71Nissan240Z

Check ur connection at the amp meter. Power goes through that.

Ohc engine*

Download a book called "how to modify your Nissan/Datsun oho engine" it is a must for frankenstien engines concoctions.

At this point the hazard switch has nothing to do with a no crank or accessory power issue.

You need to start systematically troubleshooting your electrical circuits. Start by verifying ur ignition switch works. Use a meter or test light. If that's okay. Power runs through ur taco. Make sure the plug and connections are good. If all checks good then the car should atleast turn over. If u don't wanna check ur ignition switch at the switch u can verify accessory power at the accessory fuse. The start circuit unfortunately u will need to test at the switch.

Changing lash pads is only required when the wipe pattern is not centered om the pad. Stock spec pads are .160 of an inch i believe. I would just get the stock cam reground. The ppl doing the regrind will give u a valve lash spec and u take that number with u so when u do ur wipe test u see if u need thicker pads. Some ppl put little snipets of feeler guage to get the correct wipe pattern. Personallu i would just use new pads accordingly.

If u need a step by step to test the output voltage before the regulator I can provide that too.

Test the output voltage at the alternator before the regulator. That should tell you what needs to be repalced

Nice car. Dehumidifier? Your better off making sure everything is undercoated and drill hole to fill inside of ur frame and crevasse with some sort of lubricant or waxy substance. Also there is no such thing as no rust . U just haven't found any yet. Some z cars are more than others.

Also make sure u use appropriate strength bolt and lock washer.

When I drill do it slow. When u tap, use oil on the tap. Slowly twist tap into hole about one turn. Reverse half a turn. Then twist into the hole a turn. Then reverse half a turn. This technique allows the metal shavings to move to the bottom of the tap. After ur done clean the hole with brake cleaner and a chase. Its really not that hard. You should probably have a tap and die set anyways as this probably won't be the last time u need it. Instead. Of paying someone money u can do it urself and use the money for tools u can keep.

If somehow that control arm swung back into the wheel well from doing anything spirited to your car u would be in a world of hurt and probably have an accident. If it was me i would re tap the hole and use an appropriate size bolt and torque to spec. Theres too much suspension load going on and only having 15lbs of torque applied to that bolt.

The hot cold control blend switches need to be checked regarding the heater. Your ac...you have a low pressure switch. It might be bad. Also check ur expansion valve. It is whats used to meter the freon into ur condensor. Sometimes its an orifice tube. Your accumulator or dryer might need to be changed too. I would just replace all of these. Also turn the compressor pump manually with ur hand to see compression.

I wouldnt listen to anyone but you and your car. Set the timing in a reasonable range and run premium. U will never dial it in by ear tuning. You can only get it in a range. Dynos are good to see where u make the most power. U might be surprised. Also....all engines run a little differrnt. Some better than others.

Thats way too much pressure. The compressor cannot work well when u overcharge the system. You need to refer to the manual on the pump. Most cars take two to three small cans of stuff. Everytime i service an ac unit the low side is around 30-40 psi and the high is 150-200 psi with a temp around 80degrees ambient. Did u evac the system before hand? Its important. But with a proper fill of r-12 the pressure readings should be a little bit lower than r134a. You should be sitting around 35-45 degrees blowing out the vents with a proper charge. Clean condensor and very good fan. Doing ac work is tricky. I just replaced a blown compressor last night from a guy thinking his system was empty and overfilled. Seems as his original problem was just a bad expansion valve. I really dont know why those places sell those cans. You really cant just fill it up and go.

This is why its a good idea to run a lot of your electronics through a relay system. My headlights and fog lights both get supplied power directly from the battery and use the light switch as a switch instead of supplied power.

I would be too worried about rock chips and cracks with those headlight lenses. IMO they aren't worth using on a drivers car. Maybe a garage queen that u never drive. Otherwise no.

I refreshed a set of these for a friends car once. Took all the needles out and blew carb cleaner through all of them. Make sure u lable each needle and emulsion tube as theres two circuits in each dgv. They are okay carbs. Better than the flat tops by a mile. But after doing this his car is running decent. Dcoes are the bomb. Im hoping to get a pair of old ones to rebuild. Right now i have ztherapy su with sm needles on my lightly modified l28 w/flattops. I love my sus and im convinced its miles more reliable than that junk ltronic fuel injection on the 280zs. My. 02

What do u mean reinstall the drain plug. Its reverse of removal.

Like the title says. Im looking extensively for a hand throttle to complete my interior restoration. I emailed kats but there was no response. Anyonre have one or know where to find atleast the mechanism?

at a junkyard in sherwood oregon i came across a 1984 maxima with 300,000 miles. I saw it. Checked the plugs...no oil. Okay...new filter....wires....okay i went home and tried to find a n47 off a maxima online. No luck. The only heads availble are the open chamber junk not good for high compression. Engine is great shape. No scoring....original marks. Valves look happy. Camshaft looks good too surprisingly. Not sure if this head has been reworked or not but with 300,000k its possible. Ill be sending this head to eiji at datsun spirit to give my flattop l28 some serious power. (l28 already rebuilt) Cant post pixs on here with my phone. You all know what it looks like anyways. N47 heartshaped chambers....score

Cleaned the contacts reseated them and recessed the board a little further in to make up for the worn switch plus added a little grease. Alll is. Thanks guys

Hazard switch bad. Thanks for the wire diagram.

Hazard switch lost continuity on the turn signal and brake light side. clean the contacts and see if it works. Or rig a double pole relay two position switch if it dont work or get an O.E.??"

Hazard switch lost continuity on the turn signal and brake light side. Gonna clean the contacts tomorrow and see if it works. Ill have to rig a double pole relay two position switch if it dont work or get an O.E.??"