esmit208

NOT WRONG! I would take good sheet metal and a complete car as well. The low VIN'S typically need more work or have had lots of work done.

TC RODS! Check the factory settings recommending. If the virtual axle (wheel hubs) are not aligned it will cause a DEATH VIBRATION under acceleration and braking you can get a WOBBLE. TIE RODS. COUNT the turns out and put on the same number of turns in and you will be back where you started. But get an alignment to make sure it's spot on. Good luck.

Looks cool even siting on the alignment rack!

Looks like a pretty good route. Not too many little towns. I really enjoy the secondary roads. Hope there is a cool little place to get food along the way. Have a great time and be safe.

Doesn't appear to have been abused but since you have it all apart why not put in some new muscle?

Try to get a tool on both ends of the bolt and nut. You may have a rust through situation at the connecting points. A Dremel is a good idea but keep it from doing collateral damage could be an issue. Since you are trying to put on an aftermarket body part there could be an issue with your installation. Some of your current connecting points will or may be needed to secure your air damage properly so you don't want to damage them. Good luck.

SWEATS I have a couple gear selectors from different gearboxes and there is some slight difference to length and geometry. If you are looking for a drastic difference there is a short throw kit that MSA sells and probably a few other vendors. I actually like the longer throw. I drove one with the short throw kit installed and didn't like the feel, it seemed a little vague on the selection maybe because I was used to something else. When will the video be posted of it HOWLING to life? I can't wait!

My MOM had the replacement procedure done 2 years ago and she recovered nicely. No other issues besides getting on in years. Pleases know that the community gives their best wishes for a speedy recovery.

Very nice not sure I would sell it if it were mine. A good platform for performance upgrades.

I wanna go . I never get to go anywhere but to some stupid JOB. That's OK, One day I'm gonna stick it to the MAN. To all that have a chance to go HAVE A GREAT TIME!

Very talented young young man. I wonder what he would do with a nude female?

Yes the grill is quite intricate but it looks good when finished. Nice job SWEATS. You will have to post a video of the engine growling soon!

Thanks still have yet to install them but when I do will give you a yell.

Guess I am a lifelong sucker then!

Looks like it was a great time. Makes me think about going through the Ozarks many years ago.

Can you and your son do any work yourselves? Do the two of you have time, money, and desire to do work yourselves? You have decided you want a Z but there are a few things to be considered. We are all enthusiasts here and would never discourage someone from buying a car, but as well we are REALISTS. Either you will pay a lot of money for a car that needs nothing, or you will pay relatively little money for something that needs a lot! If someone has done all the work and has a jewel he will want a jewelers price for it. I paid 2k for mine back in 1994 and I am still working on it today just to improve and keep it all in one piece. First figure your price point. Remember it is your price point not someone else's. Answer the 2 questions at the top of this response. I don't think anyone wants to see the two of you end up with buyers remorse or a pink elephant. Personally if I'm going to spend more than 17k for a vehicle it would have to be a new or nearly new vehicle, not one of these cars that could need quite a bit of work just to make it a safe daily driver let alone performance enhancements. Look around a lot. A car that is in better shape structurally will have spent it's life in the desert southwest or some other dry climate. If it spent it's life in a humid climate like the one you posted it will more than likely need (some) metal replacement to some degree. I bought both of mine because they were complete, one sat for at least 7 years and the other one I'm not quite sure how long but I knew what I was getting myself into, even more so the second time.

I've seen electrical problems on these cars that were less complicated. I would give her the keys and her "CLEAN TITLE" and go have a beer. That made me thirsty just reading it. It seems as if you are truly trying to help but this is bordering on some trouble you could probably do without.

NO SIREE BOB! Could be a daily driver and car show quality after much time effort and $$$$$! If you were getting it for 5K or so you would have plenty leftover to at least get the valance below the doors and the rest of the known cancer areas squared away. This rig needs lots of metal work and if you are no good with a welder you better have plenty of $$$$$$$ to pay someone who is. Normally cars in this shape need to be completely taken apart and worked thouroughly. BTW I agree with the CRACK PIPE PRICING assessment!

I'm confused, why didn't she go through the title transfer herself? It is a simple process. I would get the title in her name as a first step or buy it from her and then resale it as your vehicle. In its current condition depending on how it really runs 3.5K seems about right. Any knowledgeable Z enthusiast will know where to look for the standard cancer spots on these cars. Anyone who is truly interested will want to have a close inspection of it so be prepared. If it has been water saturated it will be obvious so the offering price will be lowered accordingly. These cars are approaching 50 years of age and most of them depending on care need work, some more extensive than others. Good luck.

Currently getting fresh metal where needed

Are you using return springs?

CASTLELATED I believe is the correct term. We used the quite often in aircraft manufacturing. There is a cap the goes on before the cotter pin. I believe it is to prevent chaffing of the pin itself if the nut unwinds a bit.

Bleeding not difficult. Need a bleed tool or someone in the car to pump the clutch. Slave cylinder is on th passenger side of Trans. When you inspect it it will probably be a little moist. The slave cylinder doesn't hold much fluid so the slightest loss will cause gear selection difficulty. Maybe a 45 minute fix.

Yes I removed mine. No issues afterwards. Hanging up in the garage at the moment.

Confucius once say, "HAPPY WIFE, HAPPY LIFE". edtwomuchz asks, Do you want to be right or happy?