71Nissan240Z

i just bought the rota rb in gunmetal. 17x7.5 +4 in the front and 17.8.5 + in the rear for 685 shipped on 18racing.com.

Did you put a light coat of oil on the outer and inner lip? what are you using to push the seal in?

Thanks for all your suggestions! So it looks like im gonna go with a 16x8 Wheel with Zero offset on 225/50/16 tires. As far as the wheels, Im probably gonna go with some XXR's Tell me which ones you think would look good in a Red 240: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/16-8-XXR-002-Black-Wheels-89-240SX-90-Miata-91-BMW-E30-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem43a1a01478QQitemZ290474431608QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/16-8-XXR-501-Silver-Wheels-Deep-Dish-Honda-Civic-4-lugs-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3361808204QQitemZ220679143940QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/16-8-XXR-Wheels-522-Gold-Concave-84-85-89-90-91-BMW-E30-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem53e3b25754QQitemZ360302401364QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories I kinda like the Gold ones, but lemme know what you guys think.

Ive spent over an hr reading through various threads about wheel size and tire size on stock 240z. I am buying 0offset wheels 16x8, not sure on the design yet but I know thats the size. I want tires that will obviously not rub, but something that doesnt look goofy. The common size is 225/50/16 for this wheel. I think that is a bit wide for the front. I was thinking a 215/50/16 for the front and 225/50/16 for the rear, for a little staggered look and feel. What your guys suggestions on tire size with stock suspension on a 71 240z with a 16x8 0-offset wheel?

I looked all over the internet, went to all the auto shops. Nobody has a unisyn flow meter. Im getting a bit desperate on tuning my twin su's. I only drive the car in the summer and Oregon rains ALL THE TIME. If someone in the beaverton area can lend me one, tune my carbs. Or let me know someone who can tune them, Ztherapy? Salem is a long ways away to drive on un-tuned carbs. I will pay anyone cash to tune my carbs. Or if anyone in Portland that can tune my car, that would be great. If I had a flow meter, Id just do it myself. I already replaced front main seal, output shaft seal and diff cover seal. My car is ready to rock!

huh? I was watching it on TV though. Im probably just going to look for a 5 speed to throw in if my tranny is starting to wave the white flag.

I did recently install new front brake pads, could one of the calipers be sticking?

I used 90W oil. I dont think there is a way to over fill since I stopped filling as soon as it started coming out the hole. Its a 4 speed manual, I dont want to fill it with something so expensive if the tranny is on its way out.

So today I just pulled my drive shaft out, drained and pumped new fluid into the tranny. Replaced the diff fluid as well. The tranny was leaking, and it was low on fluid when I did this. But I filled it up all the way, I dont really hear anything until Im going about 45 or 50 mph. The tranny shifts good, it shifts better than before, no grinding and smooth as butter. Do you know what this humming could be? It sounds like its coming from the front I had the arse end up when I took the driveshaft off and replaced the seal so no fluid came out. I knew I was low on fluid, so I lowered the car then jacked up the right side a little and pumped new fluid in. It was .75 liters short of being full. If it is a main shaft bearing, would anything happen if I just drive it on the freeway and deal with the noise? I want to drive it during the summer a little here and there, then hide it during fall winter and spring, then I can probably drop a 5 speed in.

Thanks! I have a chain wrench, do you think that could work? Thanks for the heads up, at this point Im sure the transmission is already low as it started making a whining sound on the freeway so Ive stoped driving until I can replace the shaft seal I have a 250lb impact wrench. Do you know what size fits best over the square head bolt?

Thanks I did see that thread, but it isnt clear if the driveshaft will just slide out from the transmission or if I need some special technique to get it out. I still need some advice on how to remove the fill and drain plugs from my r180

Im leaking diff fluid from the bottom of the diff, I suspect the gasket is bad. I have the R180 diff with the MALE square fill and drain plugs. I wilshI had the female plugs so I could stick a breaker bar and crack em open. I cant get these to budge. I need advice on how to get these loose. The other thing is, Im leaking tranny fluid on the driveshaft that connects to the transmission. Can I simply disconnect the shaft from the diff and pull the shaft out? I know there is a seal there and I know it needs replacement. I stopped driving my car as of now to prevent any damage. I did hear the tranny whine a little bit at higher speeds, didnt do it before. Probably is low on fluid, so ive stopped driving it. I live in Oregon so its only sunny for 3 months of the year. I need to fix this so I can enjoy my Z

To be honest, I think the whole RHD craze will be gone soon and all the people doing this conversion will be left with a hacked up firewall. Sorry to be blunt. I do admire all the hard work and everything, and I hope it does turn out the way you want to be. You probably have some good fab skills to pull this off.

Nice car, and glad to hear it doesnt come with those crappy carbs. Looks rust free....im jealous.

It takes time to bed the pads into the rotor, you're brakes won't be 100% until you have broken them in. I've had experience with the sequel from cheap pads and material. I switched to a softer pad and it was gone.

Im the complete opposite, im pretty much an expert with ECU's and EFI. But a total idiot with carbs:mad: Yeah, I could always make the 45min trip to Ztherapy, but believe it or not, I dont have a lot of time. Married, two small kids...both parents work full time. My car has been sitting outside since 7am waiting for a front brake pad change....

I have not been around in a while, Ive been busy. Working on an IS300 project at the moment. Since its no longer raining and sunny most of the time. I decided to start driving my Z car for the summer again. I need to know if anyone local in the beaverton Oregon or Hillsboro area are willing to take a quick peak at my carbs. Someone with an air flow meter so I can balance them and then sync the carburetors together. The car seems to be running reasonably good. Except at lower rpms it has a very slight miss-fire and at higher rpms it shakes under full load. It also diesels from time to time, but since I've been running premium gas, it has stopped. Fast facts about my car are: 71 240z with L28 block P79 Head out of a 1981 280z SU Twin Carbs Rebuilt engine and tranny with 5k on the clock. Im off work this Wednesday Thursday and friday. I also did meet Richard from NorthwestZ.org, he has a yellow 240z. Seems like a great guy, I really like his car too. Thanks guys!

Thanks, so do I have to adjust both carbs until they are identical when I lift the lift pins, or do I just need to adjust the A/F until it doesnt stall out when it push it up.? What I mean is, The first carb idle goes down slightly when I push the pin in, the other completely dies. Do I need to keep turning the screw until I get the same result of the first carb, or do I need to keep adjusting it until it doesnt die anymore.

Okay so I have two carbs, SU carbs. The carb closest to the distributor does not stall when I push in the lift pin under the carb, the idle slightly goes down a little bit barely and then goes back up to normal. The other carb, when I push in the lift pin, it totally dies. Can someone tell me where the A/F ratio screw is? there is so many of them. I think it dies because its running lean. Thanks!

AWESOME! I am glad to have so many resources. It seems there are lot of 240z fans in the NW. I am probably the youngest, I am only 25. I see in there that you guys rebuild carburetors? I might need to go down there when I got some time. Are you open on the weekend? I would also like to go to one of your datsun meets as well.

Thanks! I'll give that a try! Im not sure if I have the SU carbs or Weber, I think its the stock carbs with K and N filters. The filters are about 6 inches wide and sit verticle with crome in between them.

Hey everyone, I recently just joined here, I don't know too much about my car but I am trying to learn on my busy work schedule. My car starts very fast when its warmed up and the normal few cranks when its cold with the choke on. However, it used to diesel when I tried to turn it off and would not shut off until I put it in 1st gear to kill it. I realized the idle was too high at over 1,000 rpms, so I turned the fast idle screw down, and now it idles around 800-900 rpms. Now it turns off good but sometimes after running for a while it will continue to clunk for a few turns before tuning off. I realized that at low rpms, around 1,500-2000, it seems to have aslight misfire, I can feel it in N and while I drive. Once I bring it past 2,000 is has a lot of power and does not hesitate at all. Once I reach 5,000 rpms the engine begins to shake a little bit and get worse as the rpms go higher. I can take it out of gear and put it into N and it gets smooth right away, so I know its something to do with the engine. To me it sounds like its running slightly rich, but I am not sure. It has an L28 bottom and p79 head, double carbs with k and N filters. I ran some Seafoam through the break booster line, and it seems to make it better and run less rough at higher rpms. Is there anything else I can do? is it just dirty carbs? I have carb cleaner, should I use more seafoam through the break booster line? or should I just adjust the carbs? I have a repair manual but I just dont have time to read it right now. I'll have to wait until this weekend before, I can open up the book. But any advice from you guys would be greatly appreciated! Thanks! Abdi

hahaha

.012 is not alot, I think .011 is the threshold. I would just try to use the one you have as long as u can.

Yeah, but atleast we are in the same state. But actually I live close to Hillsboro