The570z

New folks come and go... Thats a good idea on the ebay thing, I will have to try that. Im not trying to go nuts with the bumps, thats why I leave it at least a week before I say something. It may be a slim chance that it will be recognized, but I have none if its buried

I maintain my hope that somebody will have seen that brand wheel before.

... Here I thought having unique and rare crap was cool, now im starting to rethink the matter, .

bumpz, here is the attachment but more visible

bump, still haven't tracked it down

Reminds me of the old racing adage "I know your cheating because Im cheating and your faster then me" Words to live by eh?

Hey my memorial to my car made it into the pictures, w00t!! I figured I was a shoe in for "work in progress" as it died on the way to the show, how much more work in progress can you get eh? But alas the general public did not see it that way

bumps

A 1986 Toyota Turbo Pickup, 22R-TE. Its my trail rig too, Ive drowned it(full hydro lock) jumped it(bout 2 feet) and driven 10k miles in 8 months and it runs better then when I bought it!

I have the covers in the picture to the left, almost exactly except mine have been punched out for the oil cap and breather.

Have no fear sir, I am irish, I take offense to everything .

Not intending any offense there, calm down. I said that more because most people were going to look at your temp, check theirs, get very depressed and go spend a lot of money trying to get it colder then its supposed to go. However, since you "young whipper snappered" me, here is another fun fact:bulb:. "Freeze-12" is 70-85% Tetrafluoroethane AKA R-134a. The other component HFC 152a(Difluoroethane) is a gas that is not only quite flammable, but half the size of an R-12 molecule. Thus both of these have no trouble leaking from an R-12 system.

Im kinda going resto-mod on it, its not original anyway right? And thanks for the offer, Ill be contacting you when I start banging my head against the wall. Im not sure what all he bought and what all he begged, borrowed, or picked up after they shut down. Almost everything I have on the car are the unpopular options, and alot of it seems not quite right. But Scarab was never popular enough to have a fake parts following I don't think. The engine mount adapters dont match the description ive heard of the original ones. They dont match the reproduction ones for sure anyway. The ones in mine are not marked and do not have any slotted holes. The rear tranny mount is custom as well, probably because I have a BW T-50 tranny(supposedly reworked by doug nash). I found a set of the hooker reproduction scarab headers and stuck those on it. However I was surprised to find the scarab bellhousing stuck the stupid slave and release fork exactly in the path of the drivers side collector... Thus a ridiculous amount of time and money later and I have a one off hydraulic bearing setup now. Damn pedal is kinda stiff though, I folded two Tilton full race clutch master cyl pushrods in half.:stupid: I finally made one out of a 10mm 10.9 head bolt, that should hold up for a while I hope

@sblake01 Ironically enough, vent temps below freezing indicate a problem, your thermostatically controlled expansion valve(its the deal on the end of the evaporator core where the high side line comes in to it) is not functioning properly. Its whole job is to keep the core at or above 32 degrees. Evaporator core temps are not supposed to drop below freezing because ice will form and either block the airflow or insulate the core and prevent cooling. /end bubble burst. Oh and on a side note, R-12 if you can afford it, is a much better option then freeze-12 as it does not leak out of a sealed system. Freeze-12 and R-134a will leak out over a couple years even in a perfect, brand spanking new a/c system.

Man, take a week off and drive it back, I am a mechanic and from what ive seen on it, I would totally take it cross country! Low mileage is great but its not 100% original so it doesnt affect value that much.

I happen to know this car, Its extraordinarily clean, however if I remember right people said it had a few minor changes here and there keeping from being 100% original. Dont quote me on this as I only looked and said "pretty!" I dont know the cars well enough to say what was stock and what wasn't, mine has very little original on it so ive never bothered to find out what is supposed to be there IF somebody on here is interested in purchasing it, let me know and I will be happy to put them in touch with some local members who did examine quite thoroughly and are very familiar with 240zs. I would say that there is probably a bias against the seller so take what you hear with a grain of salt and verify it, but at least its a starting point for verifying its condition and unmolested status. The owner of the car does have an Eye for quality so if he bought it, its about as close to perfect as you get. He just is not a Z fanatic so concours level details(those tiny little differences that some people live for) would not be something he would catch.

I refuse to believe I have stumped all of you! Cmon you European folks, You guys got to have seen it before!

The gauge is a scarab boost/egt combo unit. Not a very popular option as they only sold 5(I think) turbo scarabs. Sold the rest to the 6cyl turbo guys I think. Mine isnt even turbo /fail. As for that shot, it was the only one I had with the horn button on, it fell apart shortly after that shot was taken when I got the car. Ive been trying to ID the wheel so I could attempt to get a replacement button. IF it helps at all the wheel was 100% for sure made in england(its stamped on there) I just cant ID the badge on it. I traced out the logo on this shot, hopefully it will help? Steering wheel.bmp

Bump, anybody have any ideas? Ill take a guess at this point as its more then I got!

I am trying to figure out what steering wheel this is so I might have a chance in hell of finding a replacement horn button for it. Sorry for the crappy picture quality, I cant seem to get the camera to take a close up of the emblem, but it looks something like either CPC or JPC england. Middle letter is a P anyway, the other two are all stylized. Edit: deleted the two extra large shots, see last post for smaller better one.

And here are a couple pics of my car from the build up to try and make it to MSA, however a soft camshaft dashed that plan and I showed up with a poster instead:cry:

Thats all I have done for now, ill get the rest done and post them up. I started this for hybrid Z but there didn't seem to be any interest so I quit bothering .

I have most of the scans done on all my original Scarab brochures and install instructions. I have a kit car, not a numbered vehicle, however its from San Jose and the owner managed to acquire several pieces not normally for sale. Its currently in rough unrestored shape and Im moving as fast as funds will allow . Interestingly enough in this documentation you can see how scattered scarab really was, there are two distinct versions of the valve covers between these two ads. I have yet another version that appears to be either a knockoff or an early prototype of the later valve covers(6 fin). Mine are the original edelbrock casting with the scarab badges attached over the edelbrock ones making it flush with the fins instead of recessed. The scarab emblems were aluminum and very well made, scarabs were so damned rare and unheard of I kinda doubt anybody went through the trouble of making fake valve covers, but who knows? Rest of the pics in more posts.