ZcarsRock

thanks for the great comments! ( dozen horses? or roses? ) anyways looks like a Centerforce clutch is in my future. There is an auto skills club i belong to at Ft Riley, they have all the tools/car lift, engine hoist, etc and mechanics on staff that will help. The cost is 3 dollars an hour and that includes all the special tools and their expertise. Wonder how much time i can expect to take. zcarsrock

sounds reall expensive. I have in my budget about $600.oo for a major repair. I am thinking of bidding on an aluminum fly-wheel i saw on ebay, and a dual friction clutch and associated throw-out bearing. if this requires an engine removal, then i want my pals at car quest to do it...... Do i have enough budgeted? and any suggestions on the best clutch/brg/fly-wheel? thanks zcarsrock! hey i was at my neighborhood licquer store, and this hot babe age 35ish wants to talk Z's to me, wants to buy my car..., i turn her down..

my engine head is an E88, but the manafold indicates N33, the ports appear to be round!!!!! is this right? Tony zcarsrock!!

i got a 90 civic blower at the junkyard for 35 bucks(original new part costs $198.00) I installed it and it fit almost, i had to widen one bolt hole about 2mm and then it fit right in there, its way faster and quieter. I have a problem with the duckwork in my car though and get way to little air from the vents......wondering what to do to fix this. Any ideas? Tony zcarsrock!

Heres my issue, i try to get my car to break loose on a favorate patch of asphault near my home(farm country, little traffic) I rev the engine in 1st gear to about 5200rpms, then let out the clutch, there is no peeling out, no grab, just a slight whif of burning rubber(from the clutch?) and the car eases forward slowley at first then i feel it grab and i'm off. The car in 4th gear sometimes experiences an increase in rpm's with no increase in gas pedal pressure. Do i need a clutch? should i get a new fly wheel also? what about the dual friction clutches i hear about? Thanks for your help. Tony

To the guy thats always ragging on me about my wal-mart purchases....I also go to AutoZone. I saw some really nice Bosch plugs(They had 4 heads to be gapped.....looked pretty cool Are they? keep up the comments about racing and such, seems a pretty touchy subject. Tony

looks like i blew it, i only bid 30 bucks, hope i loose this one Tony

guess i'll keep looking for acorns then...... they are hard to find. thanks

I bid on a set of chrome headers on ebay. They are off a 1978 280z i think. they have round exhaust holes and the pipes are 2" diameter. Well these things fit my 1972 240z? i sure hope so!!! oh yeah and there is a place in Salina Kansas called Industrial Refinishings, they will triple chrom about anything for a very reasonable price.

Check it out ebay.com has one for sale the bid ends in like 8 days or so. Think high bid now is 50 bucks or so. Junk yards usually punch holes in gas tanks to drain fuel for safety reasons. Is your tank leaking? I had that problem but i fixed it my self. Let me know if you wanna hear how i did this.

You guys always have the best comments!!!! I dont understand whats the matter with splitfires? I hear they fire better and more constistantly than NGK's. At $6.84 per pair they better do something really good!!! Hey did i tell you about the guy at the auto shop i go to, he is Chinese and he complimented me on my car. Even gave me these two really kool chinese word stickers. Said they mean "Speed Attitude" Think i'll find an appropriate place to put them on my Z and take a pic and post it. Oh one last think, anyone ever use Lucas Oil Stabilizer in there manual tranny? I just dumped a 32 oz bottle in there with 32 oz of Slick 50 80-90wt gear oil. I think i slightly over filled the capacity but should be ok. Tony

Hi guys, I was on ebay and noticed there are really spiffy sets of Krypton bulb conversion kits for the 240z. (cost around 40-50 bucks) It appears these kits come with a flat 7" round Lense with a plastic housing and rubber bulb holder. So here is my question. My original sealed beam housing is rusted thru in places and gives me fits when i changed the headlights this weekend. I am wondering if this conversion to krypton is a good idea? Is the current draw less than halogen? or should i just suck it up and try to deal with old rusted housings:) Thanks in advance Tony

What can i say, i'm 40 years old, and i felt a twinge of testosterone when the punk revved his 4 banger:) anyways i dont usually stoop the the drag race at the light thing... Hey i checked each plug and found 2 bad ones and some with carbon buildup. I bought a fresh set of Splitfires and new plug wires...the car runns like a dream now. Thanks to my wife for caughing up the $34.83 at walmart:) .

I just finished flushing and changing the engine and tranny oil. I used Slick 50 in the engine and the best synthetic oil i could find(Castrol Syntex) I used gear oil and Lucas oil stabalizer for the transmission. So I'm on the road in town and i find my self first at the traffec light when a guy in a little Honda Prelude pulls up. He is with his girl and is revving his engine(four cylinder with the big fat goofy exhaust tip) So, i figure, ok, GAME ON!!! The light turns gree and i pop the clutch...(slower than i usually do) but we are neck and neck then it happens, i hear a back fire and my car slows down...he pulls ahead and i'm pissed...i notice this happening as i hit 2nd at 3500 rpms sometimes...what is it? vacume leak? bad gas? poor spark plug? what? HELP Tony

Thanks for the comments. I love the z, mine is just something to keep me occupied till i get my new 350z when i return from Bosina next year. Wonder if you have any need for an old original 72 steering wheel and shifter nob:) Tony

1st, i am the only one who drives my car. I let my wife ride with me but i never go over 65mph. Hey i was at t traffic light in Topeka last saturday, and some dude and his gal pull along side me in there BMW M3, ( bout a 98 or so) anyway he starts to rev is engine, so i think Game on!!! I dont look at him, but focus on the light, i see the yellow for the other street and i get set. As our light turns green i'm at like 5,000 rpm, i pop the clutch in perfect condition and my tires squeel as i lurch ahead..... the guy is right off my left rear and i'm thinking, yeah!!!! look at you now! gettin your arse handed to you by an old tired 240z!!! Anyways i lay off the gas after about 200 meters and this dude just races by me, probably all pissed off:) I pull into my favorite bar and have a drink on my old beat up foam fillez 240z:) Tony...

Ok so i'm driving to work at 5am and its still dark, and raining like a cow pissing on a flat rock. (I'm in the army and have to show up ro PT {physical training}, all of a sudden the headlights and gauge lights get reall bright, then there is a flash and both head lights go out. All other lights work, so i think i blew 2 fuses? and i check em but they are both intact. I just bought these 2 hologen lights at Autozone In Abeline Kansas a month ago. Hey long story short, i take both lights back to AZ and the manager gives me 2 more lights, and does not even bug me for a reciept, and says good luck I have replaced both lights and have replaced some electrical connecters as well, also i insulated the headlight housing with some great stuff foam just in case. Any idea what else i should check? i hope it was just a freak occurrance. Thanks in advance Tony

Thanks Kmack, now that you mention that i remember a slight whif of burnt plastic while i spastically turned the ignition key. So this fuseable link is nothing more that a 16gauge wire? running to the starter? Where does it connect to from the starter? to the ignition terminal? I sure hope this is all it is. you guys are great!! Tony

thanks George, how can i determine if my fuseable links are blown? and do they sell new ones at autozone? Thanks in advance. Tony

Ok it was fine till this morning and here is what happend. I started the car and it idled fine for a few seconds, then died, i recranked it and pulled full choke to warm it up. Initially the engine revved to about 2500 rpms just fine, but then it started sputtering like it was fireing on about one or maybe 2 cylinders for several seconds, so i shut it off. I went to restart it and the rear dome light blew out and the car would not so much as crank over. I charged the battery and replaced both battery cables, but there is nothing i turn the key and no lights no click, no nothing. All fuses are intact as well. My daughter and i pushed the car the 300 feet to the Car Quest Shop in our town...Any ideas? Please help as it is my only ride to work for the next week.

this car is AWSOME, i'll be going to Bosnia for a year, and durring that year, i'll be saving my meager Army salery to purchase one in cash when i get back. I just hope they stay under 30,000 bucks after the first year back. GET MORE PICS POSTED PLEASE!!!

I have a 72 240z and have inspected my unibody/frame rails etc. I compared my underbody metal thickness to an early 71 240z, It seems that unless its was my imagination or my micrometer has an error, the newer 240s seem to average one mm thicker in several key areas of the unibody supporting underbody structures. I can get exact mills, but i lost my sheet. dang. Anyhooo, seems the newer z's have better metal