Seanh

I am in need of a drivers side glass from a 70-78 z. I dont really care about scratches, as long as its in one peice please let me know about it. Thanks! seany13@alltel.net

We only have 2 salvage yards around this area, and niether of them have any windows I need...looks like it homemade fiberglass window for me...

Well my drivers side window broke out today, must have gotten wedged sideways or something, either way I dont car why it broke right now, but I need to know what I can do. Me and my dad were looking at it and it looks like it a fairly straight peice of glass, so I figure we could make a replica out of clear fiberglass or lexan or something. Would this work? Is the original 72 240z window a staraight peice of glass? If not, is there any way to make a cheap fix for it? The car is a peice of crap so I dont care what it looks like, as long as it will keep people out of the car just as well as glass will (aka no scran wrap ) So what should I do? I am in a hugh hurry because this is my only car now and I have to have it done as fast as possible. Does anyone have one for sale? If so how much? Please email me at seany13@alltel.net Thanks!

Well, today I checked the pedel and everything seems ok under the dash. I had a friend push the clutch while I watched the slave engage. The slave seems to be engageing correctly, it come out of the bore the same amount of distance every time, but for some reason the clutch behaves strangely. Perhaps the pin comming out of the slave needs adjusted? It is a little bit lose when the clutch is not pushed in...What do you think is wrong now? When I dont pump the clutch, just depress it once and put it into 1st, and start to let out, the clutch hooks up immediatly and the car takes off, so I know something is not right. What do you think now? Thanks

Well I got my car done and finished up today with the new clutch. I hooked the clutch (slave?) cylinder to the side of the transsmission and all, and bled the system, but I'm still having to pump my clutch pedel to get the clutch to engage. What needs replaced? The master cylinder, or slave? or what is where and what needs reaplaced? Any help would be great, Thanks!

Yes I did check to make sure the shaft fits in the new pilot bushing, and it does fine. I guess after school i'm going to give it another shot at pulling the trans out and checking the alignment again, but I would imagin its alright...Oh well, I'll let you know if theres any progress later today...

Alight, got my pilot bearing installed correctly, put my clutch on, useing the alignment tool...now I'm trying to get the tranny back in the car, but it just won't go...I installed a new pilot bushing, so it may be tight, but I jsut can't do it. I have it all lined up so that its pretty much staight, and I pick the tranny up and move it from side to side and up and down trying to get it slide in but it just wont. I have the shaft in the disk, it just won't slide into the pilot bearing. I am thinking about tomarrow just getting some longer tranny bolts, and since its all seemed to be lined up theading those into the engine and useing all 4 of them to push the input shaft into the crankshaft. What do you think? Any guesses on what the problem might be? I'm pretty sure I got the disk alinged correctly with the crank shaft useing the alignment tool provided, so I wouldn't think that would be the problem would it? I might just double check it tomarrow, but I doubt it. What do you think? Thanks

I'm in the middle of changeing a clutch, and I'm replaceing my pilot bushing. Do I need to put locktite or anything on the bushing, or is it supposed to be free moveing in the crank? Thanks

Well, I blew out a headgasket today, so I need to change it this upcomming weekend. The car still runs, but leaks water out of the right side between the head and block. How hard is it pull off? Can I just leave all the intake attached? How do I need to line up the timeing chain? I'v never pulled a head on these engines so I don't know. Thanks

Well, I'd almost forgotten about this thread. I finally raced the sucker, and well, he handed me my arse on a platter. I was incorrect about the engine, it was a 91 2.0SI motor with aftermarket clutch and cold air intake, other then that, it was stock as far as engine/drivetrain components go. We ran 3 runs, and he beat brutally on 2 of the 3, and the second run he missed 3rd and pulled ahead of him, however he still caught up to me in the long run to finish about dead even that time. My car is running a stock 2.4L w/E88 head, 72 SU's, 3.90 LSD rear end. I talked to him afterwards and he claimed 13.9 on the track, and I didn't believe it until he showed me some slips and it looks like he's being honest. He dumps his clutch at 7,000rpms and doesn't get traction until mid 2nd gear, and he says thats the only way to get these 4 bangers off the line with descent 0-60's. Sad thing was, he was still pulling on me off the line, even with the tires spinning...Oh well...My new car whooped his arse a couple weeks ago though, its an 03 Tiberon w/nitrous.

Hey, my SU's are not running that great anymore since I tried to mess with them because they were fouling sparkplugs really fast. I'm wondering how I can do an initial settings on them or something. I don't have any special tools for tuning dual carbs, and no local shops want to do it either, so I'm going to have to do it myself. What should I set everything at? BTW, there 72's

My fuse is only a 30 amp, which I thought to be a little small in my mind, for the application. My fan is on a switch, to trigger a 30 amp relay, which is tied into the white/red power wire comming into the cabin from the alt/battery. Thing that happened was this: Car was just fine, running with all this stuff. One day I accidently left my lights on, and ran the battery down. So I changed it up for a while, to the point where the car would start continuosly, and took off driveing that night. Well, my amp meter would nearly peg itself when I was on the gas and engine was spinning fast, but would die down when I'm at idle. So I figured this was just the alt. trying to chage the battery (until I relized how the system worked and seeing as it would have nothing to do with the charge rate), then one day the car just died and the amp meter filled with smoke and the fuse link your talking about burnt in half. I was stuck in the parking lot with nothing to do, so I purchased an inline fuse holder and put that in, and boom, worked with with a 30 amp fuse. Never blew again until the other day when I took that corner. I can't find any shorts anywhere, but I'm obviously dealing with something that isn't shorting out all the time, just when the car moves a certain way. However, all this started the day I left my headlights on and ran the battery dead (also replaced the battery at this same time btw)

Alright, well my stock clutch fan was shot to peices, so I replaced it with an electric one I had laying around. It only pulls 9 to 11 amps, so I don't see why that would fry an alternator. My battery is a 950 cca, brand new. Also, the wire between the alternator and starter on my car IS simply a wire with a fuse holder spliced into it. I burn it so much that I am sick of the hassel of replacing fuseable links, I hate them with a passion. Also, theres not much to my fuse box. Most of it is burnt up or busted, and I can practially take all the fuses out and the car will still run just as it did before, the majority are not even hooked up on the bottem of the panel, from the pervious owner (not me). I changed my car over to a push button ignition system, and I used that little panel that covers the fuse box as my switch panel, so I'd like to free up some space under there, so thats why I want to move my fuse box, and also convert it to a blade type box. I'm not going to mess with another stock wireing harness, with my knowledge of electrical work it would just be easier to do it myself. I'm only going to be reaplaceing the main power wire going into the cabin to the fuse box, and then from the fuse box out...I'm going to take my alternator out and have it rebuilt it looks like...since I'm doing that I might as well have them bump up the amp output on it as much as I can afford.

I'm haveing so much trouble with the electrical in my Datsun since winter has started...First off, the other day, I had my left turn signal on, and was going thru a corner when I heard a loud pop and the car began running like crap. So I stopped, checked my fuse in the engine compartment from the starter to the alt, and it was blown. Replaced it, and drove home...took dash apart, and found the source of my short and repaired it. Well, my turn signal doesn't work anymore...right one works fine, but the left just doesn't come on at all. The dash light for it comes on dimly, but doesn't blink and the outside light for it doesn't come on at all. Whats going on here? Flasher burned out? Now, my brake lights are out a couple nights later, both of them. I'm thinking its the switch by the brake pedal, how do I check it? Also, now last night when I get in and start my car, no heat! Blower motor is not turning on. So, I check the wireing behind the panel, and its plugged in good and everything. Any other ideas? I don't know where something could have gone wrong here... Another one...When my car is idleing in the driveway, no electric fan, heater, headlights, or stereo system on, the voltage at the battery is approx. 15.5 volts. When I flip the headlights and electric fan on, it drops to 12.4 volts. Shouldn't the alt. keep it at like 14.4 all the time? My alt. looks brand new (perhaps by last owner, but not sure,) and my battery is also brand new since I'v got the car I replaced it myself. What could be the problems here? Bad alt., voltage regulator maybe? Any tests I can do to determine? And last off, this isn't a problem, but something I just want to do. I'm going to replace all the wireing on the datsun sometime soon. I'm going to run all new wiring into the cabin from the engine bay, and all new fuse panel, and most everything. I'm wanting to know what I need to do. From the looks of the stock setup there is a wire from the batt. to the starter, and then the starter to the alt. Which I think is stupid, so when I re-do I'm going to run a wire from the battery to the alternator directly, seems more logical to me. Then I'm going to change it so that the heavy gauge wire going into the cabin comes from the battery also, not the alternator as is on my current setup. I'm going to relocate the fuse block also, to under the passenger side part of the dash, just for my own reasons. I'm assuming that the wire comming into the cabin from the alt. only goes to the fuse box correct? And is then distributed from there? If not, where else does it go that I might not find? I know this is a lot of work, but I'm going to completly re-do this car in the future, so I might as well start here since I love working with electronics. Thanks!

Alright, I understand now...I will have to look at the MSA as soon as it gets here. I just ordered my solid differential mount from them and it should get here today hopfully.

Hey, I was looking for a new rear setup for my datsun, since my springs and shocks need reaplaced before long anyways. I found this setup, from Comp Eng. on the Advance Autoparts website, part number C2051, for $235. Is this a descent setup? Are there any others available that I should be looking at? What do you think about this? Thanks!

Thats $42 less then Summit wants for it, I think I'll probally go with that before long. I'll stay in touch and probally be ready to buy it in a couple weeks. Thanks

If you would, check on the dual friction one also, I'd like to have that one if possible, but may just go with a standard one. Thanks!

I do love my 2nd and 3rd gear rubber. I do it when I'm on the street just for fun, when I race I don't waste my time to try to get rubber into 2nd, although at times it usually ends up getting a little squeal anyway. My entire driveline is also going to be reaplaced with an LSD 4.11 rear end, with brace, and aftermarket axles and I'v already got my driveshaft. I'm extremly interested in that clutch your talking about, the Centerforce for $160. Is that the dual friction one, or just a standard or stock replacement or somthing? If its dual friction, like the one Summit wants $325 for, then no question, I'll take one.

I called Summit Racing to check what they had for the Centerforce clutches for my car and they said they had the Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch kit for something like $260 or so, but it also required a special throwout bearing which is an additional $65.00, so total would be around $325.00 for the entire clutch. I don't know, I would like to keep the cost down, but I may end up just going for it.

Well the clutch on my 72 240z is finally takeing a crap, won't even spin the tires dumping into 1st anymore. So pretty soon its time for a new one. I'm wondering what kind you reccomend. I'm wanting under $200, but the cheaper and better. I want something thats going to hold up for atleast a year with the way I drive. I'm more into "rev up to 6 grand and dump the clutch and make some smoke" as opposed to feathering the clutch when I race. I do race, not regularly, but I do my fair share of track and street raceing in the summer. Nothing seriosly done to the motor, just pretty much a stock rebuild with ported heads, and backcut valves right now. And intake and exhaust mods in the near future, so nothing extreamly high output here... Thanks!

I'v been haveing so many rear end problems with this Datsun its starting to p--- me off. My rear end mount is bad, I know that. I wanted to go with a solid one, so everyone suggested I just do the angle stock idea, so I did. Well, first peice wasn't thick enough, and the rear end bent it. Well, I finally got some thicker today, and installed it after much difficulty, only to take it out once and dump the clutch and take off hard, and on my shift into 3rd my damn loud thump is back again. Take it home, and one of my bolts had been spripped out. I don't know what to do anymore? Can I take it to a shop and have it welded in place? If I do will I be able to remove the rear end if I ever have to? I'm at a lose. I just want the damn stock rubber one back if I had to do it again. Also, I dunno if I didn't do this right, or what not, but I was wondering if there should be any clearance between the brace and the peice of angle stock? I didn't leave any on the 2nd attempt, because I don't want that annoying thud everytime I shift gears or hit the gas. Is this alright or did I screw it up or something? One more thing, where can I get a new stock rubber mount or perhaps a polly aftermarket mount? I'm getting a little discouraged with this solid mounting idea...I want a solid mount, but it just ain't workin for me I guess...

Well, I am haveing some trouble...When I first got my Z it leaked alot of oil, I just kept filling it up. I finally did my first oil change on it since I'd got it, and replaced the filter (probally 4 years old, been sitting). Stoped my oil from leaking almost completly, I thought the seal around the filter was the problems then and haven't worried about it. I just got back from a 500 mile round trip in which my car used slightly less the 3 quarts of oil. The engine is in good shape, and I doubt hardly any of that was "burned", most just leaked out. I noticed spots all over where I parked the car, even after just 10 minutes. It looks to me like its comming from the front of the engine, like maybe the front main seals or something. I don't know, all I know is I don't want to have to go to alot of work to fix this, so I'm wondering if there is a good stop leak oil additive that might fix this problem without replaceing seals? Thanks

My guages are not working all that great, and I hate electric guages anyways, and my clock is not working. So, what I want to do is replace all 3 guages with aftermarket ones, a fuel level, an oil pressure, and a temp guage. I was told there are some specific aftermarket ones that fit nicely in the factory openiings. What size guages will I need? Also, since I'm wanting all mechanical guages, I need to know the correct sizes for the fittings on the engine. I bought a tripple guage pod with only a couple common sized adapters for the fittings and was unable to use it since the fittings on my engine were not compatable. So I will need to get the correct fittings also. What are you reccomendations as to size and the engine fittings? Thanks!

I'm trying to figure out, why does the L28 have such higher compression then the L24's? I know its not entirely the head, and both engines have flattop pistons, so what gives it such high compression? Is it the stroke on the crank? Or is it the larger diameter of the cylinders? I'm wondering if it would be possible then to put a 2.8L crank into a 2.4l engine. If so, what rods will I use, or are they the same? I'm just wanting to get some higher compression in my 72 240z motor without actually switching blocks, I would like to slap an N42 head on there, but the compression in my stock engine would drop if I do that, so I'm seeing what all I could possibly do? Thanks