LeonV

Why not go with this one?

Why did you reduce pipe diameter from 2.5 inch to 2.25 inch?

I say let people think it's inferior. It keeps prices down! :cheeky:

I have an early 260Z with a triple carb'd L24 (PO swapped the block in), late ZX 5-speed, 3.9 R200, freshly rebuilt suspension, a complete interior plus roll bar with Panasports ready to install. It is a really fun car and feels just like a Z should. I don't see or feel any inferiority compared to my '71 240Z, except that every time I tell someone it's a 260Z they tend to either look confused or almost somewhat disappointed. Usually if a passer-by says "nice 240" or "sweet 280" I just go with it. Some parts are different from the 240Z and 280Z, but it can be fun (and frustrating) to own a quirky one-year-only model.

I would recheck your KYB boxes.

I too used rockauto tie rod ends (Moog) with no problem. I would double check all suspension work in front, including bushing installation and orientation. Did you torque everything down with the car loaded?

Someone needs to put in some more effort into their English grammar skills. I guess Lynbrook High didn't do a very good job.

That's actually backwards. Moving sprocket positions from 1 towards 3 will advance the cam, thus moving the powerband down for more low and mid-range torque.

Natural selection at its finest...

My early 260Z seats mount just like my '71, studs through supports fastened by nuts from the bottom.

Strange, those parts definitely don't look like they came out of the factory. Guess I haven't been around many stock 280Zs...

Drove it back home successfully after the first drive since the suspension rebuild, and multitude of other smaller fixes. After all that work it reminds me of why I love my Z! Tach now works, but speedometer doesn't. Looks like they have an inverse relationship, when one works the other doesn't. Gotta love old cars...

I've never seen the plates under the differential in pic 6 nor the plate covering the LCA bolt in pic 7.

I would go for Tokico (HP or Illumina) inserts. I installed HPs and the ride is great. Some KYB inserts were in there before the rebuild and they were too soft for my liking. I see some strange stuff in your pics, BTW. Picture 6 and 7 show some metal plates that aren't stock.

"Urethane" is just short for "Polyurethane." No difference in the material. I just completely rebuilt my suspension (early 260Z) with poly bushings, dampers and springs, ball joints, and tie rods. It feels great, much better than worn out stock stuff at least. It's not overly stiff for my tastes either.

Other dimensions held constant, a longer spring will have a softer rate.

Yep, good chance it's that. Early 240Z oil bars are notorious for falling apart. Mine did, and ended up in the oil pan. Luckily I didn't run it long before I noticed. After you check the oiler, do a visual check of the cam and run a finger across the cam lobes to feel for any wear.

I hear you on that one! All those hours spent cleaning and sanding, I would be perfectly fine with giving someone $320 and have pretty parts come back without lifting a piece of sandpaper.

L24 rods are already forged. Why do you think you need forged pistons?

A few years ago, I noticed an end of my oil bar broke off on my 240Z. Found the piece in my oil pan!

John (jtburf) on Hybridz makes them. Just make sure to use a lot of heat and go slow.

If you have the firing order clockwise on the cap then that is your problem. Make sure the #1 plug is in the right spot and arrange the rest accordingly. Check with a timing light when you're done. It should then at least light off on ether, if not by itself.

It's an MSA 6-2 header.

Did you get any moisture into the engine? If yes, the TPS is the usual culprit.

I wouldn't recommend bending and welding the brake pedal. It will likely be okay for street use but realize that you are now changing how the pedal and linkage is stressed (magnitude depending on how much you bend and shorten it) and creating a stress riser at the weld.