71Nissan240Z

i hope somene has a wire diagram for a 1971 zed. Basically i used the stock fog lamp wire harness to install lights. Everything went fine. My turn signals dont work. Tested the switch-good Tested the flasher on a bench-good Checked continuity from the flasher to the fuse box-good Fuse-good Power to fuse-no power Continuity from the fuse box to the wire harness plug under the hood-good I tried applying 12v power to the circuit to energize it-no good Im stumped. Maybe my diagnosing is flawed. Not sure. Im not an electrical engineer. Yet...

Thanks for all ghe pictures and information for our z cars kat!

Those series onez are hard to come by. Mines like a series one and a half

Yeah. You should do a compression test. Leakdown would actually be better. Because it will steer u to where and what cylinder is having problems sealing.

Peter mcdonald in your neck of the woods coild probably help u

Why did it pop off to begin with? Make sure ur valves are adjusted and not too loose. Allso make sure all the rock arm springs are installed.

Your alternator has a roll on voltage that increases with rpm

I took them off to change the ujoints and diff seal. Now for some reason i cannot get the bolts on the diff side. I cant get a swivel socket i can barely get a wrench in there which is what i used to get them off. Anyone have a special tool or trick to make a 3hr per bolt job easier? I have flank drives also...wont work.

Damn those knobs look great. Does anyone know where I can get an original shifter with a dragon looking thing on the top? Ive seen one before on datsun classifieds. the dragon or animal is yellow.

man that sucks to have to destroy an orginal aluminum drum

Well I've seen a dyno on a friends car gain a few ponies and some torque with a driveshaft from driveshaft specialists. Ive decided to just install the new ujoint on my bad slip yoke for now. I need to fix part of my passangerside floor and do some other repairs like my valve seals and some otherthings. On a side note...Im an electrical engineer student. You dont see me trying to buff people about rebuilding engines......just because I know how to do it doesnt make me an expert. And whether or not you agree on spending $400 on an aluminum driveshaft is my decision not yours. Do what you want with your car right? Okay thanks.

Thought you guys would like this. http://www.nissanraceshop.com

You can change the valve spring cap and keeper but u need to bring thay cylinder to tdc and stuff some rope into the cylinder so the valve doesnt fall out. Also u need a ohc valve spring compressor that looks like a screwdriver with a hook on the end that hooks under the cam and an arm that presses the valve spring down at the same time. Its not the valve spring compressor that looks like three hooks and a lead screw through the middle. Its specifically usex when leaving the cam on the head. Look it up on ebay.

Lowering the rotating inertia weightl allow u to put a little more power to the wheels. So my slip yoke on my sdriveshaft is bad. Instead of getting a used part. Id rrather go with an upgrade. My car is far from stock at this point.

I like it. If you put a BMW v12 with ITB'S it would be a screamer.

I guess I'll play guinea pig! ahah

Im considering an aluminum performance shaft since my slip yoke is no good. Thanks!

Different guages will give you different readings. The important data from your test is how close the numbers are together. I remember I got 185-190 on each cylinder l28 flat tops.

valvoline vr1 racing oil is pretty good stuff.

My first headgasket job looked better than that. ANyways. nice setup

how much and give me the detail please

that car has some identity issues. sorry

Coolant flushes are fine. Prestone works great and take years of calcium off from running with tap water. There is a lot less to go wrong than an engine flush....those I dont like either.

I hate stant caps. You can get an OEM parts on ebay from Nissan of chesapeak. Rad cap is 17 dollars

You should buy new retainer springs