may have to copy that! I've been considering a throttle cable as well so I wouldn't mind seeing some more details. Nice job!

Cool, always nice to get a baseline for the engine! We'll see what some properly-tuned Mikunis get you, you'll like the triples. I plan to verify my wideband at my next trip to the dyno, to see how close it is. It's a great instrument to have, even if it's slightly off. You can always scale the numbers once you've verified at the dyno. Curious point on the mixture screws. They definitely do affect the entire range, but the effect is diminished as the piston rises. They are most sensitive at idle and low speeds/throttle openings, but by the time you're WOT at mid-to-high rpm the effect is small (seemingly undetectable for all intents and purposes). This is why the needle profile must be tailored to the engine, a major pain to do when you get down to the fine details. Triples will be easier! Thanks for posting the info, Steve! Looking forward to seeing some Mikunis underhood.

Fixed that for you.

What, then tell me who gave me those socks for Christmas!

Steve, No need to burst any bubbles since you already had a baseline test done on that same dyno and can make a valid before/after comparison, right? Rest assured, however, that Dynojets inflate numbers by 15%, give or take a few percent, compared to the more accurate brake dyno.

Huh...?

For anyone running triple Webers, I recommend joining the "Sidedraft Central" Yahoo group and browsing the collection of great information. FWIW, I'm running just a stock mechanical pump on my Webers and no heat shield, although I've been meaning to make one. I don't know if you remember, but the new Webers (40DCOE 152) have relocated progression holes which may cause a problem (either high idle to maintain good driveability, or normal idle and lean spot on throttle tip-in). Some have drilled a new hole further downstream and plugged the original first hole with good success. This is documented on Sidedraft Central and probably on HybridZ as well. The 152 is nice for the fact that there are bypass screws which let you equalize two thoats of the same carb. This is a good feature. Good luck!

First off, nice job. Looks like a clean and well-done setup. Second of all (and don't let this burst your bubble), by themselves, dyno numbers are truly useless. What those numbers are good for, is comparison between cars and setups on the same dyno and preferably on the same day (for obvious reasons, this isn't always possible). It would be of more use to have dynoed the car before and after modifications, on the same dyno. For example, JustAFantaZ on HybridZ recently had his V8 Z dynoed on 2 different dynos. The difference in the results between the two dynos was 74hp (428hp vs. 502hp)! That's over 15% variation! We have to realize what dyno numbers are. This will lead to less fuss and confusion. Power or torque is calculated based on the type of dyno. There are variances between dynos, no two are the same. It is not a hard, true number although some dynos are closer than others. Was this done on a inertial (Dynojet, Superflow, etc.) or brake dyno (Mustang, Dynomite, etc.)? Inertial dynos, like a Dynojet, produce more inflated numbers. In JustAFantaZ's experience, the Dynojet showed over 15% more horsepower than the Mustang dyno! I'll copy/paste my post in the longtubes thread on HybridZ: Please, take dyno numbers with a grain of salt.

Looking good!

Seems as though you are right about that. However, if camber is to be brought back to spec (camber plates), the KPI will certainly be higher. With that said, the camber angle is the bigger issue here.

Step 1: Buy used set of Webers Step 2: Slap on said Webers to L24 Step 3: Drive Step 4: Install L28 with said Webers Step 5: Enjoy! You even have a wideband installed already, making tuning the Webers a piece of cake! The beauty of Webers is that you can make them work well on all sorts of engines, akin to the programmable EFI of today. I run 40s on my L24 and would have no problem using them on an L28. Some mild tuning would be involved, but the wideband takes all the guesswork out of it. I see nice used sets in the $700-800 range seemingly all the time. The DCOE is a pretty robust design, using ball bearing throttle shafts and piston-in-cylinder accelerator pumps. It shouldn't take more than some elbow grease and maybe a few gaskets/O-rings on a set that hasn't been beaten to death. Nothing, except a set of ITBs, beats some old school triples snarling at the command of your right foot, IMO!

IMO, installing e-fans is not an "upgrade". It adds complexity (need new dedicated electric circuit), puts more strain on your charging system, and may not even cool as well, depending on setup. The stock clutch fan works great and servicing/replacement is much easier and cheaper than putting in e-fans. If you feel the need to do it, there are multitudes of guides available online. If you search that is...