esmit208

To begin with I had a great time and met some great people. Got to see some amazing cars up close. Met the JDM guys, Eric and Mauricio and drank lots of beer. That was my first national event. Living on the east coast of Florida 3 hours away made it doable. I understand next years event is in Nashville at NISSAN north America HQ. I am reluctant to say I WILL BE THERE, a year out but that is the plan. As we all know plans change. Oh yeah, some good vendors for those working on projects.......LIKE ME! One in particular is Klassic Fab. www.kfvintagejdm.com. The carry everything for restoration except for a roof. All 4 now!

Not in sandy environments like Florida unless they want install an engine every 1.5 years. A good selling visual though. As far as 50K it depends on what buyer is willing to pay. It look ready to go but I'm not much for buying someone else's modifications. We will see.

Yes 1K is just about right and definitely try to learn using gas, (argon& Co2 mix) I was fortunate in that sense though. My Dad got a summer job for me working with him when I was just 15 years old welding. I hit 60 this year so there was a re-familiarization process but it was like riding a bike. If there is a junior college in your area it might be worth looking into to see if they offer a 1 semester class. You might find you like working with metal. Many real cool ideas if you are DIY guy. CONGRATULATIONS on the new addition BTW

I have been putting #6333 back together close to ten years! But things are done exactly the way I want them! NO SHORTCUTS WHATSOEVER. I plan to give one to both my sons if they should want them so it has to be right!

Before I realized how simple it was to rebuild SU's I went into Nissan of Melbourne and the guy at the counter didn't even know what an SU was! The young whipper snapper!

RIVETS.......were meant for aircraft made mostly of composites and aluminum, Not completely metal motocars!

I drove mine from Florida to Lexington Steam Corners to Santa Barbara and back. The best 6300 miles I ever spent!

Be sure to remember DAD this Sunday. I'm sure he would appreciate a cold ? for his effort!

Not a bad idea. It is probably not safe to drive at this point only because it might completely collapse hitting a pothole. WOW! But once again I have seen them replaced from the bulkhead forward

I have an extra crossmember. I will even sandblast and seal it for you before shipping. No hurry $50 you pay shipping. Shipping is maybe $10. Reinforcing it will work if you use the proper gage of metal. Once again it has to be welded into place. Did you ever think about moving away from places that salt or sand the roads? My goodness don't think I have ever seen a crossmember rotted through.

But overall are you satisfied with the results?

Upon first reading I suspected a vacuum issue. The cruise control in an 82 I had would not remain constant on uphill grades and it turns out a vacuum line behind the radio was the culprit. Dry... brittle etc. I suggest go back to basline settings , if you already haven't and work back up from there. While chasing the wrong issue I'm positive you adjusted yourself out of tune. Good Luck!

Glad to see you got this ISSUE sorted out. I've come across many of the cars and never saw a slave cylinder mounted on studs. If it were mine I would probably find another 4 speed for cheap and swap the front casing. No more issues with things being inside that were not designed to be inside. It sounds corny but HASTE does make WASTE!

CATA You face a few different issues. 15X8 In the rear probably WON'T let you stay under the car without touching somewhere. A 40 series tire will help with clearance but that tire is rather costly and doesn't offer much life, 25K miles if not used aggresively. 15X 7.5 or 15X7 is a better bet and you will probably have to use a spacer of some width to make sure you have backside clearance. I suffered clearance issues with my first set of tires running a 55 series tire. The profile will determine as much as the width. Remember the wheel technology was much different back then i.e. not FWD, plenty of ride height, etc. I too like the wheels under the car. Was never much for the flares and things. If you are planning to lower and stay underneath the car it is even more of a challenge. The MOMO is a 15X7 with 45 series rubber. No issues!

A RARE BREED.............auto trans. I never had one as many as I have had. If it is a steel line those are easy to reshape and reroute

GOTHAM 22 I like others have seen much worse. As a matter of fact if you look through the archives on this site several members have replaced everything forward of the bulkhead with great success. But these jobs (projects) were done by the owner of the vehicle in most cases. Don't get discouraged or daunted by your issue. Someone will do this for you but you should plan on the repair shop having the car for 90 days minimum and thats on the low end. But it would give you time to save up the $$$$$. Your car is increasing in value everyday and if you should decide to sell it you get your money back plus a decent profit if you can show a potential buyer what a good platform they have. I am currently putting #6333 back together and I did work in the same areas you have issues in although not quite as bad. I am doing my own cutting fitting and welding. It can be done but it is not a quick process. The comment about "RUST BEING LIKE ROACHES".....right on! If you do decide to have the work done I would suggest stripping all the undercoat off the bottom of the car to inspect the condition of the entire bottom. No point fixing it without fixing all of it. Chin up, Good Luck!

Does anyone have experience with DeVilbiss paint guns? If so share what you think about their application and quality. They advertise a complete kit at whaf I think is a very reasonable price! THANX

The only better choice would be 47mm OER's. Enjoy your trip you and the Mrs.

UConfirm that the teeth in the handle are not stripped. If all is ok with the handle the gear that controls the up and down movement seems to have some restriction. At any rate pull the door panel to inspect freedom of movement. This is relatively easy. The gear will be in plain sight then. Take the handle and check the operation. Not many things to trouble shoot. It also gives amchance to inspect the inside of the door for cancer. Good Luck!

Sorry JLP, the site is ZEDDSAVER. Good luck!

HAPPY WIFE........HAPPY LIFE!

Its going to take some massaging and caressing but I have a plan. I actually test fitted those pieces over a year ago. I didn't put themon because I was waiting to put the striker panel on first and then build from there. If you look closely you will see the underneath frame work needs a little work. STAY TUNED!??

A little late I guess but ZCAR Depot stocks them!

I have been anticipating putting this panel on for several years now. The delay has been mostly due to finishing work on other areas of the car. I ordered it from MSA. Some other vendors may stock the part but I already decided I would go with theirs. It came packaged nicely and has an anti-corrosive applied for storage and shipping. Decent grade of metal also. In the first picture the holes are cut in either side because I was going to just patch it but I began thinking it probably would not look as good as the entire panel put in nicely. The second picture is the panel freshly unboxed and just lying there. I needed to check to see where trimming of the old rotted piece would be needed. The next two pics are after the 50 year old piece was removed. You can see a few spot weld drilled out spots. The rust happened as a result of just tack welding and seam sealer from years ago. Not quite sure why a continuous bead wasn't run other than the major factors of time and cost. I think I am going to run a continuous bead. The vertical panel will be sandblasted at least the top 1/2 before joining the two. Separation wasn't all that difficult but a small bit of reshaping was needed after the old panel was removed. As it comes together expect more pics. "GO LIKE HELL....YOU'LL GET THERE!

SPACE COAST PLATING Melbourne Florida. They did pretty good work on my bumpers 15 years ago and the finish is still quality.