yetterben

I disagree here john. I have had a rusty 72 gmc truck frame outside of my poll shed for 8 years. I sprayed it with por15 back then. It still solid and has not shown any signs of further rust damage. Now there was no holes just surface rust mind you.

. These gauges are the suck 30+ years old. If you where that hot you would here it boiling after you shut the car off.

Fuel Filter.

per phone conversation 135-140 mains 200 air's f-11 tubes. Throttle blades dead center of last progression hole. Idle mixture screws 1/2-1 turn out. If more than that start to look at bigger idle jet. Get those chokes out verify size 30's are small not much top end. 33 good top end low end suffers below 3 grand at more than 1.4 throttle. Get stacks gotta gotta have them. I have a set of 200 correctors i will trade for those 170's I actually have a set of 140's i see. 15 bucks for those. Call me if yah wanna send them out.

Timing should be around 34-36 all in run 91+ octane. No vacuum advance. If connected to a log vacuum source its not a strong enough signal. It will scatter timing all over at cruise. Here is my setup if i can tune this in for 400+ hp you can do a N/A l24 Here is the complete list of idle jet air bleed holes in order from rich to lean F6 (richest), F12, F9, F8, F11, F13, F2, F4, F5, F7, F1, F3 (leanest)

per phone conversation 135-140 mains 200 air's f-11 tubes. Throttle blades dead center of last progression hole. Idle mixture screws 1/2-1 turn out. If more than that start to look at bigger idle jet. Get those chokes out verify size 30's are small not much top end. 33 good top end low end suffers below 3 grand at more than 1.4 throttle. Get stacks gotta gotta have them. I have a set of 200 correctors i will trade for those 170's

I am not gonna say anything i all ready have not told you

there is nothing wrong with not using vacuum advance. I have mine set to 32 all in buy 3,000 no loss of power at all.

power train on something like that takes a sidestep to the man hours involved in its creation. Sure ls1 would be nice but whatevs.

Any shop worth there salt can correct any image size you give them. With that just find what ever you can, have it corrected to your liking.

BUSTED in contact now

I cast my vote. Its one of the nicest z's on the planet.

I am rethinking this a little i think i might be to rich on the top end as after the last pull i can removed said deposits down to factory color/material. They look kinda wet when i remove them as well. The car runs like a farking top. Prior to this i was running Su's with sm needles so those might have been what was running rich. Plugs looks okay nice and tan.

Pistons tops seem to be covered in a white ash....taking a q tip to them cleans them down to the factory color. I am running way to lean on the top end? triple webers just installed today. Fully rebuilt. Car pulls and runs like no tomorrow it may be if i burn a piston . 200 air 140 main 33 choke 4.5 venturi.

Same here mine is currently insured for 12 grand. Not bad seeing as how i paid under 3 for it painted it and a few other things.

nada for baseline

i will call it good to go then. Thanks guys> Its been a major headache and this forum is a major life saver. Next up is the triple Weber and blow through turbo install hehehe what a nightmare.

so youre telling me its fine to roll down the road with two or threads on the pin

what about when the car is rolling

completely original not un molested cracks me up. so does the picture with the 666 inverted cross

" not unmolested"

with two or three threads shown on the bottom there is still like 4-5mm of bolt sticking out up top.

i will try the removal of the pin and see how far the lock bolt goes then but i can see in the hole the new lock bolt made a gouge in there.

hm.... shinning a light down there reveals a perfect slot. tap the pin one way and its not anymore if you get what i am saying. it will go down about half way just enough for the threads to come out the bottom. I cant for the life me get it in any further with bfh or without.

One of the lock bolts wont go back into place. Yes the pin is in the right way. Seems to be carving a new hole when i pound it in. Like it has a bur on it but it does not. So should i ream the hole or sand the bolt and try again.