esmit208

RELEASE THE HOUNDS!

The rust inspired me even more!

I thought the floor in #6333 were in bad shape. To everyone viewing it just goes to show that with a little ingenuity, the right tools, patience(lots of that) these rigs can be better than new especially with the coating technology. I will be working on the same area in Project 3/72 meanwhile take a look at some current floor work in #6333

Thanks Steve I will give it a shot and post my results

Also one other question is it possible to test the ammeter for functionality? I.E. Does it actually work without the car running?

Ammeter is hooked up but I might have to pull the dashboard out again to check it as it is almost impossible to do a thourough check when trying to work under the dash iin these cars. The dashboard was out of the car when the dashboard section of the harness was installed. I will have to remove it again to do an inspection. No rust on the fuse box but it is the factoryt unit and 41 years old. The main red and white wire that screws into the back of it is not getting power either. But thanks to everyone who offered input. I will let you all know how it goes. If anyone can come up with anything else please feel free to email me at edtwomuchz@gmail.com

Thanks guys All grounds were checked and checked again. Strange though I tested with a test light and only 2 fuses are getting power. The fusible link running from the started to the main harness is the only thing inside the.car getting power. Even the red and white wire that screws into The back of the fuse box gets NO POWER. Where is Dave when you need him. If anyone sees or talks to him ask him to read my thread and contact me. 772-205-4349. That is Dave from Marysville Washington. AKA ZsOndaBrain. Once again thanks

YES but I will give another check on Saturday

They look GREAT. I will place my order this evening.

I have a set of 47MM and plan to install them maybe sometime after the first of the year. I spoke with Dave Rebello and he seems to be quite knowledgeable about OER's. Also I purchased mine from PIERCE MANIFOLD out of Goleta California just north of Santa Barbara complete with the intake. About $1200.00 for everything and they have a pretty comprehensive selection of other performance parts. Good luck!

Hello crowd I know its been a while but I have been trying to get #6333 back on the road again after a main harness fire back in 2005. I was able to scavenge an exact copy of a good unmolested harness from an early 1972. #6333 was built in the spring of 1970 but the harness is the exact same. After many weeks of of cleaning the harness up an soldering some ragged spots and recovering it I have it installed and all connections completed. I put a battery in it this morning but nothing inside works. No lights, the starter does not turn over, no brake lights, NO NOTHING. Can someone shed some light on something I may have missed. At the moment I am at work and it is really bugging me. I hoped at least the dashboard gauge lights would work. I'm really stoked to almost be able to drive it again after almost 8 years of garage life. Any assistance would be appreciated. BTW the fuse box gets power but the power does not seem to be going past the fuse box. Currently I have the factory fuse box installed but an upgrade to an MSA box is on the near horizon. If anyone has a hint you can also e-mail me at edtwomuchz@gmail.com THANX

Somoeone may have installed a digital clock or some other guage that only lights when the ignition is turned over!

SPORTBM I can't add much more than the others have. I would be most concerned that if you are able to get it to be a daily driver how reliable will it be? Or should I say "How problematic will it be?" You said you learned your lesson 2 tears ago but it seems the lesson wasn't thorough enough. Keep the bottom end, try to sell the top end for a carburetted engine and saty away from the forced induction mods. Those engines weren't really designed for forced induction technology of today. It is much more complicated than plug and play. I understand you want it the way that you want it but ask yourself "Is the hassle what I really wanted" My 2 cents

Well I have replaced the lines throughout in my AVATAR but it was a rolling shell. If you are not able to get the factory section already formed that will require you to bend them yourself. Not a huge issue as long as you have the section that will be replaced as a guide a pipe bending tool and some time and patience. My AVATAR was a shell with no driveshaft,rear diff, or suspension to snake past. It may look like a job of disconnect and reconnect but it can be a tedious job and if done proper as EURODAT so succintly put it yes it would be about 2.5 to 3 hours per side.

My plan is to intall the ZX map light where the 240Z dome light goes. I always liked the swivel aspect.

SLICK AS HELL! even without sound at work. I could just imagine the sound.

I installed an MSD ignition and they sell the unit that allows the tachometer to continue working just fine. Any perfomance shop that sells the ignition module will usually carry the unit that allows the tach to continue to function. I also installed the kit that allows for conversion from mechanical to electronic ignition. No issues so far for almost 11 years.

I just can't wrap my mind around why someone would thhrow so much money at ruining a good car instead of taking that money and time to make a REALLY GREAT car. I just don't get it.

From the moment I stumbled onto this site and learned of the 240K I have tried to find something appealing about it from every possible viewing angle but for some reason I JUST CAN'T. Maybe it is because they were never sold in NA or maybe it is because I never saw one other than in pictures. The AUSSIE group here seem to do a real nice job of restoring them and giving them some real muscle but I just can't seem to find anything aesthetically appealing about them. They look like a smaller version of the Dodge Charger after it was tamed down or a car from the 70's that blue collar guys bought to use for work purposes. I would like to get some more opinions from NA 240Z owners. THANX

That Baby looks SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET ZED!

Ok fellow enthusiasts, I'm looking for some suggestions or some direct examples of camshaft profiles or camshafts that were used in your stroker builds. This is the planned setup: 47MM OER Triples 3.1 engine block bore Electric fuel pump Combination of 93 octane pump fuel and racing fuel N42 Cylinder head This is what I read on the MSA site Fuel Delivery System: For Camshafts 10-2001, 10-2002, and 10-2003, we offer a different grind for O.E. Fuel Injection vehicles (this is required for proper operation). Camshafts 10-2004, 10-2005, and 10-2006 are not for use with O.E. Fuel Injection systems, regardless of upgrades. Air Flow Meters used with O.E. Fuel Injection systems will not operate properly with these camshafts. Aftermarket (racing) Fuel Injection systems can be used with all of our camshafts. Camshaft Comparison: If you aren't certain which cam to choose, you can look back at the main camshaft information page for base information, and check below for characteristics of each option, and/or just give our sales technicians a call at (800)633-6331 for help deciding on the best cam for your Z. 10-2001 Lift(In/Ex): .460/.460. Duration(In/Ex): 260/260. Characteristics: Moderate idle, good power 1500-5000 RPM. Use with S.U. Carburetors, Weber DGV, Four Barrel Conversion, or O.E. Fuel Injection. 10-2002 Lift(In/Ex): .480/.480. Duration(In/Ex): 274/274. Characteristics: Good idle, power range 2000-6000 RPM. Great slalom grind. Use with S.U. Carburetors, Weber DGV, Triple Carburetors, Four Barrel Conversion, or O.E. Fuel Injection. 10-2003 Lift(In/Ex): .460/.460. Duration(In/Ex): 270/280. Characteristics: Rougher idle, excellent performance. Pulls hard from 3000-6500 RPM. Use with Weber DGV, Triple Carburetors, Four Barrel Conversion, or O.E. Fuel Injection. 10-2004 Lift(In/Ex): .495/.495. Duration(In/Ex): 290/290. Characteristics: Rough idle. Midrange and top end power cam for well setup car. Drag or track racing. Use with Triple Carburetors, Four Barrel Conversion, or Aftermarket Fuel Injection. 10-2005 Lift(In/Ex): .560/.560. Duration(In/Ex): 300/300. Characteristics: Excellent road race power, 4000-8500 RPM. Use with Triple Carburetors, Four Barrel Conversion, or Aftermarket Fuel Injection. 10-2006 Lift(In/Ex): .620/.624. Duration(In/Ex): 304/318. Characteristics: Competition only. Power from 4500 to 8500 RPM. Use with Triple Carburetors, Four Barrel Conversion, or Aftermarket Fuel Injection. It looks as if the 10-2002 profile would be the most desireable due to the fact that this will be an everday user although I probably won't drive it everyday, unless of course it proves to be incredibly fun to drive. It will probably never see any track days unless I have the track all to myself, which will probably never happen. I am shooting for a powerplant with good in town manners and above average highway power and above all reliability. To anyone whose interested please share some of your camshaft types so I will have a good knowledge base before I purchase. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks ED

I agree with keeping it. The money you might NOT make in a sale can be used to forge ahead with what you are doing. In it's current shape a potential buyer will just try to wear you down on the selling price and you may not have enough money to buy one in the shape you HOPE for. Project 3/72 is a rolling shell and probably needs more work than "Mr. Limey", no intense offended. You are further along than you think although I know you are just itching to drive and stop restoring. Trust me I know the feeling. Since you have the welder do the repairs yourself. In the end all the thanks will go to you.

What a great video and a really cool drive. When i do this trip I will do it in the cool time if the year with one of my sons. My mind gets lost just watching the video. Somewhere to go and plenty of time to get there. The desert is a really beautiful and harsh place and no place to be when it's hot in a dodgy car. my hat goes off to people who can gey away and do things like this. You never forget periods like this in your life. I hope to see one of you on ROUTE 66 someday!

If you have that much money lying around why wouldn't you find one worth restoring to a condition that YOU want? All that "MATCHING NUMBERS" crap in the end means nothing anyway other than conversation material while you stand around drinking beers at the next enthusiast meeting. If you plan on using these cars the way they were meant to be used you will be replacing wear and tear items anyway. And who wants a garage queen anyway?

Hey KELLY MISS this is not the place to advertise your cheap leftover flea market crap. Take that BULL**** somewhere else to try and pawn it off.