Alan O

Here is what worked for me. I made a gauge out of a piecs of aluminum. Then I flipped over the Carburetor and stated bending the float arm. Darn if those needle valves had a little spring in them. I could not get the level right. So I placed a piece of plywood in my bench vice and bolted the carb to it in a horizontal position, same as it would be in my Z. Now I figured that Fuel is a fluid and so is air. I took a length of fuel line and blew into it as I adjusted the lever arm. When the air flow stopped the needle was closed. Sure enough I got the gauge to where the float was where it was supposed to be. Bolted them up to my manifold and have enjoyed them ever since. As usual thanks Bruce for the Z therapy video and the help you have given me along the way.

3in1 Blue Label Motor Oil is a non detergent 20 Weight. I have been using it for years. Also any good hardware stocks 20 Weight non-detergent in quarts. Price about 3.00 for the 3 in 1 3oz container. Quarts of 20 non-detergent run about 3.00 also, but do not have the handy spout. Alan

You do beautiful work and this thread on the Swap has been a road map for my conversion. My project has slowed a bit as I purchased a 72 Air Box on Ebay and now I am glass beading and painting it. The original owner forgot to put the Wing Studs and adapter nuts to mount it so now I have to wait for another Fedex shipment. Those parts are a rarity. The linkage and documentation is fantastic! Thanks for the credit. It's nice to be recognized. Alan

That's a beautiful setup, Bruce and Steve are the best! You have more than offset any royalty incurred by the timely information you have provided by this posting. And if spending only $.15 is bothering you, I can also recommend that with the 1/8 cotter pin, you also purchase a 8-32 machine screw nut and two 1/8 x 1 fender washers. Place the 8-32 nut under the eye of the cotter pin then stack the first washer. Place through the heat shield. Then put on the second washer and bend the ears over. It is much easier to do this with the heat shield removed. And as a favor to me, stay away from the big boxes. Shop your local hardware store. Thank you Alan Central True Value Hardware 260Z 2+2 1974 with three screw carbs. Enhanced by Bruce at Z Therapy

I would suggest that you not put the throttle springs right through the heat shield. Use S hooks or the way I did it was drill two 1/8" holes get two cotter pins 1/8" and put those in the holes. Then put your throttle springs into the eye of the cotter pin. Looks nice and will save the loop on the spring.

I am at the same exact point as you. I also found that when I went to mount the 74 Air box to the carbs, that the choke cables are exactly where one of the hoses comes off the back plate. I found a used 71 air box on Ebay. Anxiously awaiting its arrival. So far I pretty much have the same hose routing as you do. I made some caps for the 3 port tee as I was a little nervous about the 35 year old plumbing. Also I would like to see the answers you get to the question. Alan 74 260Z 2+2

You might also consider seats from an Air Cooled 911. I installed them years ago. They are leather and they complement the interior. I did have to take 2 metal straps to adapt them to the existing seat rails, but there was no drilling or bending required. I also had to switch the seats. Meaning that the drivers seat is now on the passenger side and the passenger seat became the drivers seat. The seats sit a little lower than the originals, but that is easily cured with some washers or thicker metal straps. Good luck Alan