yetterben

73 in black. Yes the inside piece.

well i have been here for a few months now time to show off the goods. Car came to me in yellow. Now it is sublime green. Zx motor some sort of grind on the cam. Really nice shape drives like a dream. Thought i would just show it off. Mods sorry if pics are to big. this is how it came to me. this is how it sits now after some loving. ATTENTION DO NOT ADJUST YOUR SET THIS IS NOT A DREAM YOU ARE NOW IN THE TWILIGHT....oh wait its mopar sublime green

What is its official name . Where can they be purchased from?

Also turn both carb adjustment nuts all the way in and back out to 2 1/2 turns. the nuts on the bottom. The base ring of the plug show jetting. I dont care what anyone says about porcelain the base ring where the ground strap is is where you check jetting. You want a light sooty ring 3/4 around that ring. Look it up. But your plugs are oil fouled for sure.

Those plugs look oil covered. There really shiny. Check firing order first. Run a compression test to. Buy the looks of the plugs its not good. the one looks like pepper not good.

Very Very nice. looking forward to the fire up.

It very rarely blows black smoke but grey smoke yes. Burns the eyes but its an old car with no emissions. It pulls hard core all the way like a MUTHA. I pulled number 6 plug again even after idling it does not look the same as 4 or 5. i put a boroscope in 6 to check stuff out. NO leans spots on top of piston. No hot areas either. Carbon buildup but no more than the other cyl. I can see way down in the base of the plug on 6 and it is the right color down there. It just confuses me why 4 5 are tan/brown at idle and 6 is not. ONly thing i can think of is 6 runs hotter on a zx motor? True getting all 6 perfect is not gonna happen i am sure. I love carbs though. FI rocks but trying to keep it old school. Maybe ms the ignition but fuel just plain looks and performs better for me. The z just got back from paint it is actually sublime green mopar. Looks yellow in pics dunno why. But its loud mopar green. I live in muscle car land and have no one to talk to about z's. anyone wants to pitch me there number for a good old fashion z chat please do.

is that vr1 syn? would prefer a dino oil

what are we looking for zinc content? Most of that data is from 91 i am sure alot of oils have changed. I just dont want to hurt my engine

Dont want a argument like all the other oil threads. I have dug threw them and still cant get a good answer. The question at hand: What oil has the zinc etc etc that are cars require. Please list brands ie: castrol blah blah super blah. Not what is better according to gump just what oils have the stuff we need. Thanks.

hit it with 400 dont go threw the gel coat.

I would pull the cam man. I am sure there is gonna be some scars on that lobe. Sucks but no need to half arse it. If you have some cash just get all enw springs and retainers. Thats what i would do anyway fwiw.

I must say this 26 part anime is fantastic. Might be old news to some but i dont know how the people of intial d can make something so good and intial d sucks so bad as far as art. I have a full translated version of the series and even with my broken Japanese it is translated pretty good. the music the art the cgi its all fantastic. I will now seek out the original manga. I know there is a live movie in affect but it wont hold a candle to the anime i am sure. The orginal live action also well um....kinda sucked.

No Doubt a wideband would be good. Its on the list. It was just confusing how it could be so dead on at idle but look weird at wot. Then it hit me at wot or even cruise the plug is so hot it cant leave a mark on the porcelain. I have looked all over the net and this is what people say. MY base ring is nice and brown so jetting is good. The way su's work i thought was linear and that if idle was right then the rest of the band would be right to. Barring any major engine changes that is. i did create this monster as well. <embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://i224.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid224.photobucket.com/albums/dd53/yetterben/movie_01_01.flv"> and after the turbo i tried a camden. It has jsut been a long time since i have messed with a boinger aka piston. You being from oz should understand So i am buy all means not a noob. But judging but previous wideband experience i could look at my plugs at idle and say i am in the 10's rich i know but i feel safer there. I think so much myth is tossed around about plug reading. Here is the car in question.

I have come to the conclusion at wot the plug is to hot to leave soot on the porcelain. So my engine is a little rich at idle but better than to lean.

Carbs are brand new. I have a factory service manual i kn ow how to set the carbs. Sorry if that seems snooty. not a noob with cars. Just confused how i can attain perfect mixture between 500-3000rpms. I also have a uni-syn.

http://www.empirenet.com/pkelley2/sparkplugreading.html

Okay put everything back to stock. b6es-11 plugs. 10btdc su's 2 3/4 turns out. at idle the plugs will turn a nice dark mocha color a little o the rich side. I took her down the back roads for some wot passes threw 1st and 2nd. Shut it off foot still on the gas coasted to side of road. Pulled all plugs. There white. The outter ring is black though. I have always been told the outter ridge near threads is where to look for jetting after wot. Help me out guys. How can it be dead on at idle and go to bone white and wot. On the other hand it pulls like a mother and i would think if it was lean it would throw a fit.

Here is the story. In my quest for power on my 73 i am always fiddling. Always get more power when i fiddle I have a zx motor and dizzy 3 screw su's flamethrower coil. timing set to 14btdc. Here is the question. My plugs where set at .38 or so car was pulling hard. Running a little richer plugs dark dark chocolate. So me being me and cant leave enough alone i opened the plugs up more to .44 or so Power increased exhaust stench did too . Blows mild black when i crack here open at 7 grand. Power is better alot better. But now my plugs are sooty again. Is this a bad thing or did i now effectively make the plug colder buy opening the gap? Should i lean her out a little now with a larger gap? I guess i am curious as to how plug gap directly affects combustion.

what is middle of the gauge in a 240 temp wise. mine has always been one needle above the middle. 185 thermo installed.

i Doubled checked all that and most of it is new. in the end i turned the mixture knob another half a turn. It made the 4 and 5 slightly darker more chocolate and number 6 turned mocha. I guess you cant really have even burn? Today was the first time my car ever revved to 7 grand Is this normal though? can you have even burn? intake mani is a e88 zx motor 3 screw su's zx dizzy flamethrower coil. plugs gapped to .44. the history of the motor is unknown to me. Long term goals are to blowthough the carbs. I have done it on many rx7's with the nikki and with webers just not duals or tripples. I will find a way with oers i am sure. maybe individual hats.

valve clearance is fine i am stumped.

Sorry about that i am running su's. Will check valve clearance on no 6 and post back. I pulled the choke on that carb and the plug turned black so it is getting fuel when i choke it.

Getting my car dialed in to perfection. All my plugs are tanish except no 6 it looks new. It is firing verified spark. I dont get why it would look new. Compression is fine. 4, 5 tanish 6 white electorde looks new with a slight discoloration. When i pulled the old plug out it was dark. Sooty. 4 5 where as well. I am wondering if i need to just up the mixture a tad. Does #6 run lean normally?

Bump new dizzy same thing argh..........