esmit208

A door panel has the right side to side curvature but lacks the front back curve, would be a challenge. The only way to be certain is a panel from a donor car or as I said before a skilled person with an English Wheel. Using a fresh piece of metal it might still take a try or 2 or 3.

Well since you have revealed that at least to a certain degree this was car was treated badly. All bets are more or less off. If you truly want to kill a Z let the engine overheat or let the components get wet. Either way not good. But all is no lost. You could convert it to carburetors or deal with a poor running car and electrical gremlins forever, taking into consideration you can even get it started. There is a member on this site that is really good with electronics on these cars. Dave is his name located in Marysville Washington. He is worth a call but if he can help you will have to extract certain parts and send them to him. Maybe he is not too far away you being in Oregon. You could continue throwing parts and frustration at it or you could maybe selling for parts. If it isn't running you will almost give it away to a buyer.

Well since you have revealed that at least to a certain degree this was car was treated badly. All bets are more or less off. If you truly want to kill a Z let the engine overheat or let the components get wet. Either way not good. But all is no lost. You could convert it to carburetors or deal with a poor running car and electrical gremlins forever, taking into consideration you can even get it started. There is a member on this site that is really good with electronics on these cars. Dave is his name located in Marysville Washington. He is worth a call but if he can help you will have to extract certain parts and send them to him. Maybe he is not too far away you being in Oregon. You could continue throwing parts and frustration at it or you could maybe selling for parts. If it isn't running you will almost give it away to a buyer.

Given the proper shape the heat from welding can be managed. But the car has to be flipped upside down to get the best weld penetration from the inside. And oh did I mention lots of PATIENCE! If a job like this was pricey I could understand. You have to pay for skill and expertise which are much more valuable than parts!

It could be done but someone that's really good with an English Wheel would have to be involved to shape the panel. You don't even know the size of your panel until you get the paint stripped off. And trust me it will be much larger than the hole for the roof!

Yes an interesting article indeed. Quite a simple but effective solution. Properly tuned with a stage 1 cam capable of 27 to 29 mpg. I can attest. They always work.

Keeping mine. Installing OER's but keeping mine. Will probably let ZTHERAPY redo them but not going to sell them. They will always work.

The thing is beauuuuuuutiful! But like yourself the sunroof would spoil it for me as well because they all leaked and most didn't have the best installation, very unsightly. I wish I would have known I could have welded a piece in to close it back up with unnoticeable results. That's probably what will happen to it someday. That fix alone will put it at 25K easily. Nice car though.

My only inclination would be to disconnect the proportioning valve under the car and start there to check for proper flow. Do you have stainless steel lines or rubber lines, do you see any moist areas around the brakes or anywhere else behind the four wheels? Check all areas for possible restrictions to fluid flow. It is okay if you can only adjust the brakes with the drums off, but remove the cylinder from the wheel and ensure that the adjustment wheel moves freely. There is a clip that holds the adjustment wheel in place when assembled. Lifting the clip will allow the wheel to move freely WHEN ASSEMBLED! Maybe the threaded parts on the adjust need to be cleaned. I had that issue with a brand new cylinder once. Also there is an adjustment nut on the brake pedal linkage under the dashboard. Sometimes these need to be pulled all the way down. This actuated the braking action sooner or later. This adjustment is on the rod that connects to the brake booster. Start under the dashboard and work your way to each wheel. Over the years these adjustments can be neglected if there seems to be no apparent problem. A system flush also wouldn't hurt especially if the fluid in the reservoir looks reddish brown.

Not always about the destination but sometimes the journey can hold more stories!

Is that what is commonly referred to as a proper SWIPE PATTERN? I have been trying to find this out forever. A very good picture of it BTW

I agree, I if you have taken apart carbs and small engines you can handle the work. Do you have enough metric tools? Do you have a torque wrench ft/lbs and in/lbs? Get a HAYNES MANUAL specifically for the engine. I see it has a turbo valve cover! This site is a great resource. Have plenty of space and plastic containers to organize everything. Motorsport Auto and others sell the tools needed to complete the valve work. A Haynes Manual shows you step by step leaving no dots to connect. You can build them like the professionals if you can afford the internals. I had a 2.8 with SU power built 17 years ago for about 3.5K to answer your question but it was nothing wild. A mildly wild one can cost about 11K and a really wild one can be north of 35K. Depends on how much you want to spend. Good luck!

One of the smallest particles is enough to cause drivability issues. I was on a trip between an F1 race in Indianapolis and Petit Lemans in Atlanta and had to pull over and take the lids off both carbs to check for foreign matter in Tuscaloosa AL. The car actually died on I-20 about 20 miles west of Tuscaloosa. Sure enough the rear carb had about 30% blockage where the metering needle goes through. Cleaned it and everything was fine after that. It might not seem like much but it doesn't take much. Remember this was top of the line precision back then. A full system clean will probably do the trick. Drop the tank replace the filters, treat the tank disconnect the fuel loop and blow high pressure air through the lines. Good Luck.

Looks good though. I used black paste shoe Polish with an old tooth brush.

Welcome to Datsun ownership. The noise sounds to me like a dodgy throw out bearing. I had a ZX that had similar symptoms. While driving rest your hand on the gear selector while in each gear. If you feel more vibration in one or two gears more than the others that is probably the root of your problem. If your selector seems to have excess waisted motion especially while in gear a worn bushing at the bottom of the selector can magnify this issue. Throw out bearings are not expensive but the Trans has to be pulled to install it. You can drop the Trans quite easily but up in the air on a lift is the safest because remember if you take it out in the garage you have to lift it back in. Good luck and this site is a tremendous source of how to maintain your car.

Pretty slick I must say especially the side marker.

The only burgers I eat are the ones made on the grill at home. Cheese BINDS me up so I stay away from that also. But can you say PUU PUU PLATTER! Me love PUU PUU PLATTER! YUM, YUM

Some guys have all the luck. I would like the adjustable camshaft sprocket myself. Glad you had a good time. What did you think about the food?

Pretty slick article. Not sure if it is a good thing or a bad that the value of our cars is rising. I personally think the economy dictates price more than collector value or other factors. I hope the price of parts doesn't all of a sudden go through the roof. I still have several years of work left.

THAT THING LOOKS SWEEEEEEEEEET.........SWEATS! I'm sure Oregon has some nice two lanes to give the suspension a good warming up. When I see a project come together it really inspires me to continue pushing forward with mine. Yeah driving and looking at the AFR...........Probably not a good idea. I might have to commit suicide if you posted pictures of it wrinkled beyond repair. CAN YOU SAY ROAD TRIP? NICE JOB.......

Hey that looks familiar

My condolences. I hope he goes to that better that we so often hear about.

My 2 cents.........the color........not a fan the interior enhancements not bad but if the factory guages work I prefer them the V8 conversion......not a fan body kit.........not a fan it destroys the sexy lines That being said if I had 75k it would go towards a nice used 911, provided my Z was all finished. Not quite sure why someone would dump that much money and time into a great car and sell it. So many enthusiasts abroad maybe one of them will plop down a few EUROS on it.

Believe it or not the sandblaster cost me $30 and I spent another $40 re-installing the plumbing. The previous owner was ready to throw it away. COMPRESSOR was bought from a friend who owns a shop in the neighborhood 60 gallon capacity. Compressor cost me $200 and I bought a new motor for it $110. I sort of fell into these two items but a fellow enthusiast pointed me in the right direction. 60 gallons is enough to run any air tools. The sand tank will hold about 125 psi at least the manufacturer suggests no higher than that and the 60 gallon will take it well above that. Sand will also expose any weak spots that wire wheels and abrasive discs won't. Good luck

Ok 930 I got in on this a little late. I too am an aspiring engineer so I get where you are coming from and like most others am quite a bit older than 16. 1st the metalwork, Harbor Freight sells an affordable sandblaster since you did disassemble about 60% of the car and it's not too late to do the job all the way. 2nd kudos to you for even buying this car considering the spaghetti bowl that wiring harness looked to be. 3rd you probably won't end up keeping this car due in part because of your age and if you turn out to be a successful engineer you will be making enough money to go out and but the latest iteration of the 911 or 458. So it may seem like site users are being overly critical because we plan to KEEP our cars. Most of us probably don't use them daily but they can be used daily which is why you may have gotten some unexpected feedback on your fuel cell. 3rd, here's my take on the fuel cell, I wouldn't go that route because it holds less fuel and it raises the C/G (center of gravity). Raising the C/G can alter the handling characteristics of the car which could put you in a dangerous situation under spirited driving conditions or even normal driving conditions depending on road surface conditions. No one here wants to see anyone get hurt or worse. It is your car do what you want with it. Experiment, that's what engineers do, try out new concepts and ideas. You are beginning with a relatively light (weight) platform. It is very easy to try and reinvent the wheel so to speak and overpower these cars and most of us have seen it done before with not so great results. Just remember, racing is meant for racetracks not public roads so decide for yourself if you want a racer or a machine you can drive everyday if you choose to and look damned cool while doing so. Judging by the posts to your build most just can't seem to figure your rationale with certain mods. When I saw the harness I couldn't see your rationale for even buying the thing but I'm sure many thought that about me when I bought my 1970. Carry on young man but read, read, read. Invest in a sandblaster. You will be glad you did. Much faster than abrasive disks and wire wheels and much more thourough also. GOOD LUCK!