71Nissan240Z

It's worth it. It makes your car look new. I bought some bleish units euro style for 399. I couldn't pass it up. I can't even tell where exactly the blemish is.

Isn't best to just get some z therapy carburetors? I'm getting 24 mpg and that's a somewhat rich tune with sm needles on a zx engine. I almost bought a EFI Z a while ago but not having a modern fuel injection setup is cumbersome when things get old. I'm a mechanic part time and I deal with efi all the time but I have a powerful scanner which makes life easier. However, I can still find myself for hours on my laptop scratching my head with all the sensor monitoring in front of my face. Good luck..but seriously think about just junking that efi if you can afford some carburetors. In my 5 years of running z therapy carbs I only had to tune is twice. Once when I installed them. And the second time was when I did a $^!# load of ignition mods and camshaft. Otherwise it fires up on second or third rotation of the engine. A lot ppl are surprised by how good it runs when I tell them it's got carbs.

It seems like if the engine has never been touched it will break head bolts. All of the heads I've pulled at the junkyard (about ten ) only one of them I broke a bolt and it appeared to be all original and never been apart.

Excellent. Thank you zed head!! I'll keep an update to what I do.

. All I'm asking is how I can modify my distributor to run more initial timing without going too far over on my total timing. I heard about jb welding weights and other things...what I want is someone who races these cars to share with me how to do this mod. That's all I'm really asking for. For example...I want to run 15 degrees at idle...but I can't because my total timing would be way over 40 degrees. There is a mod to reduce the amount of total advance so u can run more intial. I'm not talking about recurving the distributor which involves changing how fast full advance approaches at any given rpm. Spark plug gap http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/ignition.html I followed his advice. Argue with him not me .

The guy that stole this should be dropped by helicopter straight into Afghanistan with the word thief carved into his forehead. I hope to god you catch whoever is involved. What a beautiful car I'm really sorry.

Did u verify the line isn't clogged? I mean the one from the engine bay to the tank? Sometimes critters will crawl in there and nest if it's left open to elements. Disconnect from the tank side and run compressed air to see if u can blow anything out. Your tank won't explode...it will implode. For now leave the cap a little loose and do not fill the tank very much past half.

It would help to post the pictures here as I cannot see them without registering to there site

Oh god. That's terrible.

The 5.3 gm engine is wonderful. EXCEPT the damn head must be removed to get to the hydrolic lifters. Mine are a little noisey in my tahoe and I have decided to just deal with it. They're not clogged I just think the check valve isn't sealing inside. I'm the original owner of the 04 tahoe. Always used awesome oil. Like motul or something the like of since day one. As far as the crank. In japan I heard they shorten it a bit to help with resonance. Perhaps that's the reason for the failure. I've never built one of these before so what the he'll do I know . I do know some of the trade secrets tho.

No it runs better to 7,000 rpms. Not just idle. I understand ionization etc....There's no real way to tell if it's stressing my ignition system without using a scope and looking as the signal differences the wires are creating. From what I can see the cap looks fine and there's no issues as of now. This has all been done by our forefathers and z home recommends it so I'm going to do it as long as someone with way more experience than me did it. The issue I'm having is my total timing sucks. My ignition system is great and brand new. However I really do accept all of your guys input. Thanks a bunch!

N42 from the maxima or the 280? I've got the n42 off a maxima but I'm not sure If I wanna replace my current p79. I've seen pictures of rods bolts and caps cracking on these engines. What rpm are u spinning up?

That's why ilk never install a 300 hp l28. I would love it too much. But I'm wondering what happened to throw rods through the block. What cylinder heads are u guys running?? I agree...The stock l28 is pretty slow. But the sounds it makes keep me addicted. That's the problem. I'm hoping to get 210 220 crank out of mine.

D612-53. And then there's a number below that:810

How bad did you blow the engine? Maybe you can use the parts for another engine and maybe regain some of the performance. That's why I'm against a race engine...It's too heart breaking if you ever blow it up. The engine I put together is slow but if I blow it I don't care. Sorry for the loss man.

A puff of smoke at 90mph? With a full load on the engine and high rpm I wouldn't worry much. Most cars I see on the track that are carbureted have some or light puffs here and there under full throttle. Especially the heavily modified csrs6 <==== (****in auto correct ) I meant "cars"

I'll do the timing base check. So the plug gap I got from the z home website. And actually it runs better this way than it did with the standard gap. I have the msd 6al, blaster coil ,pertronix and taylor wires. I do understand the concept of spark and compression. But my car runs better this way so I might leave it for now. My engine...not sure what was done because it was built before me.but I know I'm putting out 195psi on each cylinder and it is lumpy at idle. P79 head and f54 block. I tried to look for marks on the cam but I couldn't see any. My vacuum guage reads 15 and the needle shakes a little with the cam. Which is further evidence for me of an aftermarket cam spec. Valves are adjusted to spec and no air leaks. Given this information I know engine that are cammed like to run a little more initial timing that's why I'm frustrated with my current dizzy. I'll get the number of the distributor when I get home. I'm at work right now.

My plugs are gapped at .080. Msd ignition blaster coil pertromix. Otherwise runs great I just know I can get a few more ponies up high with less curve

Total advance is just a guess but if I set my dizzy at 15 degrees at idle total advance is way past 35 degrees. My balancer only has notches up to 20degrees. I should probably make more. Right now I have it set at 10 degrees initial. Running 93 Octane it pings like crazy if I do the 4th gear test

I had to pull my oil pump. Anyways my distributor is set at about 35 degrees total advance at about 7 to 8 initial. I have a gen 2 zx distributor in my garage.Not sure if I want to use that over my original since I have a pertronix hooked up to it and msd. My car runs fine I just wish I could pull more initial timing for more power. I can't afford a mallory. I heard u can do something with the weights inside but I'm not old school enough to know how to do that with a distributor. What would you guys suggest? ?

Sounds like you had them set as close to perfect as they're gonna get. Then you got a little bit carried away. When I first put my z therapy carbs on I tuned them and really had to resist the urge to fiddle with them again. Especially since before the new carb exchange I was messing with the old ones all the time to get it perfect. Honestly I would aluminum braze the holes and seal it closed. You may want to take an extremely small drill bit and lightly drill into each end of the cracks first to stop it from spreading. Then fill the small holes u made with aluminum then fill in the main holes. I would advise against a wideband...Since you know how to read your plugs. A wideband may further your problems with wanting an efi like tune which will never happen with triples.

The best way to find out how your car is running is to read the plugs

You would think 15 plus years in the automotive industry I'd know how to prep the surfaces . Guys it's not gaskets that I'm mostly upset with about felpro. It's their shaft seals main seals. Terrible time with these lately to the point I just flat out stopped using them. Felpro used to be all I used in the past. The last timing belt I did was on a 1996 camry. Put new cam and crank seals on. Put the balancer on snug and started the car with everything off and they leaked. Told the customer he needed to buy new oem seals and pay for installation (he brought the parts to me the first time ). Low and behold...New toyota seals and it sealed up tighter than a drum. And this is with a vehicle that has 230k miles.

Try using motul tranny fluid.

Long story short. I work as a part time mechanic. Full time manufacturing tech. I have had nothing but trouble with felpro and Victor reinz (european) gaskets in the last couple years. They used to be the best. I've had to do timing belts twice since the felpro crank seal seeped oil. Rear main seal. Differential seals. My car recently started Leaking oil from the oil pump. So while I had the sway bar off for some bushing upgrades I decided to throw on a felpro gasket. Torqued it down to spec and it leaked! I really had to uncomfortably torque down the fasteners to stop the leak since there was no way I was taking the sway bar off. What's the deal are these? Are they made in china now or something? All the problems I had were solved with oem seals...nothing different except the brand....