Leeroy

I have a 260 2+2 with standard head and seats, and I run it on PULP...never a prob, just don't using standard unleaded...its shite!:classic:

Agreed, L28 turbo by far the easier and cheaper option...if u did want to keep the L24 though, best to go with a T3 (garrett sizing), or something perhaps a little larger (though a T3 would be the most 'streetable' option. Get the engine rebuild with 8:1 compression pistons (or head gasket thickened), and for sure get FI (motec is best!). Get the injectors from a 13B rotary (or the manifold with injectors from a L28T (I think it fits?!)) and make a custom intake and you'll be laughing...oh, and fit at least a 3" exhaust...the bigger the better with a turbo engine... Or you could get an L28 (and fit a unichip piggieback computer to tune it properly(!))...know what i'd do!:classic: Hope this helps!(?) Cheers ppl!

I'm not saying that an RB30 or 26 wouldn't fit, I'm just saying for ease, power, weight and ready supply of inexpensive spares, an RB20 or 25 are best...26's fit but are less common, and 30's are heavier and more inefficient (the money spent on changing the head and getting a custom stud set + intercooler for it would be much better spent on other mods to the other engines). Just my 2cents...not discouraging anyone from anything (its all good! They're Z's, so its exceedingly difficult to make them 'uncool'), cause in the end its all about what the owner wants!! Cheers people!!!

Too heavy, too old...no rb30...the best fitment is an RB20DET from an R32 Gts-t...easy fit, fairly light and still plenty of room for power...RB25 and 26 does fit, but alot harder to fit, alot more expensive and if you fit the RB20 you can sit it far back in the engine bay which means more space under the hood for cooling, and better handling due to less weight over the front axle...so there! Hope this helps

26ounce, you're right...and in case anyone ever bitches about speed cameras, don't even think of living in Australia! The cameras in Victoria now get you for doing 3km/h(!!) over the speed limit even though the ADR's (australian design rules) state that all speedos can be within 10% tolerance...contradiction itself! Not only that, but when the victorian government was deciding what to do with the money designated for 'black spots', they decided that putting the $25 million (!!!!) into speed cameras would be a better idea to help stop fatalities and accidents! If that isn't the stupidest thing I have ever heard!!! And (surprisingly...) the number of accidents and fatalities has not decreased according, or even at all, due to the speed cameras placed in our roads. The pigs now have unmarked vehicles of all makes and models (and ages) on the roads with speed cameras setup on the front bumper (about 40cm long, 25cm tall and a couple of cms thick), so all they have to do is park somewhere, eat donuts for a few hours and get some fines...no-one even knows that they're there..pisses me off...and it must be dangerous because everyone has to constantly keep an eye on their speedo!!...sorry bout the long message...

Hard question...ok, heres trying... If I won that much money I'd have 3 classics... 1. 240z in sky blue with race seats, race harnesses and full roll cage with a red GT stripe flanked by 2 smaller white stripes, the # 23 on the bonnet and doors, 15" minilite rims powder coated white with polished deep dish inserts, full koni adjustable coil overs, front and rear strut braces, stiffer front and rear swaybars, full nolathane job...ok, now the engine: fuel injection L24 bored out 40thou, balanced and blueprinted, shotpenned crank, forged pistons and rods, deburred block, 272/270 cam (read:lumpy!), stiffer valve springs with 3 angle valve set, decompressed to 8:1 with a T76-33D ball bearing garrett hanging onto the 3 1/2" exhaust making in the vicinity of 800hp (and a ****eload of torque!!!) 2. 260z 2+2, jet black, deep dish WELD 17" billet wheels with DUMPED suspension, chrome anything that can be chromed, full black leather interior retrim, purple neons underneath the car, fuel injected L26 balanced and blueprinted, lumpier cam (but still quite docile) with a nice little stereo. 3. 260z, maranello red, lowered 2" with simmons F15 rims, stock engine (just fully balanced and blueprinted), with everything else bought back to better than new condition. So there! Oh yeah, and a spare 350z in the garage for going to fetch the milk.

Sorry its not a Z part, but anyway.... The stereo consists of thus; - X tant 404m amp with remote gain control - JVC 12" self illuminating subwoofer - Sony head unit The amp and the sub have never been used, and the head unit has been used (just upgraded it). Retail cost is well over $2000, and believe me I'm pissed I gotta sell it all, but going price is $900. I'm in melbourne, Australia (glen waverley) so give me a call or e-mail me: 0409-626-403 or bad_leeroy_brown@hotmail.com.

Okay...not an expert, but I know a fair bit about engine especially fuel injection...everyone here is right, fuel injection is WAY(!) better than carbs (I have carbs so I'm not bragging)...simply put, a carb is a mechanical form of injection using four different sensors/ways of determining fuel delivery and delivering it, it works off of what it thinks the engine should get, Fi uses a computer which for any given point in the rev range has a pre determined amount of fuel that it knows it has to deliver to the engine, this base figure then gets messed around a little depending on the a number of factors...this is the easiest way I can explain it without going into detail....BUT, as I probably should have said earlier, your cam (if fairly lumpy[which it will need to be to run 13's]) will make your idle really bad! Black smoke will be coming out for sure!! What I recommend is this: Build your engine and get everything fitted (for bulletproof engine, get it balanced and blueprinted!) and then take your original ECU to get either reprogrammed (cheapest, but not cheap), or get a piggy-back (ie Unichip) or stand alone ECU (ie Motec). Reprogramming will do fine (really, it will) and cheapest doesn't mean bad, but an aftermarket ECU is the best way to go. If you ever do anything in future or want everything to be easily tuned and accessed then this is the way to go. The unichip would be the easiest aftermarket ECU, and simply hooks up with the old ECU, but a Motec is the ultimate (read: Can be pricey!) ECU though. The original injectors should be fine if you keep it NA, but if you ever force it you'll want bigger ones....Hope this helps (sorry its so long!). Cheers!

Not being a bastard...but its du hast....anyway, wankers with the most stupid fuc%in stickers!! ie 'horn broken, watch for finger', 'get in sit down shut up hold on' etc This is what I like to call a cheap body kit...makes ppl look at you but gets either a) laugh reaction (idiots and ppl who drive ford falcons) or disgust reactions (most ppl, all z drivers)...and drift, LOVE DRIFT!! I used to drift my magna at 80km/h down dirt read (piece of ****e!), but now with my Z its tarmac everywhere!!! Drift rocks(!), and rain, I would have to say, makes me drive crazy (around good drift corners anyway!!!) Cheers ppl!!:classic:

Keep the heat in the exhaust!! Keeping the headers and upper exhaust hot is good because hotter air escapes faster and allows for more flow SO more power!! Having not used header tape I couldn't give an opinion, but I've heard fantastic things about it..also if you do want to use it there is some spray on paint that the same company provides to waterseal the tape and preserve it so that it lasts longer! Otherwise, the wrap works great (I also suggest that over the top of the wrap you bolt in a heatshield [thin piece of metal, at least 5mm away from the wrap] that directs the heat coming from the headers down and under the car...you can't reduce the heat the header makes, but you can choose where you wan't to put it, and not under your bonnet!!). Also, your header won't warp unless its heated enough to nearly melt it, or if after a fast run (whilst its still hot) you decide to throw icy water over it (hot + cold = bending/warping). 'Thermotec' heat management products are available pretty much anywhere, and are all good quality...so unless you're only into a particular product, I highly recommend that you try them!! Cheers!!:classic: PS Sorry about the long message, but I couldn't make it any shorter!!

Category 1!!! I'm 19 but like most of you have a maturity level of age 2...then again as soon as you hop into a Z all thought of constraint and being mature and environmentally minded goes straight out the window...is it just me, or is that how every1 else feels?

Could someone please help me with my lack of knowledge?! What is the exact type of carburettor that is fitted to the australian delivered 240z and 260z's? ie HS6, HS4....I know that they are SU side draught carbies, but what is their size and model designation? Cheers!!

Sorry I missed the meeting (though I'm sure everyone was really distraught), I was just wondering when the next one was going to take place, and whether or not mike would be there?! Cheers everyone!

I was going to say, it seriously looks standard once fitted...its basically an opaque tank that once installed (ie properly!) looks like it should have always been there (albeit a bit newer than whats in the engine bay)...but yeah, my 2 cents anyway! Cheers!!

Yeah, an inexpensive (ie Less than $70 for an entire bolt-in kit) kit is available from autobarn/repco and is pretty much about as simple and clean as it gets. All you have to do is find (or drill) 1 hole to bolt it in and splice (i think) a hose and voila!, you have yourself a clean, easy (1 hour, at most!!!) kit that does the job admirably! Tell me how you get on if you use it, its a damn good cheap fix (sorry but I can't remember the brand!:stupid: ) Cheers!