LeonV

Bingo! You have just witnessed the inherent flaw in round top SUs.

Right. As I said, it'll work, but a return line is better.

I'm not sure what size hose I'm running, but it is slightly wider than the stock feeds to the SUs. As for the lines, I don't see why a return line would be bad and the Z is already set up for it anyway, and why remove the rail for that matter. I kept the fuel rail (and the mechanical pump as well) and am using the return on my triples. My suggestion: Tank > Filter > Mechanical pump > Rail > Hose into front carb > Connect carbs > Last carb feeds back into the rail > Return If you want to run a fuel pressure regulator, then place it after the carbs with a return line present and you now have better regulation and fuel flow since you are regulating the back-pressure and have a bypass for excess fuel. Only excess fuel goes past the regulator instead of the method you mention, which would put a restriction without a bypass and effectively heat the fuel before it even gets to the engine bay. Plus, with a dead-headed setup the fuel then has nowhere to go and further heat up compared to a return line and a back-pressure regulated system. Of course, I am not saying that your setup won't work and I'm sure many have used it and were okay with doing so. However I prefer the better option especially since the car already has the required provisions. If your Z is just a street cruiser then you probably won't have a problem with the way you were originally told.

Correct. I had a set of those in 15X7 that I sold last year. On the back it should say "OZ" and "Made in Italy."

You set the exhaust valve all the way open at TDC and your engine ran? That's the obvious reason behind the valve-to-piston contact. TDC is the overlap period of the intake opening and exhaust closing, and neither should be completely open at that point. Your cam timing is way off and you need to set it according to the cam card provided.

MSA twice pipes are 1.75" per pipe, and I think the old Clifford system is 2" pipes. BTW, can everyone lose the "back-pressure" idea already, it has nothing to do with improving pumping efficiency. You want your exhaust pipe big enough in order to not incur losses in the system. That's it. Before trying to justify the myth, please at least read this thread explaining exhaust dynamics. As for the OP's second question, a single 2.5" to 3" pipe is better than duals because of weight concerns, price and possibly loss of secondary scavenging effects if you plan on true dual pipes. I have a Clifford header and plan to use it to replicate the old dual system because I like the look and sound not because it is the best performer.

Or you can just tow with the front wheels on the ground. I'm not seeing what is wrong with that option. Why put in extra work when you can just lift up the rear instead of the front?

Same thing happened with my 240Z, still waiting for bodywork and paint. I ended up getting a 260Z to quell the pain, and I'm really trying to force myself to not go too deep! It feels good to refresh a car that's been neglected, a full resto is a bit more of putting long term gratification over the short term. Gotta stay committed!

"Never tow with the drive wheels on the ground." Just passing on advice from a tow truck driver that picked up my first Z.

I guess I'm just used to going all out! When I do something like brakes it usually ends up being a much bigger job... "say those bearings are pretty old", "should probably replace these nasty bushings too", "might as well paint the suspension while it's apart"...

Incorrect, the plates bolt to the strut.

An ARB does not nor should not affect ride height, unless it is binding somewhere which would not be good. The only time the ARB comes into play is when the ends are deflected, meaning it only applies a force when one wheel moves with respect to the other wheel. It should not be weight bearing.

I have an early 260Z and my tach did the same thing, jumped to 8000rpm with ignition on. However, the PO made a short in the circuit when wiring in a start switch (to fix the solenoid click, no start issue). After I removed the switch and reconnected the old wiring the tach would work intermittently, sometimes I'd have to tap on the housing. Then it pretty much stopped working so I figured something got fried inside. I took it apart and looked at it, no multimeter involved, and noticed nothing that would indicate damage. Just got a 280Z tach off of ebay so I'm hoping that solves my problem.

The numbers are even cylinder-to-cylinder making me think gauge error, or the test was performed incorrectly. You don't even mention if the car runs or not. If it drives fine, then it is a test error. At 60psi, that engine would be extremely down on power. Something like cam timing can greatly affect cranking compression values across all cylinders. If your compression is actually that low then I'd say the rings are the most likely to wear so evenly and drop compression. Perform a leak down test to be sure. Worst case is the engine must be removed, best case is it's fine. Maybe you need to adjust cam timing to compensate for timing chain stretch, but that sure is a lot simpler than an engine rebuild.

The block is N42 as well.

You're probably not getting enough voltage to the solenoid either from a drained battery, or loose/corroded connectors causing a voltage drop. Many have had this issue so search and you'll find similar problems and solutions. First thing I would do is have someone turn the key while you check voltage at the solenoid.

Awesome, hopefully I'll be in town!

When the 14 head bolts and 2 front cover bolts are removed, a rubber mallet gives enough persuasion in my experience.

That's too bad, I'm guessing you didn't suction purge the automated Carnot-Planck cascading regenerator?

Ah yes, the Gonculator. I've articulated quite a few brass-menial rectifying transistors with the Gonculator.

If you hit a slab of fiberglass or carbon fiber hard enough to shatter it, I'd say the shards are the least of your worries!

My apologies, I mistook the turbo encapsulator for a hydro anti-exergizer.

It is a flux storage device which utilizes the reluctance of the magnetic poles in order to generate electronic dissonance.

Ratcheting wrenches will save you a lot of time. Jacking and support points are described in the FSM, look in the "General Information" section.

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/cam/index.htm Not sure why you need this info though. Stock cams are already timed from the factory by way of cam sprocket provisions.