LeonV

Strange, works for me, on different computers even.

I like this one a lot better.

Just think of it this way, if you buy a less than stellar-bodied example in Florida, will it be more expensive than to just take a road trip or fly out of state and drive/tow/ship the car back to Florida? Answer that and your objective will become clear. Keeping intial cost down, versus paying more for a good body, may seem fine in the short term but keep in mind that costs add up.

Never leave your car supported by a jack. Place jackstands in the correct locations and leave it on the stands for as long as you have to. With that said, as beerman points out, I doubt your insulator failed from that, especially if the diff was supported as the FSM shows (toward the rear diff mount/mustache bar).

Find the car with as little rust as possible! This may require you to travel far, possibly out of state. California is full of essentially "rust-free" Zs, so is AZ, plus they are cheaper than on the East Coast. Everything else is easy: engine, drivetrain, suspension, interior, when compared to doing tons of rust repair. If you're very patient, 2-5 years is okay. I got impatient of my '71 being on jackstands for 2 years, so I bought an early '74 260Z. I needed to drive a Z already and it allowed me to take my time with the 240Z. Lastly, do your research. There is tons of Z-related info that you can find by searching here, hybridz.org, zcar.com, through which you will likely find links to other interesting Z sites, like http://datsunzgarage.com/'>DatsunZGarage, http://atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html'>Blue's Tech Tips, Zhome and Xenon's site. Welcome to the addiction!

Those ratios match the '77-'79 Z/ZX and '81-83 ZX, respectively. The close-ratio transmission is great, less drop from 2-3 shifts and a taller overdrive, for lower cruising rpm. I have the late ZX trans in my Z paired with a 3.9, and love the gearing. Before I swapped in the 3.9, the rear diff was a 3.54, and I still very much liked it. Get the close-ratio trans, and if you decide you want even more tractive effort then install a higher ratio diff. Ratios: http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html

Right, just like the FSM picture. I can't think of why anyone would place the jack on any other spot on the diff...

The differential housing is the rear jacking point as specified by the FSM; page GI-11, figure GI-9 (in '72 FSM). That's where I always jack the rear up and never had a problem. FYI...

Panasports!

More...

It was great meeting you, Julio! It was an awesome show, I'll upload a few of my pics as well.

Very true! Maybe I'll register on-site...

I'm going to stop by in the morning in my orange 260Z. I didn't register to show the car as it's not ready for that yet. Should be a good show as long as the weather treats us nicely!

Looks good, get a video up here!

Why not go with this one?

Why did you reduce pipe diameter from 2.5 inch to 2.25 inch?

I say let people think it's inferior. It keeps prices down! :cheeky:

I have an early 260Z with a triple carb'd L24 (PO swapped the block in), late ZX 5-speed, 3.9 R200, freshly rebuilt suspension, a complete interior plus roll bar with Panasports ready to install. It is a really fun car and feels just like a Z should. I don't see or feel any inferiority compared to my '71 240Z, except that every time I tell someone it's a 260Z they tend to either look confused or almost somewhat disappointed. Usually if a passer-by says "nice 240" or "sweet 280" I just go with it. Some parts are different from the 240Z and 280Z, but it can be fun (and frustrating) to own a quirky one-year-only model.

I would recheck your KYB boxes.

I too used rockauto tie rod ends (Moog) with no problem. I would double check all suspension work in front, including bushing installation and orientation. Did you torque everything down with the car loaded?

Someone needs to put in some more effort into their English grammar skills. I guess Lynbrook High didn't do a very good job.

That's actually backwards. Moving sprocket positions from 1 towards 3 will advance the cam, thus moving the powerband down for more low and mid-range torque.

Natural selection at its finest...

My early 260Z seats mount just like my '71, studs through supports fastened by nuts from the bottom.

Strange, those parts definitely don't look like they came out of the factory. Guess I haven't been around many stock 280Zs...