71Nissan240Z

Take a water bottle and put some liquid dish soap. Dont mix the bottle up and make foam. Now spray a steam of water on every inch of your vacuum lines and see if at any moment your idle changes. Usually sudden changes in idle is due to a vacuum leak. You should eliminate this first before moving onto the carbs.

I usually do all my own work unless I need a machine shop. Someone recommened bills datsun and I talked to the guy for 30min over the phone. Seemed like a nice guy, someone who I thought could help me take my car to the next level. All it took was a simple search on community.ratsun.net of "bills datsun jock" and come up with plenty of bad reviews and consumer bewares with pictures of ****ty engine builds and things he did to screw the datsun community. Honestly it just pissed me off. If you wanna know the details, search for yourself. Same thing with Datun parts LLC. Someone recieved a n47 head from them with subpar work. I dont need someone to voluneer their services. Business is business and ill pay the price for quality. There is a shop in VA called Datsun Spirit, they seem legit and have a passion for datsuns. They build 400hp NA L series strokers. The guy is from the motherland. Oh beaverton automachine, I had them press bearings for me. Ive had them rebuild my driveshaft and also had a cylinder head from a 2003 lexus is300 that he blueprinted for me. The machine shop is great and I will probably ask them to do my head work for my datsun.

i HATE to revive a thread but if you search over on community.ratsuns.net he screwed over a lot of people and does shade tree mechanic work. Im just looking out for people who may be seaching for shops in the NW on here.

Okay, Ill start. Beaverton Auto machine in beaverton oregon is great. Doesnt talk much, not to friendly, his shop is messy but he does great work.

whats up with all the horrible NW shops? ive been let down with bills datsun shoppe thats located locally here in Portland Oregon and I also thought Datsun Parts LLC was reliable. But the more I search the more crap I find. Im just looking for a shop to maybe do some head work on my p79 or replace some body panels that have rust. I dont need much else, Im very mechanically inclined. I know ztherapy, they rebuild my SU carbs and did a FINE job. But thats the only service they provide and the body guy they know went mechanical. So is there any specialist shops left in the NW or body shops that are worth a damn????:mad:

A lot has changed since then haha. Ive added MSD ignition, new ztherapy SU's with sm needles, pertronix blaster coil and electronic ignition,280z tacho,taylor wires,4 core radiator,hids for headlights, 17x8.5 17x7.5 wheels, new oem shifter, new leather boot, new engine bay light, new dome light, new pedels, replaced the whole front end braking system and im sure im forgetting something...

I use silicon gasket sealer. Works great

when ever you shock aluminum, steel or any other metal with hot and cold flashes it tends to make the molecular structure change.

maybe he reused the head bolts, when you take them out your supposed to replace them since they stretch a little bit when u have final torque.

A good way to kill yourself is putting your mouth on ignition parts in your car. I would never ever do that even if the car isnt running. You should always use a cheap multimeter atleast to test for voltage, they are usually pretty cheap now a days and it will pay for itself instead of buying random fixes and wasting your money. You probably got a plug wire mixed up with another one somewhere, make sure your firing order is correct on the distributor to the cylinders.

when I changed my water pump i disconnected the fan shroud and draped it over the fan out of the way, removed the radiator, then I was able to take the shroud off, then I was able to remove the fan and clutch to get to the water pump. While the radiator is out, try to rinse off the bugs and dirt from the fins. Dont scrub, just use soap and water.

Well I disconnected the ac compressor, the pulley was making annoying noises anyways. And its not hot enough in portland oregon for very long to really need ac. I have not taken out for a drive after this... Next step is to buy a new harmonic balancer, worst case scenerio is to take the old and new one to a machine shop to have the new one matched if it doesnt fit. I assume the manufacture purposely made them fit tight than be loose.... Actually my engine supposedly has low miles, and i can concur with the compression test and how clean it is inside. Also the valvetrain is very quiet and nice. My spark plug gap is .44 with the blaster coil and pertronix ignition. Ill have to borrow my friends timing gun again to see where my timing is at. I was at 9 degrees btdc last time i checked, I moved the distributor one notch advance to see if it helped, car seems to be more responsive but thats about it.

Oh the pertronix issue was not bypassing the ballast resistor with a 3ohm coil. I installed a 1978 tachometer to solve my tach problems. The car totally runs great now and has way more power than before. It doesnt vibrate at speed, there is no pining issues because I can gointo 4th gear at 20mph and peg the throttle with no pinging. Its just kinda hard to explain but at 6k the car sort of feels like its vibrating or it may be just be engine, I dont know. It may be that I just have too much rotating mass. I.E., AC compressor, fan clutch and mechanical fuel pump. I can tell tho the car wants to go beyond a little more than 6k so Ill try and rip out the AC and also remove the fan and replace them with electronic ones to see if its better. I just want to know if anyone else experiences this, is it normal? or should it be smooth all the way up to redline. Which in my case is 6,500k l

Thanks for your help I have an accessory damper pully, it appears to be fine cylinder 6 probably has a little bit of carbon build up, cylinder psi is slightly up on #6 and the car will turn over a couple times once and a while after shutting it off. I believe its frequencey resonance or something along those lines ....

No one! come on guys, at least share a theory or two.

I forgot to add that after my mods the power doesnt peak like it did before at around 5k. It has power when I shift at 6k rpm and acts like it may have a little more, otherwise I wouldnt even worry about this.

Just wondering if anyone experiences the same thing I do. A little background to my car is. 1971 240z. Stock 4 speed, stock rear end. Engine is a P54 Block, P79 head 2.8L from a 81zx. Stock SU 4screw carbs Mild cam (dont know the specs) Pertronix ignition 3ohm blaster coil with BR bypassed. New spark plugs gapped at .44 Carbs are tuned ever so slightly rich, on the border of being perfect. Zhome says its best for power. Carbs are synced. Running premium gas...timing is conservative at around 10degrees BTDC at idle. The issue is the car starts to vibrate at around 6,000rpms. Not extreamly bad but enough to notice. I understand the redline on my engine to be at 6,500rpms. So im wondering if its normal to have a little vibration at high rpms. That is all.

I actually had to trim the fender lip 1/4 of an inch with a dremel. I wouldnt go over a 40 series tire if ur using 17 inch wheels and a wide tire. I dont like rolling, the dremel works good. I just gotta spray something over the exposed metal now.

that was actually a 260 but it was damn nice. I would have put an e46 2001-2005 m3 engine but ohwell. I couldnt even drive my car there, I was bummed out because im having issues with the tire rubbbing on the strut perch.

Actually the rear tires do have a slight issue with the strut pearch, but that was something I knew would come into play. Im probably just going to bang it in a little. The tires absolutely clear the fenders perfect tho The offsets are the same, +4, the difference is the material behind the wheel. I dont know offset wise I could have gone, but I know I could have put a 225 width tire and still cleared the front, hell..i think you could put 8.5" wide wheels on all 4. Actually the steering feels better, its not as hard. Both the front and rear are the same exact wheel, the spokes are the same. The only difference between my wheels is the width. And no, i emailed rota and they never responded about sending me extra wheels, so im assuming someone just wants to keep it under the carpet. Doesnt matter, the way I look at it I have extra rear wheels or I can go 8.5" wide on all 4 later on. There is one issue on taking tight corners, the inner rear tire will contact the bottom spring pearch, but all you have to do is bang the base of the spring pearch it in a 1/4 of an inch to stop the contact with the tire. But it absolutely clears the fenders perfect, no rubbing there...which is what I was mostly worried about.

no rubbing issues, stock suspension. On another note, the 235's are about as wide as u can go without any rubbing issues. The front I could have gone wider but i think the 215's are perfect balance.

The a/c doesnt blow cold, I already tried it. Im probably just going to gut it out and unhook it from the engine, ill use the fan to help cool the radiator.

You replaced everything except the caP? replace the cap!

You should fix the jet and then set the floats to the correct height. Goto Zhome.com. If you dont know the history of the car you should replace the cap,rotor,wires plugs, check the timing. A stock Z should be 5degrees btdc, then you should tune the carbs (after you fix them).