LeonV

Minced garlic?

Austin Hoke, among others, documented his VQ swap on hybridZ. Look up 240hoke.

Read the FSM and use the specified weight/class oil. I use Redline.

Same thing happened to me at Kragen/OReilly. Needless to say, I returned them and found large diameter fuel hose at a local race shop (Gotelli's in SSF, great shop BTW).

Preload? Stiffness doesn't depend on preload... You can't rely on your "butt dyno" to say there was no difference. Unless you put the springs in a spring tester, you can't draw that conclusion. Depending on how much the springs are cut, the increase in stiffness may not be drastic but it will increase nonetheless.

I don't understand why people think return lines are evil...

Necropost of the day! This thread is over 7 years old... It's a coil spring. If you cut a coil off, the spring constant (stiffness) will increase, no matter if it's progressive or linear. k= (G*d^4) / (8*n*D^3) k - spring stiffness G - a constant dependent upon material used d - wire diameter n - number of "active" coils (this varies with the type of spring ends) D - average coil diameter Therefore, stiffness increases as you decrease the amount of coils, increase material rigidity, increase wire diameter, or decrease average coil diameter.

If those are the choices, then it's definitely 110! Absolutely beautiful!

Check with the DMV. Only way to know is to ask, you wouldn't be required to pay on the spot or anything. If you have the title, everything can be done legally. It will be up to the buyer to pay off fees if they want to register the car.

I have one in every car, with the Z's being behind the passenger seat for easier access while sitting in the driver's seat.

If you have an open diff, the car won't move.

Andy, Sounds like you've had your hands full! The roller crank is what really does it for me. Well, the chain driven axles do it as well! Honda used such cool and unique designs on their S-cars. Good luck on your speed quest! I have a 2/71 240Z that's stripped and ready for paint, but I've been focusing on my early 260Z, so if you have some 260Z-specific questions then I can try to help. I agree that it is easier to justify modification of the 260Z than 240Z, but both are fantastic cars and honestly nearly identical if you don't go deep into the details. I have a little thread here, with some pictures and video if you're curious. I've typed out a much longer story of my Z-experiences in my hybridz thread, if you have the patience to read it! You Roadster sounds like a sweet car as well, can't wait to see your projects unfold!

No problem, I'm glad to help out! You're right about the 260Zs, they don't get the respect, but I enjoy their "quirkiness"!

Honda S800? You need to post pictures and any video you have! You are a lucky man, those are such sweet cars!

Tire "bouncing" would be a symptom of a bad shock. I would replace the shocks, maybe the rears only for now (I'd do all 4). Have someone drive next to you and observe what the wheels do. Do you have a warranty on the shocks? Do you know what shocks are in there?

Congrats Julio! Sorry I missed out, got a call this morning about a surprise birthday party for a friend. There's always next year. Nice job representing the Z-car community!

What do you mean by uneven ride? Can you describe exactly what you're noticing while driving? If the car is hitting the bump-stops, the ride will feel harsh, and you'll get some "crashing" over large bumps in the road (spring rate goes very high).

The car is back on the road as of the start of June! Driving impressions are that it handles great, but I really need to avoid larger bumps in the road. I hit one big enough to dislodge the coil-to-distributor wire from the coil! The front bump stop definitely gets used, but it is currently unshaved. I plan to take off 3/4" to maybe 1" off the front bump stop, it should help to take a bit of harshness out. The rears seem like they have more travel (can't see as progressive coils are bound there), considering that my early 260Z rear struts match the 240Z (unlike the fronts). I could run the rears as-is but shaving the stop 1/2" or so wouldn't hurt. The suspension really transformed the car and keeps it very well planted. I need to finally go to an autoX to really see what it can do! Before After I also made a couple of comparison videos, just to have some sort of reference for what it was when I got it. Before: Mute this video until after the glitch at about 0:03! http://s518.photobucket.com/albums/u345/LeonVin/RLS30-004406/?action=view&current=P1010942-1.mp4 After: (Drivetrain changes include 3.9 R200 (was 3.54), full suspension rebuild, triple Webers, wheels) Enjoy, and yes, I do need a new exhaust!

Door latches are the same '70-'76, with the only difference between those years being an extra reinforcement beam inside the door. So your passenger door locks but it has the updated latches, if I understand correctly? If it's rust-free and works, I would not change anything. Follow what others suggest, and do the more important things first (like fixing the brakes).

The full VIN would be HLS30-12968, meaning a fairly early example. There were some small changes made around VIN 21000, so 240Zs made before then are considered the "early" ones.

Hybridz did a windtunnel test of the S30. There were only two air dams tested, BRE and MSA type3. Data shows that the MSA type3 was twice as effective at reducing lift (no downforce in Z cars, unless highly modified) compared to the BRE. I have a feeling that the MSA type1 is also more effective than the BRE.

No problem comrade. Lada was tops on my list growing up! Of course I had no idea what a Z-car, or even a Nissan, was back then.

Not a problem, I'll just take the Lotus.

Nice avatar Blue! Although the last word should be автомобиль.

The move to MS is justified by the huge increase in system tunability, not a gas mileage increase, that would be a bonus. You can put in as much fuel and spark advance as you want at any point of your engines operating curve with the press of a button. And since when does MS cost $1000? You can put together a system at less than half, maybe even a quarter of that price depending on the hardware you get.