LeonV

I'd expect at least 30mpg on highway trips, given that the tune is done well. And no, you will not gain anywhere near 100hp from removing the AFM and installing a larger throttle body, but that's not what Art was getting at. That much power from an NA L-gata will take an engine build, but MS has the power to support all sorts of engines, and therein lies its beauty.

Bingo, nice find!

I think it's the combination of rear toe-in and negative camber that causes the middle wear. Setting rear toe to zero will likely solve this problem but it might create another. I know S2000s can be twitchy so setting rear toe to zero, from a previously toe-in setting, may make it less stable during hard driving.

I have a comp tester, where are you located? Compression should be pretty even across the board, don't worry about the numbers as much. If it's not even, then there are some more diagnostics to go through. Make sure to check and adjust valve lash to spec if necessary.

It would be more modern (good thing), but that doesn't mean it will look it. The ECU will go somewhere hidden, perhaps in the location of the current ECU (you can probably even make it look like a stock ECU! I think TonyD has done some sneaky stuff like that). You'll have to integrate a couple of sensors but those can be made pretty inconspicuous as well. No need for that bulky flow-restriction called the AFM! I completely understand the allure of old tech, I have triple Webers and enjoy understanding and working on them. The sound is awesome and the look on people's faces is even better! Still, the draw to go ITBs, standalone ECU and adjustable coil-overs is almost too great to resist!

Around here dyno testing/tuning runs about $90-$100 per hour, and I consider it money well spent! If I were going for a regrind, I would just send the cam to Isky (they have a ton of experience with Z cams), resurface rockers, get some matching valve springs, lash pads and be on my way. My point about the dyno is, what sort of "bang for your buck" will you be getting with the mild cam change? If I decided to change cams, I'd want something more. Call Isky and talk to Ron, maybe you'll change your mind. Otherwise, you can try the local place, or just drive your car the way it is.

That tire size (225/50-16) typically works even without coilovers, but of course depends on wheel offset. Coilovers will give you more room for increased wheel backspacing.

Do a compression and leakdown test. Procedures are widely available online, make sure to take out plugs, plug fuel lines and WOT for comp test.

Sarah, go standalone, you will not regret it! You will have control over the whole fuel map (and spark, if so desired) with the flick of a finger. No need to mess around with different circuits and try to make an ancient EFI system more adjustable and efficient. With MS, set cruise leaner and higher load operation richer and voila, it's that easy!

The exhaust manifold is not stock, but it's hard to tell which one it is as I can't really see the pipes very well. Maybe snap some pics under the carbs with flash on?

I would recommend putting the car on a dyno before and after to see what it actually gets you. It would be nice data to have. How much is the shop charging for the cam regrind?

While we're on this topic, increasing lift will not hinder performance. The only detriment to increasing lift is higher valvetrain acceleration, which in turn increases valvetrain stress and affects stability. The lesson being: go as high lift as your hardware safely allows.

If those are your choices, there won't be much of a difference between them. The MSA one may come on at slightly higher rpm. Number one and two are almost identical, with #2 probably shifting the powerband up a tiny amount. Why do you limit yourself at .460" lift, valve springs?

You're not going to get much negative camber in the front of a Z by just lowering it, other measures are required. My 260Z is lowered about 2" in front and I have -0.5deg of camber. If you plan to do a lot of autoX and track work, I would highly recommend switching to adjustable coilovers. Instead of spending valuable time trying to make a setup with very limited adjustability work right, just spend the time and money now on the coilovers if you're truly serious about this. Otherwise, minimal changes in the current setup will yield small (if any) gains.

Why not? It's a smart design, flip the arm and it fits the other side.

Out of curiousity, what does your exhaust manifold look like? The downpipe looks like it hooks up to a Clifford header or similar. Any photos?

No, not "more better." The ZX box is already a cold air intake, and putting on an "intake kit" won't do anything but change the sound coming from under-hood. Put in a K&N drop-in filter.

I have heard multiple people getting 30mpg using MS. In fact, I know a guy who did a turbo swap using MS and did just that. Just takes some tuning and a precise fuel delivery system (not carbs).

Read my post again... The increase in acceleration is brought on by a decrease in rotational inertia, not any increase in power. Of course it revved faster, there is less inertia for the engine to rotate, just like Steve's example of putting on lighter wheels. This means nothing in terms of how much power your engine puts out to the wheels. Stock flywheels are 23lb or so by the way. Steve hit the nail on the head!

Spray cool water on the metal lines from a bottle. If it helps, the lines need insulation or some sort of heat shielding. Nissan installed a cooling fan on the 280ZX to alleviate this problem.

Pretty sure it's not flash, but I'm no software expert. You must be missing some sort of driver/codec/application/???. It works on Explorer and Firefox on my work and home computers.

In Europe, they also subsidizes diesel prices. In the US, we subsidize corn-based ethanol. Go figure...

Not to be picky, but there is exactly zero power gain from switching flywheels. What you are doing is decreasing rotational inertia, which in turn increases acceleration and can be perceived as a power gain. Your engine isn't making any more power, nor is more power getting to the wheels than before. Instead, think of it as if you just removed some weight from your car. Threadjack over!

Have you tried cooling down the fuel lines before you attempt a hot start, or when the symptoms show up?

I was running slotted 14" mags with 225/60-14 size tires on them and they fit very nicely. However, the tire selection is poor so I upgraded to 16" Panasports.