LeonV

I have an early 260Z and my tach did the same thing, jumped to 8000rpm with ignition on. However, the PO made a short in the circuit when wiring in a start switch (to fix the solenoid click, no start issue). After I removed the switch and reconnected the old wiring the tach would work intermittently, sometimes I'd have to tap on the housing. Then it pretty much stopped working so I figured something got fried inside. I took it apart and looked at it, no multimeter involved, and noticed nothing that would indicate damage. Just got a 280Z tach off of ebay so I'm hoping that solves my problem.

The numbers are even cylinder-to-cylinder making me think gauge error, or the test was performed incorrectly. You don't even mention if the car runs or not. If it drives fine, then it is a test error. At 60psi, that engine would be extremely down on power. Something like cam timing can greatly affect cranking compression values across all cylinders. If your compression is actually that low then I'd say the rings are the most likely to wear so evenly and drop compression. Perform a leak down test to be sure. Worst case is the engine must be removed, best case is it's fine. Maybe you need to adjust cam timing to compensate for timing chain stretch, but that sure is a lot simpler than an engine rebuild.

The block is N42 as well.

You're probably not getting enough voltage to the solenoid either from a drained battery, or loose/corroded connectors causing a voltage drop. Many have had this issue so search and you'll find similar problems and solutions. First thing I would do is have someone turn the key while you check voltage at the solenoid.

Awesome, hopefully I'll be in town!

When the 14 head bolts and 2 front cover bolts are removed, a rubber mallet gives enough persuasion in my experience.

That's too bad, I'm guessing you didn't suction purge the automated Carnot-Planck cascading regenerator?

Ah yes, the Gonculator. I've articulated quite a few brass-menial rectifying transistors with the Gonculator.

If you hit a slab of fiberglass or carbon fiber hard enough to shatter it, I'd say the shards are the least of your worries!

My apologies, I mistook the turbo encapsulator for a hydro anti-exergizer.

It is a flux storage device which utilizes the reluctance of the magnetic poles in order to generate electronic dissonance.

Ratcheting wrenches will save you a lot of time. Jacking and support points are described in the FSM, look in the "General Information" section.

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/cam/index.htm Not sure why you need this info though. Stock cams are already timed from the factory by way of cam sprocket provisions.

No, it will simply be sucked out into the engine and be burned off.

I don't know if that picture you posted of the engine bay is current or not, but your vac advance hose is disconnected causing a vacuum leak. It may not be the issue but it is something that would make the car run poorly.

Damper fluid does not affect the steady state mixture whatsoever, what it affects is transients (acceleration). If you read the link I posted, you would see that the lower the piston is, the smaller the cross sectional area, therefore the higher the velocity is at the venturi. Higher velocity equals higher pressure drop, so more fuel is draw out and your mixture is richer. A lightweight oil will let the piston move quicker, thus it will tend to lean out transients. Thus, a more viscous (thicker) oil will richen transient mixtures. If your oil is too light it may cause piston flutter which leads to an unsteady mixture. RacerZ says a lighter oil will make for "crisper response." I don't buy that generalization because the only way response will improve by going to a lighter oil is if your transient mixtures are too rich. That's like saying that decreasing the size of the pump jet on a typical carb will improve response.

Looks like they tried to cover up rust with paint, there is much more lurking underneath. I would not touch that car at the asking price.

To experiment, try to lean it out enough to make the smell go away and then drive it. Also make sure that your ignition system is in proper tune: clean plugs, timed correctly, cap is seated on the dizzy (yes that was a problem for me before), etc. An 02 sensor or gas analyzer will tell all.

There is no emulsion tube or anything else besides one orifice, which you can call a jet, and a tapered needle. The needle adjusts orifice area when engine vacuum causes the piston holding the needle to move in its bore. You can't "change the jet" on SUs unless you want to get into major (unneeded) modifications. What you can change is the needle geometry. A narrower needle equals a richer mixture. There are different needle profiles available to fine tune SUs. I don't think this is necessary in this case. The round tops also don't have a dedicated idle and low speed circuit as "typical" carburetors would. It's all one circuit, so if you richen up the low end, you are richening up the high end as well. Vice-versa for leaning the mixture. My hypothesis is that there is a vacuum leak, likely in the throttle bushings which tend to wear out and leak. Since there is a vacuum leak, the tuner compensates by making the mixture richer. This causes idle and low speed cruise AFR to be richer than it needs to be and there's your smell. You won't see black smoke until 10:1 AFR. Here is an explanation of SU functionality: SU Principles of Operation

To be blunt, you don't understand the fundamentals of SU carbs. Racer88, use a sniffer or WB02 to really see what's going on. I've been fairly certain the you're running rich. Follow the suggestions on Hybridz. You either have leaky, mal-adjusted carbs, or one (or both) of the jets is stuck in the down position.

I'm not buying that argument either. Considering there is a balance tube connecting the carbs this "pulse" explanation is, for all intents and purposes, a moot point. Seems like it should work just fine, and it's not like the twin SUs don't have mixture distribution problems either. A triple, twin-choke (DCOE, PHH, etc.) setup will inherently out-perform any combination of SUs given a proper setup and would be more cost-effective than a triple SU setup because of the custom work required.

I've dealt with registering out of state cars in CA. At this point, you need to take it to the DMV for an "inspection" (all they do is match up the VINs like you allude to). I did it through the DMV, maybe CHP does the same thing. I'd go to the DMV and do all the registration and inspection in one fell swoop.

Just go to the DMV and register the car. If it was previously registered in CA, all you have to do is pay the fees. No smog or VIN checks necessary.

If you loop the hoses to drive home, that's fine. However, do not keep the heater hoses looped! That creates a path of least resistance for the coolant which bypasses the radiator and will overheat your engine when driving hard. TonyD has engine dyno evidence of this over on HybridZ. When you get home either (1) put in new heater hoses, I've done this but it was a PITA or (2) plug the heater hoses/connections at both ends.

Rockauto has a lot of quality parts for typically decent prices.