71Nissan240Z

I bet she would still drive straight down the road

Glad it worked out for you.

I'm about a 3 hr drive from seattlw. By judging the add I wouldn't waste my time. No title. Says for parts only. Unless he can prove ownership at the dmv (which he should already have) then no one is going to pay 2k just for the police to take it when you try and register it.

I purchased a blem unit from jdm.com off ebay. I didn't notice any blemish at all. They look fantastic. $299. Sold my old ratty ones for 80 bucks on ebay. So I would say it was a good deal.

That synthetic vs non synthetic is all bs. I don't see how people can make such claims with no scientific data to back up their hypothesis. Anyways, off my soap box. I believe motul gear oil 75w90 is great for our cars. It's a 100% ester base stock. So it's fully synthetic. Not a mineral base with synthetic additives. It's gl4 and gl5 certified. The next best thing I've heard is pennzoil synchromesh, the same stuff GM uses in their sports cars. I'm using motul right now, their lubricants are proven to be top notch. I've used redline shock proof in my dad's sti but that's not gl4 rated.

I'm betting there is a crack somewhere.

John in theory I can swap the buttons inside the diff to a threaded version and should work right? I don't have a water jet. I know I'll have to verify pre load once i out it back together which may not be a bad idea anyways. I've only assembled one diff in my life. But I know how the measurements work. I just don't have a dial indicated right now. It was stolen from me and now my tools are always locked up. Thanks for all your help.

Gee whiz spare stub axles on ebay are the same price I paid for the whole diff. I just need some spares incase I mess up.

The 720 is snap in style. You say I can find snap in style z stubs? I've never seen them. If I can't find it I'll probably cut a Grove into the current z stubs I have.

I've researched alot. And it seems you can swap the buttons on the 720 diff to accept a bolt in stub axle. What do u think I'd the best approach. Should I just let the stub axles from my z float inside the diff. As a few have done that. Should I get the stubs machined to accept the snap ring. Should I swap the buttons. I don't have the proper tools to check backlash and pre load if I disassemble the diff. Thanks.

Verified the bulbs are good? Checked harness for power? Verified ground? Checked for corrosion? Thats the low hanging fruit. Do the front parking lights work? If no your hazard switch should be taken out and apart. Check each contacf for continuity, clean if necessary with sand paper. Be gentle. This solved my parking light issue in the past.

Why not purchase an airtex E8016S off amazon. It's made in usa all the hoses and clips are high quality and it's only 27 dollars. It's 3.5psi. I run mine without a rregulator and it never over fills the bowels as long as ur float needle is in good shape. The pump has a bypass anything exceeding 4 psi of pressure. It's also extremely quiet. I have mine mounted where the mechanical pump wad.

Thnx guys

The knob I'm inquiring about is the silver one in the picture. I believe its called a mota lita. I'm not sure. Anyone know where I can locate this item.

Optima

Why not just weld the crack. If u don't have a welder take the piece off and go to an exhaust shop. They should be able to help.

I kinda like the corked gaskets. They seem to conform better to un even surfaces. But yeah. The felpro kit is good.

Felpro is pretty good I have one of their master gasket kits laying around in my garage. I go Felpro if I can't find oem.

Yeah I ordered. Three of them from nissan incase I have trouble installing the peice. Any suggestions to make it go more smooth? The way I'm putting the case together is placing the front bell housing on two peice of wood then sliding the gear assembly with the tail housing attached into the front cover. It's a tight fit. Plus trying not to mess up my fipg gasket maker can make it a pita.

I guess I'll understand once I'm a little older (31). I put cars on racks at the shop where I work part time, so I understand. However, I still don't care about being under my back. My garage is carpeted so I don't have to deal with cold concrete. I do have a very good set of professional ramps ,jack stands and racing jack from napa. No skimping on hand tools or safety for me.

I'll probably just use that part from my 4 speed when it comes time to swap.

Thanks euro. I'm compiling a small order for the gutter and the shifter rod seal. Do you happen to have the part number for the counter shaft ring that locks the bearing in place at the front?r? The main shaft ring is there but the counter shaft ring clip thing is missing. I can't find the part number on the exploded diagram. Thanks for all your help.

Decided to make a new post to gain some exposure. I was putting the case back on the transmission and I broke that damn little oil gutter off the adapter plate. Can I proceed without that? Thanks

A little update. I was putting the case back together and managed to break off that little baffle looking thing at the middle of the tranny where the two peices bolt together. I believe its called an oil gutter. Any solutions? I hope that thing isn't very important.

I paid 1,400 for my z. I stopped counting receipts at around 3 grand. I still need new passenger floors. Battery tray has a small hole. The rear rocker and front fender and door have holes and rust. Driver sife is ok. My car was treated by ziebart so I guess it could be worse . My guess is when u can do all the work yourself you might come out ahead in the long run. 240zs are hard to find now. 280zs are really a dime a dozen but can still fetch a good price.