St.stephen

rick, just drop me a line and let me know how much you are looking to get. I am a registered paypal user and live in NJ so shipping would be no problem. Thanks! Kevin

semi-chrome has worked wonders for me

if anyone has a set of 72 SU's please drop me a line!!!!!!!!1 k.c.ziemba@worldnet.att.net kcziemba@household.com

due to some common sense, it looks like I answered my own question. I would have to use the 74 distributor unless I was converting either the whole car to fi, or wanted to splice parts in.

Please do not leave out the pressure regulator on top of the fuel rail! This little nuisance loves to create problems.

need a little direction.. intalling a 78 2+2 L28 and plan on 72 SU's in an early 74260. My question is which harness should I install as I am concerned on the disributor hookup?

persoanlly, I cannot beleive that I am even helping with this as any butchering of a Z car makes me cringe, however if you have to have a chevy V8 stuffed in a car that was never meant to have it than so be it. All 2+2's had the R200 rear. If you are not sure what ratio R200 you have lying around then perform the following: Remove the rear plate and then rotate the large ring gear until you see numbers stamped on the edge facing you 3.54 will read "39:11" 3.70 " " "37:10" 3.90 " " 39:10" 4.11 " " 37:9

Honestly that really is up to you, your budget, time, and storage needs. Honestly, I am a fanatic with these cars and would buy and save every last one if I had my way. Trouble with the paint begining to blister after 8 years really could be a number of things, or just a few combinations. you would have to ask more about the paint that was applied, surface prep done, perhaps types of primer. Some types of paint are more resistant and flexible than other. The hatch is a typical place for these cars to rot, Dude...basically the entire car is likely to rot. There isn't one place on any Z car I have seen that has raised an eyebrow about "how did that rust get there" The battery tray..Well I expect to see rust there. You need to thouroughly check the car out top to bottom to see evidence of rot, bad floor and frame rail repairs. Check the inner fender wells especially above where the rubber brake line sits and where the frame rail meets the firewall on the inside of the engine compartment. Those crannies tend to trap leaves. Also check UNDERNEATH the battery tray as well as the outside where the frame rail meets where the floor toe board and compression rod meet. The rad support and even in the cowl collect leaves and moisture and can make short work of the metal. Physically get under the car too. Pull up the carpets inside if the owner will let you. LETS SEE THOSE FLOORS! There is no sense in buying a beautiful car to later learn that it's swiss cheese underneath and you h ave to be where you already are with your 240 in the garage. Atleast if you do it yourself, you know what was put into it and what was done. Bondo, clean paint and undercoating can hide a nightmare.

Dude if that's the only rust you can find you certainly found your "cream puff". The rot in the hatch area pictured is textbook for the Z. It's fixable by cutting that out and welding in a patch. Not hard by any means with a mig welder, some patch metal and a little time. The sills under the door are another favorite spot. Fixable for sure. However the sooner you take care of it the better. Some rust reversal solution will solve the problem, and while there are many brands available to you some are better than others. Let me see what I have in the garage and what I can recommend to you. PREVENT FLOOR ROT AS SOON AS YOU CAN!!!

I would take the carbs and intake in a second if you are looking to part with them! kcziemba@household.com k.c.ziemba@worldnet.att.net

anyone know of an easier way to remove the undercoating other than a few choice expletives and a scraper?

some things I did forget to mention, I see in the engine pic, that there seems to be some debris on the bottom of the rad support (unless that is ground below it). If there is leaves and twigs and such, get out the air compressor and blow all that out. A cream puff on the outside will not hide moisture damage on a car that has not been moving for a while. If there was a battery in the car ever since, check the battery tray and underneath it on the firewall as the battery loves to rot Z cars there. Give a good look into the cowl too. If you can, remove the wipers and the phillips screws and take off the cowl. That is a great place for leaves to collect and water never seems to drain from there. It can rot very easily in there as the leaves decompose. The inner fender wells are a wonderful place for rust to show it;s ugly head. In that area, it's wise to get out the screwdriver and start poking around. Rust happens underneath the undercoating first. Also do the same when you climb underneath the car to check the floors and under the rockers. I would also remove the seats and peel up the carpet to check the floors and toe boards as well. This is really going to give a good idea of where to start as to what repairs need to be done to save your new baby!! let me congratulate you on a nice looking car though!! Having four of these, I am never surprised where the rust hides itself.

Derk, I have to congratulate your fantastic find. Well you have done step one already and that is give that badass a bath, spit shine and clean that interior!! Suck down a couple beers and enjoy the smile!! Then on to the next step. I have owned 4 Z cars in total and everyone I have purchased has sat for longer than any relationship I have ever been in. After cleaning them up and proving the car doesn't look as bad as it did..... I start the hunt. I never worry about starting the car first. I initially check to see that the motor isn;t seized. The one in my 260 was. If so, as stated some MArvel MYstery oil or even ATF down the plugs will work to unlock the motor. A half inch breaker bar on the balancer nut after the fluid has been sitting over a day or two should do the trick. Give a visual check on all the electrical you can. inside and out. YOu have the benefit of knowing the previous owner so he can comment on any quirks it had, however you can't talk to the mice that may be been living in it while in storage. you commented on the tank having gas in it for 13 years. I would Drain and drop that thing!! you most likely have some sort of sludgy kerosene in there and as soon as you try and start that car, you will pull that **** through the pump in the tank, on to the filter and whatever is left on to the carbs!!! Once you drain the tank, take it to have it checked for internal rust. with Fuel in there for 13 years, there is going to be condensation from the temp changes in the barn so hello rust. If the tank needs repair now is the time to do it. check all the fuel lines for signs of rot. Mine on the 260 rotted at the firewall. My car was sitting since 1985 =(. Clean the carbs, & change the fuel filter! I say this is critical cause any sort of debris you suck from the tank to the carbs is gonna give you a WORLD of frustration with inconsistant running and stalling. After I had the tank reinstalled and the pump cleaned and what not, I would take the fuel delivery line and put it in a gas can, remove the coil wire, and crank the motor. let the fuel pulse out into the can so you can flush the fuel lines a bit and check for debris. Before you drive the car, check all the brakes, rubber and steel hoses. Pull the rear wheels off and check for leaky wheel cylinders. Honestly I could go on, however my best advice is to give the car a THOROUGH once over before you get going. I had my first Z car (78 280) when I turned 20 and was sooooo excited. I cranked it over and it started and was driving as soon as I could. 6 pressure regulaters later from the crap in the tank, brake lines, water pump, and a host of not serious issues, but frustrating had me on the side of the road enough times to learn.

hello everyone. I just stumbled across this site and had to register!!! I have been a long time Z fiend and currently am restoring an early model 74 260. RLS30-039721. (what's left of it) I had been driving for many, many years a 78 2+2 which is now givin it's life up for the better. The rockers, floors, rear wheel arches and the deck lip underneath the hatch is completely wasted.....sooooooo the old bear is being retired and stripped. The rock solid wonderfully maintained L28 is being transferred to the 260. I will ditch the FI for a set of 72 carbs, swap the current 4 speed for the 5, and the R-200 rear now has a new home. Along with that, I have already purchased 1" up front and 7/8" rear sway bars, one inch lowered tokico springs and new tokico struts. Urethane bushings all the way around. Brand new brake lines rubber and steel, rear spindle pins, wheel bearings, all pertinent seals, and u-joints. Fenders, floors, front and rear corners and new passenger rocker panel completes the body parts. Now I need to stop staring at everything and the gutted 260 shell and GET TO WORK!