503Alex

Does anyone have any recommendations for someone to rebuild my N47 head? Thanks, Alex

Thanks for the info!

I searched all over for this info, forgive me if I missed it. I'm looking to confirm the exact size on the fuel hose used for the fuel pump feed and exit to damper and hardline. I found this picture on AtlanticZ to demonstrate what I'm talking about: I'm looking to get both of the hose sizes represented here. I'm pretty sure it's 3/8", and 5/16", but I'd just like to be sure before I tear it down and empty the lines. I'm doing a Walbro GSL392 inline setup like this using the stock bracket: Thanks in advance.

Thanks for the comments. The alternator ended up going out for one reason or another after all of this, so I never ended up using the new VR. I traced the wiring to look for issue and cleaned all of the grounds. I ended up getting an '82 ZX alternator and doing the swap. Everything works nicely now and the volt gauge is constant.

Interesting update to this, I sent BD a photo of the wiring on my regulator and told them part of the pin out on to confirm that it was right, and they ended up sending me out a new regulator. The new regulator is wired completely different.

I'll break out the voltmeter and do some investigating.

I just checked out the harness connector yesterday again and pin #2 is the white/red wire, sorry for the confusion. I ended up cleaning the contacts on the alternator with some contact cleaner and traced the white/red wire to the alternator and everything is hooked up as intended.

Really appreciate all of the help. I think an IR alternator is a good choice. I agree, it definitely seems like the black/white is the intended ground wire in the wrong slot. I just emailed BD with this picture to see if it's possibly wired wrong.

Is it possible the VR was improperly wired? Although it does seem odd that the same wired that fried was cut short on my previous VR and not soldered, and that the new VR works fine.

Yeah, it is quite odd. I went and confirmed that the only way is plug it in is the way that I had it due to the directional plug. I think what happened is the manufacturer of the new VR decided to not use the same color wires as the harness uses. I checked and the wire that the black/white wire that fired is connected to is indeed the white/red (A) wire in the diagram.

Steve, thanks for the clarification, for some reason I misinterpreted the picture and though that the VR connector and harness connector were numbered differently. It's definitely the #2 pin then. I have a voltmeter to check that with.

Thanks for the help. The wire that burnt out is the #6 on the voltage regulator connector (to the left of the top on the connector) and #2 on the harness connector. I also found this link (http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html) which seems to shed some light on the differences in wiring between the years, and from what it looks like, it's the "A" wire on the '77.

I had a bad regulator on my '77 (bouncing volt gauge) and ended up buying a new one off of BD. Oddly enough when I took the old one out, one of the wires from the 6 connector was not soldered to the regulator and was cut short. I though that was odd, so I jumpered that wire and it sounded like it may have been the cold start injector, although I am unsure. I received the new regulator from BD and installed it today. When it got power, the regulator let out a bug puff of smoke. Turns out that the wire that burned out was the same wire that was cut short and not soldered on the previous regulator. The good news is that the gauge is steady now at the appropriate voltage (for now at least). Any idea what the disconnected wire in this picture that burned out goes to? (black wire) It is cut off so it doesn't become a fire hazard. I need to figure out what the electrical issue is before I reconnected/re-solder that connection. I've looked through the wiring diagrams in the FSM pretty extensively but haven't found it. Thanks in advance for the help!

I found this one also: http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/ctd/2198952829.html Not sure if they'll be parting it out.

I need to get some of this, I've been using the same tools as you with no dry ice and it's taking forever.

Crazy story! I enjoyed the read, glad you got it home.

I am kind of confused by the other entries. Mine is a 4/77 car with VIN 384896, yet there is a 3/77 car with VIN 385737 and a 6/77 car with 381610.

This is a fantastic car, I followed the build for the last bit. BTW, that's the reserve he has asked $125k for it.

Very nice, lots of work into this. I especially like how the air cleaner turned out, really clean.

Good info! I've been drooling over that Z. I might just have to save up and buy some of the new ones. From what Arne says it may be a one piece cast as opposed to the original two piece forged. That's a bit of a bummer, but it will still be pretty light I'm sure.

Great post David. I'm an S30 owner and am a fan of the S130. We're all part of the Z family!

Great info, thanks for the help!

I'm looking at a set of Enkei 92 wheels for my Z that are 14x6 ET 33. Am I correct in assuming I would need at least a 20-30 mm spacer on these for good fitment? I'm not a fan of running big spacers, but I figured it was a good deal for these at $250 w/ tires. Also, anyone know a good place to find spacers if I end up going that route? Thanks, Alex

Sounds like I've got a pretty similar car to you and I'm also in Oregon!

Good choice! Especially with the manual adjustments.