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got my exhaust all mocked up and welded today. I cannibalized my old twice pipe set up to make the new exhaust. So far i happy with the way the car is sounding however i need to figure out a way to raise my exhaust up a lil higher as i only have 2" of road clearance at the resonator. I bought a cheap flux core welder from Harbor freight and welded the exhaust up. Its my first time welding and it shows but hell its just some exhaust pipe.

Got my drive shaft shortened and balanced and changes the flange yoke (neapcor 2-2-899-1) to match my R200 4.11 diff. Work was done by Drive shaft Inc. here in Tulsa and cost me $147.

Today i created some homemade fuel lines for my car; the design has a return fuel line that ties into the OEM return lines of the 240Z.... hopefully it works as intended. Also installed my beloved monte-carlo bar.

Finally got the SBC and T5 dropped into the 240z. The entire motor sits behind the front cross member. Next step is to get the motor plumbed and wired; also need to get the drive shaft cut and balanced. Let me know if you guys know of any good local drive shaft shops that can do the job at a decent price.

Got the motor and tranny out today. Took about 3hrs from start to finish.

CHAPTER II So i have decided to go ahead and do a carbureted small block chevy swap into my series I 240Z. As always i will be doing all the work in my garage with the help of friends. First my motor: I'm hoping to get around 250+hp and 300tq at the wheels. freshly rebuild Chevy 5.7L SBC 350. 4-Bolt main Block has been bored 40 over An excellent set of 882 heads Edelbrock RPM airgap intake Holley 600cfm carb New Comp 268 cam kit. New flat top pistons providing a 9.5:1 compression ratio M/T valve covers New Black Coated Steet Rod Hugger Headers Second Transmission: I will be using a World Class T5 out of a 5.0L mustang. I have rebuilt the transmission and done a few upgrades to build in a lil extra strength into the T5. New shift forks New shift fork inserts heavy duty cluster gear support plate New Input Shaft/4th Gear Bearing & Race New Output Shaft Bearing & Race (85-95) heavy duty input Bearing Retainer Third Chevy SBC to Ford T5 Coupling: In order to couple a chevy motor to a ford transmission i an using the bell housing for a chevy WC T5 transmission and a custom adapter plate. Fourth Clutch: Again to run a chevy motor with a ford transmission i an running a flywheel and pressure plate from a F-body camaro and the clutch is from a 5.0L ford mustang. I'll be using a JTR kit for the engine mounts etc. I have the drive shaft from the mustang and once i get the engine and transmission transplanted into the car; Ill get a final measurement for the drive shaft and have it cut and balanced. I got the hood and the exhaust off the car to get ready to pull the old 2.4L L6 motor.

The radiator is a Champion 3 core off ebay.

The car is looks good but needs a lil more power under the hood. I am strongly considering building a 350 SBC and swapping it in place of the current L24. The goal would be to have 300hp/300tq at the wheels. The only thing holding me back is the fact that i love the sound of my current straight 6 and am not sure I’d like the sound of the SBC as much. I'm currently debating between the high compression L28 motor or a 350 SBC. The HC L28 would only give me around 170hp at the wheels but would sound awesome; the 350SBC would give me 300hp but would sound like a truck motor.

Just finished color sanding and buffing the car. Thought i'd share a few more picture. After And a few pictures of the interior:

Just a lil update on the car got the hood liner installed.

QUESTION / PUBLIC OPINION Since the current tint on the windows done by the previous owner is rather low quality shoddy job that is now stating to peel. Should I a. Get it re-tinted with a dark tint? b. Get it re-tinted with a light tint? c. Get it re-tinted with a is some color other than the regular black tint? d. Remove the tint completely?

Once again thanx for all the support guys. I'm still waiting on a few parts to come in to finish the car.

thanx for the support guys. I'm really proud of how well the car has turned out. I did all the work myself including painting the car in my garage. Gary I have adjustable suspension and will be raising the car approx 2" before I start driving it.

Well i had the windshield installed on my 240z yesterday and was finally able to take it out of the garage after a rather lengthy 2 years of restoration. The car still needs a bit of work to get it to a 100% but i could not resist taking and sharing a few pictures. The car still needs to be color sanded and buffed. I'm also waiting on my upgraded headlight and taillight harnesses from MSA and a friend will be over tomorrow to weld in some rear brackets so i can mount the 7/8" sway bar in the back. Right now the car is a lil too slammed but i'll be raising it up an 1" or 2.

Hi guys, Anyone have the wiring diagram for the miata wiper motor upgrade. I have the new wiper motor in place but don't really know which wire is to be connected to which prong. I searched and all i can find is the wiring diagram for the honda wiper motor swap. Also if anyone used a relay i would love to see the wiring for the relay as well. thanx

wow one would think since these carbs are sold as an upgrade by MSA for $1K they would provide atleast a slight power gain. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PFFC02/11-3005

Is there anything to be giained by going from the standard roundtop SU's to a set of Weber DGV's?

I used a suggestion given to me by a member on hybridz and I fill up my kitchen sink with hot water, submerge the lens/housings, and let them soak about 15 minutes and then gently pry and pull the lens away from the housing. thanx for the help guys

Hi, I would like to open the my 240z tail lights and clean them. If anyone could provide some guidance as to how to go about opening the tail lights it would me much appreciated. I just want to make sure that i dont break then in the process of trying to separate the the lens from eh body of the tail light. Currently the tail lights are off the car and i have removed all the wiring and bulbs out of the back. thank you

I am very strongly considering that option. I think a CF wrap would look awesome especially since i sparrow tail spoiler is real CF with clear coat.

I'd like to provide a little break in the red.

My car is painted a viper red and I need to pick a color for my front air dam, ZG flares, and hatch louvers. The logical chose would be to paint them gloss or flat black. But this combination has been done to death. I am looking for opinions on alternate colors to paint my front air dam, ZG flares, and hatch louvers that would look good on a red car.

I used Fatman in may car. I have yet to drive the car but i used 100sqft of the stuff and for the money it is an awesome product. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37284

Hi guys, I am currently in the process of swaping a BW T5 and a R200 into my 240z. Currently my car is running the stock L24 motor with a racing cam but i would like to replace it soon with a L28et with approx 300 whp. The car is going to be a daily driver for the most. What is the real world performance difference between the 3.70 and the 3.90 diff's and if it enough to warrant holding out for a 3.90 rather than going with the cheaper and easily accessible 3.70 diff? Also how much do most 3.90 R200 cost?

thanx for all the pictures guys. Someone locally here is selling a louver for a 280Z on CL. I want to use it on my Series 1 240z rear hatch. I guess the only way to find out weather or not they will fit is to test fit them on my hatch. Below is a link to the CL ad; take a look: http://tulsa.craigslist.org/pts/2013858339.html My car going to be red in color with a black front MSA airdam and black ZG flares. Also my car will have a carbon fiber sparrow tail spoiler. I am hoping to add a rear louver (black) to prevent my carpet from fading in the sun and also giving the car a more aggressive look.