yetterben

The agent told me also that if i think i am gonna go over to call and let them know. I just want a fixed value on my z. Crazy i paid 3grand for a really nice z only to find nada values it at a minimum of 6

I hate to drag a thread back from the dead, but this is always a important topic. I am thinking of going with american collector insurance fro a greed value of 10,000. but am limited to 2,500 miles a year. While this is not a huge issue i am a little worried if i want to drive it more. I mean i always drive my z for pleasure . But what happens if i want to drive it 500 miles is that still for pleasure you bet. Will they see it that way who knows.

Thanks i will. this is on a scrap motor i am trying to get the head off off. Front pulley nut is seized. all i want is the head.

how does one loosen it trying to do it without removing front cover. To remove the sporcket or remove chain from sprocket. Never delt with chain based systems before. How does one remove the sproket nt then? i dont see a hex on the cam to hold it while i crack the nut free.

Some secret here to get this off the cam sprocket?

are the dizzys on these cars slot driven or gear driven? If slot driven than it should not matter how its put back in and you should be able to move plugs wires. Meaning bring motor to tdc and move number 1 plug wire to the spot on cap its gonna fire next and rewire as normal. Hope that makes sense it has worked on other cars with slot drive not gear. After all the dizzy does not care where teh wires are it makes contact in counter clockwise direction. So if the rotor is at 3 o clcok but the motr is tdc then you would just put number one wire at 3 or 6 or 9 depending where rotor is.

yeah yesterday it spit on me again could not tell if it was threw carb or exhasut pipe. when i got out the timing was still fine though. Its always in 2nd or when i turn a corner in 2nd. Its not fuel releated either. Have mechanical and aftermarket electric 3 psi and plenty of fuel. MAybe the sudden accel/cornering is making bearings zip around like you said. Would i be able too said bearings? Anyone know for sure specs on the zx motor. Everything i can find says 8 at idle seems low. whats good for total advance?

it clearly works sometimes though. like right now its fine. its more sticky than anything like it can advance fine just not find home all the time.

never rebuilt a dizzy. Just need it to hold together till the winter. Since that car has been modified its getting a l28et this winter. I just did not know if that is a good guess as to whats going on.

1280 its back to normal for now anyway.

Today i took here on another run. I had noticed the temp gauge was about one needle thickness higher than normal since this all happened. Take a hard left crack it open in 2nd and pop pop. Pulled into the next parking lot whipped out my timing light and i was back to 0 re adjusted to 12 btdc. Power is back needle is back down on temp gauge. Only thing i can think of is sticking advance unit in the dizzy?

No ideas?

Okay i adjusted my valves the other day they where out of spec but not that bad. Error on the side of to loose rather than burn one. Now today i am driving around it is is backfiring la little from tail pipe. No biggie i think it is like 90 here and humid as sin. Richened up the mixture a little same thing. Wtf i whip out the timing lite and somehow my timing was at 25 or degrees advanced at idle WTF i adjusted my dizzy as far as it would go and now its at about 13-14 i dont get it how could that happen. it was adjusted to 14 before the valve adjust. kinda scrat5ching my head here. Is there two spots to adjust are dizzy? it is the 280 dizzy. i always just loosen the screw near radiator and go to town. But now i seem a little down on power but it could be just me. Hits hard after 3 grand but before its just average. could be just me though. Thoughts?

re did the valves today all perfect. now no tick at idle rev it up a little and it ticks little worse than before like all of them now. Its not as loud though. How much tick in these is normal? is it possible they where to tight before and they did not tick because of that?

i assume then the compression noise from the timing chain area then is just the crankcase pressure going to the pcv?

hm.......i pulled the cover and i can slip a .23mm gauge under some of the intake when its cold prety sure when cold its supposed to be .20 cant slip a .25mm though.

i dont see a oil spray bar. Any pics? my cam has holes in the lobe. I checked it again i do have a few where the feeler goes in with a little drag but on the way out it feels to easy. I also noticed i have compression noise coming from the timing chain area when i turn it over buy hand. I did a leak down test all cyl are between 5-7 percent. Compression is 180 across the board plus minus 2#'s Its hard to say whats on this engine. Someone once upon a time had a clue but they guy i got it from sure as hell didnt. he took care of it but had no clue. He told me it was a 280 block with 240 head. I was like sweet until i got home and saw it was just a zx engine. So i have no idea if the cam has been changed. It does have a nice rumble at idle but nothing radical.

Any other ideas? almost sounds louder on the driver side but i suppose thats where the valve is. Only other thing i can think of would be exhaust leak right at head. But its not that loud.

Adjusted everything to spec today. Engine was warm. checked 3 times to makes sure each time i drove it in between to make sure. Still this one tick. i am positive its only one as i cn drop my idle down to 450 and it is clearly just one...argh......

my f54/p79 setup in my 240z never made a peep on the valve train....until today. I took it on a spirited run in the country with some pulls to 6 grand. when i got home i had some ticking going on. It actually only sounds like one or maybe two. Its not that bad and you can't really hear it over the fan unless you in the engine bay and listen. I have certainly heard worse sewing machine hondas in my day. Should i attempt to adjust or just roll with it?

Plan for the car is to turn it into a period correct racer with full factory trim inside. I want it to look the part and drive as well is there a factory race prep manual for the z? i have one here for my 79 rx7 its kinda cool to see the 79 way of thinking for ducting custom air cleaner boxes peripheral porting the 12a etc etc. Thought maybe there would be one for the z Regardless thanks guys.

correct the line comes in on the rail then there is a distro block with line going back. I just did not know how effective it is. My carbs are getting hot as sin with the header i have. No vapor lock no driving issues and i have a 280 hood. Just wanted to make sure i had a nice fresh flow of fuel in and out. I added a electric pump from a old rx7 i had here in the rear to boost flow.

WoW!!!!

Getting hot here lately and want to have a constant fresh fuel supply. Was thinking about plumbing a return line in. Whats the best way to go about this? anyone have pics? Also what are people doing with the overflow lines with itgs air cleaners and such. Dont like the idea of gas possibly coming out on the headers. Currently there is two lines teed together run in front of the radiator if it where to overflow.

yeah i dont know much about auto x but those are some serious beasts there. I was just hoping someone here knew something. Pm me though i am thinking about vintage class but dont want to butcher my car for a cell.