71Nissan240Z

I already ordered some tires. Hankook evos 4 1/2 star rating 215/45/17 in the front and 235/45/17 in the rear. I hope they dont rub :paranoid: I went way more conservative than I wanted to, but I didnt want to run into rubbing issues. I think the tires are a bit skinny for the wheels but whatever, I will get these mounted saturday morning just in time for the datsun canby meet.

These wheels are panasport replicas. <a href="http://s485.photobucket.com/albums/rr212/pharaohdeez/?action=view&current=010b9400.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i485.photobucket.com/albums/rr212/pharaohdeez/th_010b9400.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a> Funny thing is tho! These guys sent me a total of 6 wheels , 4 in the 17x8.5 size and 2 in the 17x7.5. I emailed them about this and never got a reply. Im still debating on what size tires in the rear, im thinking 245/40/17 but I dont want rubbing issues on stock suspension. Im not worried about the front, it will be 225/45/17. Thanks for u help

Thanks, im probably gonna have to check the pressure with a guage, if its low im just going to rip out the ac. Im trying to lose some drag on the engine anyways.

I was just going to rip the ac system out of my 71 Z. But seeing how everything is this and intact, it just doesnt turn on. Ive traced the problem somwhere between the switch the the relay. The switch has no voltage with it on, so im assuming its the relay. Not sure tho. Anyways, I found the power wire from the dash going to a tri connection close to the compressor. 1 wire going to the Fan (power), the other wire going to the compressor (power) and the wire coming from the dash. I decided to just test the ac system by jumping the connection directly to the battery, the fan turns on and the clutch enguages. I didnt leave it on for very long because im not sure if there is pressure there. My question is, does the AC system have its own pressure sensor deactivating itself when the pressure is low? Because that might explain why it wont turn on by the switch. It does seem to have some pressure atleast because I pushed one of the fill ports and freon came out. I do have a viewing glass on the other side of the engine bay, I didnt look at it tho because Im too scared to jump the system too long with no freon....that means burned out compressor.

I believe we may have different style tachs. On the early Z cars they came in 4 wire positive feed from the coil. For some strange reason the ignition system runs through the tach as a positive feed to the coil. So converting to a 3 wire negative feed tach I had to keep one of the old tach wires in the loop to the positive point on the coil to keep my car running. The total resistance is around 3ohm with the stock coil and resistor. If you get a 3 ohm coil you can bypass the ballast resistor. It has nothing to do with the tach, the resistor is used to lower the voltage to the points. Is the pertronix kit not reliable? It seems to me that its more of a human error issue than the unit itself (i.e. 1.5ohm coil and no BR or leaving the key to ON) I will most def look into a different company if mine fails.

Looks great! I wouldnt worry about it at all.

Unless ur bottom end was over 100,000 miles, I wouldnt have even touched it. Make sure ur not mistaking the sub timing marks as TDC. I have not personally took apart this engine, but sometimes if u get the timing off you can make valves contact the pistons. As long as u were turning it by hand it should be okay, Im not sure if all the head/block combos are non-interference engines. Did u take the camshaft out? because its inline bored and some people have trouble making it work after they took it apart. It may be binding on the camshaft. Although, people say u dont need to remove the camshaft to take the head off...im not sure I have not looked at the valvetrain with the valve cover off yet. As of removal of the head, you want to start from the outside and work your way in in a criscross pattern. Like this X x x x x x x x x x x x x X Reassembly U start from the middle and work ur way out doing the top and bottom bolt, then working ur way out in a criscross pattern. You dont want to completely remove the bolts all at once, u want to make a few passes at each bolt to uniformly lift and tighten the head down.

the tranny is easy to remove on this car because u have access to all the bell housing bolts. Just take out the main shaft, put a jack under the tranny, remove bellhousing bolts. Remove shift knob, take off cross member and slowly lower tranny. U may get a lot of fluid everywhere, so have some cat liter handy after ur done.

Installed a 280z tach. It was pretty easy, the positive and negative wires on the old 240z tach are reversed on the 280z tach. And the loop is just disconnected from the old 240z tach and left alone. All you have to do next it transfer the guts of the 280z tach to the 240z shell so everything fits fine in the dash. The feed on the 280z tach needs a line going directly to the - coil on the tach. Works great, way better than the old one did.

Im buying a 280z tach, anyone know of a link to help me install it?

Some how I cannot edit my previous post, but on another note I opened my gap on the plugs to .045. Havent drove the car yet, but it idles and revs fine.

Why would it work before? I guess i should get a friend and test the voltage at the tacho is stable at 4k just to be sure then buy a new tacho.

I already tried bundling the 12v ignition, green tacho wire and red pertronix together with the exact same results. Somehow the tacho works fine until 4k. Could it be an issue with the distributor? The car seems to run fine past that point tho.

I just tried this today, same thing. After 4k the tacho doesnt work. Car runs fine. I dont see how the same car year color would have different issues. Do u think its from my distributor? There isnt much play in the distributor, otherwise it would be running like crap and it certainly does not.

I did READ the instructions, and the conversion says nothing about the tach needing to be on the negative terminal. Furthermore, the tach is wired stock to the positive terminal of the coil. On the stock wiring diagram the black and white wire coming from the tach goes to the positive terminal.

I know this is a totally seperate question, but id rather ask on here than open another forum. How much is the vacuum advance supposed to move when u suck on the tube? Mine barely moves at all, maybe like 1/16", is that how its supposed to be? or should i take the plate off and put some lithium grease to help it move.

Yeah I dont trust it totally either, do you know that little tube looking thing right above the coil with one wire coming out of it? What is that, and is it supposed to be connected to the negative side of my coil? And for the sake of redundancy, I have a picture of these two wires from my distributor with no use whatsoever. Just want to make sure these have no use at all. It looks like one wire is for a condensor and the other may be a ground. Both these wires I was instructed to tape up and leave alone.

perhaps thats the reason im getting an angry tach since its actually connected to ther positive side of my coil. And with having the pertronix there as well, it makes since to remove it. So you have your BR like mine? Still bolted to the car but the wires at one end to take the BR out of the circuit. And the red wire connected at the end with the rest of the wires? I really hate electrical gremlins, I only know the basics of electricity.

No I have not tried that yet, I don't see why it should need to be removed since it's already removed from the circuit but anything it worth a try. I believe the 72 tach is different inside than the 71? My build date is 6/71. Do you have your pertronix wired the same way as mine besides the resistor? I was thinking of also removing my pertronix red wire from the coil and moving it to where the two wires connect at the old BR. After finding so many numerous threads and no fixes to this issue, Im going to try my best to find a solution and share it with everyone.

I first installed the blaster coil with the stock points. I even had it feeding through the ballast resistor. The tach worked fine with that set up and when it was all stock. When I installed the ignitor set up, I initially had the red wire from the pertronix kit going to the unresisted side of the BR. And had the black wire from the pertronix kit to the - on the coil. Everything else was stock and where it should be. Went for a drive, the tach went crazy and the car backfired through the carb at 4k, which it never did before. So I saw that the instructions I used were for a 1.5ohm coil which retains the BR. I had the 3.0ohm coil, so I took the red wire from the pertronix kit off the BR wire and connected it to the + side to the coil. I then took the BR out of the loop by just connecting both wires to one side of the resistor to take it out of the circuit. So basically I have the black wire going to the - on the coil The red wire going to the + on the coil And I have the BR bypassed by connecting the two wires at one side of the resistor to take it out of the circuit. All the other wires are at their stock locations on the coil. The car now runs great, and pulls hard...so I know the BR was not needed with my coil. The tach will kinda work if im giving part throttle but as soon as i stomp on it...it drops to 0 until I shift or let off the gas. I heard that a tach adapter that is used for the MSD ignition will work? Id rather know for sure before I go through the trouble of soldering everything and taking my tach apart though. Here is a picture of my set up at the coil. I took the coil wire off to be able to show more wires.

well when I bypassed the resistor the car no longer backfires and pulls really hard. Problem is, I dont know where my redline is. I can go by feel, but id rather know what rpm range im at. I imagine i shifted around 5k but the car has plenty more after that so I need to take care of this tac issue. Someone mentioned putting a 1watt 35,000ohm resistor between the tac and positive wire feed.

I suppose thats the reason why I had a backfire at 4k. Ill have to bypass the resistor. The instructions said to leave it in place, I was kind of suspicious to this, but ill go ahead and bypass the resister by securing the two wires together. As far as timing goes. My car has a f54 block, p79 head, mild cam. 180-190psi each cylinder. Stock header, straight exhaust with turbo muffler. I didnt check the timing prior to installation, so I may have to play around. Supposedly my compression ratio is around 9:8:1, I run premium fuel...should I slowly retard the timing first? or advance? My other question is, the tac bounces at 3 k when I get it a lot of gas...if I wind it up slowly it doesnt do it. It could actually be related to still being connected to the ballast resistor. I have to wait to try the car again...any input on the tac issue? thanks for all your help!

what should a good timing degree be? How do I check the timing? below 900 rpms and with the vaccum advance off? I have the 3ohm coil but i have the system still running through the ballast resitor, should i bypass the resistor and connect the two wires together? im researching this extensively on here and other forums as we speak.

I just installed the pertronix ingnition kit and blaster coil 3ohm. I didnt remove the distributor off the engine so the timing is the same. The car ran fine before, carbs were tuned, cap rotor, wires, plugs all good. The car seems to start up real well and idle good. Seems to have more power. Two issues tho. The tac now seems to drop at around 3k to zero and back up when im giving it alot of gas The car had a backfire through one of the carbs at 4krpm or so. I didnt have any of these issues before the installation, Im just wondering if someone can point me into the right direction to see what I can do. Thanks!

mine is between 180-190psi with the f54 p79 head mild cam