auzziez

Bump. You know you Need some parts

S1 240 Parts Sale or Trade. Make me an offer. You pay shipping. Taking up room 70-72 SU Carb Air Cleaner - no bolts 73 240Z Bumper Guards 72 240Z Rear Bumper with Guards 34 inch spacing ?? 240Z Rear Bumper with Guards 30 inch spacing 240Z Front and Rear Bumper Overriders MSA 240Z Front Bumper MSA Flush Mount Mirror Kit 200SX 80-83 Hubcaps (don't know why i have these)

This looks like a bargain: from BAT: "1973 Datsun 240Z is a longtime-owned driver in original condition apart from an older repaint and rust repair. The seller says it has never been in an accident and and is a 20-footer, and we love the stock appearance with hubcaps. Find it here on Craigslist in Charlestown, Indiana for $5,900. Special thanks to BaT reader CPK for this submission!" https://bringatrailer.com/2014/09/21/39-years-owned-1973-datsun-240z/

I call dibs on the Horn Button

Early Series 1 240Z's had a valve cover that had "NISSAN 2400 OHC" written on them. Later S1's changed to read "NISSAN OHC" . Can anyone tell me which years had which valve cover? Any idea if there is a range of engine block numbers that had one or the other valve cover? Thanks in advance Tony V. '71 S1 240Z HLS30-17268

Sorry dude. I don't get it. But if you can up with a decent trade, I can broker a deal.

Thanks BGM. Anyone else?

Recently at a local car show, a guy came by to see my S1 240Z and asked me if I was interested in buying a '82 S130 Non-Turbo Coupe. I have an idea of what it's worth, but the fellow mentioned a price that was much higher than what thought it's worth. What would you pay? Here are the details and pictures: Vin #JN1HZ04S9CX462074 Starts, engine runs well. The clutch seems frozen, but that's fairly normal for a car that's been sitting 6 months in Florida. Good paint. Minor surface rust underneath, but no rot. Interior needs work. Window film is bubbling. The bad: a branch fell on the roof and hit the hood, there are 3 minor dents (1 on the roof, 1 on the hood and 1 on the hatch (not good).

I like the stripes, but I'm with SiteUnSeen. I call the two types of stripes the 240Z-Positive and the 240Z-Negative (as in film negatives). I like the 240Z-Negative, where the 240Z are cut out of the stripe so the body color shows through. See the pics. First one is the 240Z-Negative. Second one is the 240Z-Positive.

You may try to eliminate the easy solutions first. What you haven't said is when you put your clutch back together. If it's been awhile your clutch plate may be rust frozen to the fly wheel. Looks like you are in Vancouver, which has a moist climate. I had a similar issue which lead to a replacement of clutch master and slaves, only to find out that didn't fix the issue. what we had to to rock the car back and forth, in neutral, and in gear with the clutch out. It took two guys to get enough movement. After about 10 minutes of this, we heard a "clunk" and everything went back to normal. Good Luck.

Okay, so I took a few too many pictures of the Gremlin. But, they are getting rare, and it's probably been 10-12 years since I'd seen one. I can't speak for the Porsche Spyder, but the owner of the GT40 will tell you that it is a "Real GT40" but not an "Original GT40". Something to do with an official licensing deal with the maker. It was really nice.

Today was a great day in Gainesville, FL for Bill Coffey's Garage Party #9. I'm sure that everyone in attendance would like to Thank Bill for his generous hospitality, and for putting on this great show. There was an exceptional array of cars. The Suncoast Z Car Club and South Florida Z Car Club both showed up in force. Enjoy a few pics here, and make sure to click on the link to see the entire album. Link to the Bill Coffey Garage Party #9 Picture Album ==> Bill Coffey's Garage Party #9 Pics

Survey Says! So the effort of changing the Clutch Master and Slaves was well worth it, although the actual problem was exactly what Carl said it would be. Firstly, the parts order from MotorSports Auto came quickly and at a reasonably good price. All parts were as expected, in new condition, and as ordered. Parts removal went in the following order: Remove the clip from the line connector where the hydraulic hard line meets the slave cylinder rubber line. Disconnect the two lines at the connector and let drain. Remove the Slave cylinder bolts and remove the slave from the tranny. Disconnect the Master cylinder from the clutch pedal (easier said than done). Disconnect the Master cylinder hard line Remove the Master cylinder nuts and washers and remove the master from the firewall. Installation was mostly the reverse. Make sure to connect the Slave cylinder rubber line to the slave cylinder before reinstalling the slave. Before connecting the Slave cylinder hard line to the slave cylinder rubber line, follow Carl's instructions to flush out the hard line. Amazing how much crap came out of the line. I reconnected the hard and rubber hydraulic lines and let the slave cylinder gravity bleed before actually performing a push-pedal bleed with the help of my wife. Problem was that after all of that, with almost 5cm movement on the clutch fork, the car still leaped forward when I tried to start it. This meant that the clutch and flywheel had somehow frozen together, which seemed impossible since I had driven and parked it just 1 1/2 hours before this problem first happened. In any event, I put the car into 4th gear and with the help of my next door neighbor, we pushed the car forward and backward 4-5 times. We were able to skid the wheels in my garage. I then got back in, with the car in gear and the clutch in, I turned the key and although it leapt forward, we heard a small "clunk". Next time I turned the key, it started right up with the clutch pedal in. I immediately took it out for a run. I need to adjust the clutch pedal a little bit, but I think the problem is solved. Lesson learned: Drive it at least once a week during the humid Florida summer time. Thanks for everyone's help on the forum.

The parts arrived from Motorsports Auto in just 4 days! Let the fun begin. Damn I wish I had a lift! On a side note. The DOT5 fluid in the master reservoir is a bit brown, and since I am replacing everything I would like to clean out the hard hydraulic line. I searched the forums, but didn't see any discussions about this. How Would You Do It?

I will be able to let you know in a few days. I just ordered the clutch slave from Motorsport Auto. According the they guy I spoke with, it should fit just fine since I already have the clutch fork with the hole in it. This version of the clutch slave is adjustable. Later versions are not and have a solid clutch folk. I'll post the results of the parts swap once I am done.

Got It! I wish I could provide that information, unfortunately, the tranny/clutch combination were in the car when I bought it, and the tranny has never been off of the car. I'm going to start with the obvious work that I feel comfortable doing myself. If it comes to dropping the tranny, I'll have to take it to a really good tranny shop nearby that has worked on my Supra Turbo. I'll refer to Blue's thread since that looks like very relevant information.

I thought I answered post 4 just a moment ago, and no I have not tried extending the adjustable link

thanks for the replies so far, the real problem that I am having is with the car in gear and clutch pressed in the car will lurchforward when I turn the key. if I take the car out of gear, it will start no problem, but won't shift into gear without grinding. the clutch fork will move 11 millimeters so there's pressure in the hydraulic system. any ideas on how best to troubleshoot this, thoughts?

I realize that this is one of those posts that is probably going to generate more questions than answers. I have an S30 with a 5-speed transmission. What I am trying to determine is the distance that the Clutch fork should move when the clutch is pushed in. I don't have any info on the tranny other than from the pictures that I am attaching here. The problem that I am having is that the clutch is not disengaging the transmission. I measure the throw on the fork and it only moves 11mm, which looks to be only about have the distance that it could travel. I understand that there are numbers on the top of the bell housing that would tell me the exact tranny model, but I want to hold off on dropping, unless it is absolutely necessary. Any help would be appreciated.

While we are on the topic of trannys, I want to replace the clutch master and slave cylinders on my S1, but I have a 5 speed. Shopping at the ZStore.com, it looks like there are about 7 different clutch master and slave cylinders set-ups. What would be the best way to make sure I buy the correct Master and Slave Cylinders for the car?

Nice!

Most Friday nights I take my S1 (HLS30-17269) out for a run up an down the beach. This Friday, as usual, we stopped by Ricky T's for a bite to eat. So far, so good. Unfortunately, when we'd decided to go home, I pushed in the clutch, turned the key, and she (the car) lurched forward. After some fiddling, I realized that there was NO CLUTCH. I had to be towed home (Thanks Hagerty's) and tried to diagnose the problem on Saturday. There is a lot of hydraulic fluid on the Tranny housing, but I could not see an obvious leak either on the Clutch Master or Clutch Slave cylinders. I tried to find a leak in the slave hose, but couldn't find it. To make life easy, I am going to clean and replace the entire clutch hydraulic system, since I really don't know when it was done last, or anything about the parts and workmanship. I wanted to ask my Forum Friends about all the parts you'd put on your shopping list if you were going to rebuild the clutch hydraulics from scratch. I'd prefer not to make this like some of my home improvement projects where I end up running to Home Depot 2-3 times before I finish. Thanks for your Help! Tony V. Largo, FL

Frank, My condolences for your loss. But, I am very glad to know that you came out of the tragedy non-the-less for wear. Let us know how the community can support you in your efforts to put four wheels back onto the road. We'll all be interested to know how well Hagerty's takes care of you, since many of us in the club use Hagerty's services. Tony

My Bad...You are correct. I don't disagree, Ted should spend the money if he has it. But if the budget is $2K-$3K there are a quite a few potentials on Craigslist that will need some work, but aren't disintegrating. Ted, but if you do the Craigslist thing, make sure to find a Z-guy who can physically go look at the car for you.

I just took a quick look on Craigslist in Tampa and see that Z-Docs has a nice $2000 S1. Add about $1K for transport and you've got a decent Z. http://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/ctd/2867258010.html