esmit208

I agree the price is much more than I would pay even if it was driveable. But if I had room for another resto job I might offer $2500. Low VIN numbers mean nothing anyway unless someone wants a concourse 240. Or is that concors? Somebody help me.

That is WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYY COOL OILUJ. My heart races just thinking of it. I hope the wife thinks all the work, time and expense was worth it. I'm taking mine up into Wyoming and Montana when it hits the road. I hear there is a really nice AND UNCROWDED highway that runs through the Rocky mountain chain up there. Me and my oldest Son.

Thanks a bunch Mike:beer:

How do you like the exhaust note? Is the exhaust pipe travel underneath the car messy or neat? Please post pics

OK to all the North American owners I just shot a question to www.fujitsubousa.com to ask about LHD applications for this unit. As soon as I get a response I will post it. If they get enough requests maybe someone can be contracted to produce these in the States. I would be willing to wait for one to come from Japan if I knew for sure they fit without any modifications. All I want for Christmas is....................!

ZCURVCES if you mean the chrome attachment pieces yes I have at least 4 of them all in good shape. E-mail me at edtwomuchz@gmail.com

Well congrats Arnie but unless you plan to restore it I would have left it for the crusher. Happy Hunting!

Yes it is a nice job. I too would be interested in purchasing a replacement panel. Anyone that can put us on to a source would be much appreciated. I plan to cut mine away and start fresh. Project 3/72 moves along slowly.

As if often the case with cars of this type and this condition the seller realizes it will probably only appeal to someone that doesn't want to spend countless hours and $$$ on a full blown restoration. So having said that decide how much you will spend, go take a look at the car, make the guy an offer. No one ever has a problem with cash so if it were me I would have it in hand. If this is what YOU want then no price speculated on in this forum will change your mind. Any car like this will not come flawless if it were the person would not sell it as it would have taken a substantial amount og time and $$$$ to get it flawless. You only live once, why not live with a 240Z

I could never figure out how women end up with really nice cars and don't realize what they have! WELCOME STANGRAGE

Hey Mikez73 I'm working on the same area but mine is in the process of complete restoration. A Dremel is handy for this and other cramped areas I.E. wiper cowls and underneath. Many attachments that get into these areas thouroughly. Have fun.

ULTIMATELY...it is worth what the seller is asking or what the buyer is willing to pay. Mymind always tells me to pay no more than the original sticker price. So knowing that I buy one for almost nothing and restore it. BUT ....That's just me. If someone wants a nice machine like this without having to put much work into it then don't expect the seller to give it away. Chances are he realizes he will find a buyer and is in no hurry to be lowballed.

Well ZODB I just about agree with eveyone else's opinion. But if you hang on to it emotionally you may never feel as if you got a fair price for a nice piece on history. I personally wouldn't sell. I would give it to the kid that just graduated. It would be a great way for him to hone his mechanical skills. The asking price is right but as you know people will naturally try to lowball you. So set a price sell it and forget about it.

You have a good starter. Do it slow and thourough. If you cut corners you will end up doing it again. I suggest a triple carb setup for fuel delivery. Remember....HAPPINESS is NOT just around the corner..HAPPINESS IS THE CORNER!.... Good Luck

Call Dave Rebello of Rebello Racing in Antioch California. He should be able to help you out with advice and/or the correct balancer. Be prepared though he might have some technical questions though such as fuel delivery method I.E carbs or fuel injection.

A HAYNES manual for that year and engine should answer your question. Happy Driving!

ZEXPERTS on Lincoln BLVD in Venice. They are in the phone book Or they might spell it ZXPERTS. Say hello to Richard for me.

ZEXPERTS on Lincoln BLVD in Venice. They are in the phone book Or they might spell it ZXPERTS. Say hello to Richard for me.

I am interested in the bumpers and the grill if they are in one piece. No rusted through spots. The pitted finish is OK. Please email some up close pics to edtwomuchz@gmail.com

BTF/PTM Do not cut the harness to add or modify anything. I found out the hard way this is not the thing to do with 30 year old non-transistorized wiring. I got back from a road trip to Houston and two days later I had a main harness fire. If the fire had occurred while I was on the road the car would have been burned to the ground. Cutting the harness causes more resistance than the system was designed for thus causing hot spots. Spend the 150 dollars on the upgrade or possibly risk losing the car. For anyone interested a company out of Ormond Beach Florida will build and ship S30 complete main harnesses. Cost is approximately $200. BTW I still have the car just need to save money for the main harness. Good LuckLuck

Indeed you have a lobor of lust like the rest of us enthusiasts. To me it doesn't matter how much you will have into it dollar wise when it is complete. I admire the fact that cost is not a factor, or so it seems, but having it the way YOU want it is what seems to be important. Do us all a simple favor though if I may be so bold as to ask on everyones behalf, PLEASE DON'T LET ANY RACING ACCIDENTS HAPPEN TO IT! No doubt some EUROTUNER will want to see just how fast it is. We all hope you get to enjoy many many touring miles tucked comfortably into the left seat. Remember....HAPPINESS is NOT just around the corner...HAPPINESS IS THE CORNER! Be Cool.

If you have some charcoal starter around that will do the trick as well. It's base agent is a chemical called NAPTHALENE. We used it at a place I used to work and it would clean up sealant like no one's biz. Use a thick pair of rubber gloves though it will burn the skin

I apologize for not responding before noe GREEN. I used an acetlyne torch and just waited for them to disintergrate....only took a few moments and the mustache bar did not disfigure. To re-install I used a standard shop press and had no issues. Mine don't quite look like your though. I would probably re-install those if I were you. Most repair shops have presses if not a machine shop will. Good Luck

Well first decide if you want a fuel injected or carburetted engine. If you wish to keep it injected you can retro fit with larger injectors and a larger mass air flow sensor. Pierce Manifolds in Goleta California is a good place to search for performance parts and technical advice. Also I would suggest giving Dave Rebello a call to see what he has to say. Remember though you can't have a race car for the street and vice versa. You can have a good performing car for the street though. Good Luck

I would like to thank everyone for the input and information. I wasn't even aware that this was an upgradeable item. We shall all meet someday somewhere and share a pint along with restoration stories. I TOLD THE COP" I wasn't speeding, I was QUALIFYING!