esmit208

I have to ditto on the MSA door pieces. I bought and installed them in 2000 and the first time you see water leaking in you are definitely not happy. The door never closed properly either. I am going to spend what it costs to have it like it should be. I have read some happy results by those that used the Kia part.

That looks Soooooooo CooooooooooooooL!

Good find. My roomates TR7 was the very first two seater I drove. That thing handled like a dream and had plenty of power even with two people in it. His had a crank open cloth roof that kept it nice and comfortable in side. Only problem was we lived in southwest Mississippi in the mid to late 70's and the olny dealership that could work on it was an hour and a half away in Jackson. It had what I seem to remember were factory Zenith carburettors that had chronic problems. He had no idea how to work on it so whenever it had issues it meant a HUGE tow bill for his Dad who was needless to say not happy. If you plan to keep it I would suggest a conversion to a good Japanese or Italian sidedraft. We drove all over SW Mississippi and NE Louisanna in that rig. I'm 6'2" and it had plenty of leg room. I almost bought one when I was in the Air Force but once again the closest dealer was 1.5 hours away in North Dakota. The harsh winters would have killed it.

CONDODGER Wolf Creek racing and Pierce Manifolds sells those filters. I think they would probably be good for filtration although I wouldn't operate them in overly dusty or sandy climates. When atmospheric conditons are optimum I'll bet they let the engine breath really nicely. Install those and take it out on the freeway for 100 miles and I'll bet the plugs clean up nicely.

Do you have a fan shroud? Many underestimate the importance of a shroud. Without it air goes around the radiator matrix instead of through it. elementary my dear Watson..........Elementary

MOMO Stars 16X7

Any clearance issues? I like the ride height

I actually took a 14" fillet knife to the underside of mine before sandblasting. After the knife I used charcoal starter on a rag to completely clean off any leftover undercoat residue. I did it in sections so it took a while but it has a thourough cleaning underneath. Besides you want to expose any cancer before you begin applying a final undecoat.

That looks SOOOOOOOOOOOO COOOOOOOOOOOOL!

I guess 240Z's look as strange to you AUSSIE's as 240K's look to us Americans. Carry On

Zedyone I have been monitoring this post somewhat losely but between now and the end of the year I will sit on the end of my seat wondering how it all went. People like yourself and me are the reason cars were built. We see beyond their use as status symbols or the mundane daily commute to give our lump of coal. We see them as vehicles that let you escape to that dimension we all dream about as we tweak and tune. We watch sunset after sunset wondering what it would be like to be belted in at that very moment with no destination. I too my friend have been there. The amount of work that you have put in only inspires me to keep pushing with my machine. I do have one piece of advice. RELAX. Act as if you have been here before. Have as much fun as is possible within the limits of the law. Don't worry about anything. If you have a mechanical issue it will be a part of the adventure but I am positive you won't. You have put true workmanship into a fine piece of machinery so go out and enjoy. Keep us updated.

TABCO has coupe skins and are worth calling about the 2+2 skins

Let it be a reminder to all....Cars are not toys! I send my condolenses

LARRY The ECM that sits behind the kick panel at your left foot could be the culprit. They got progressively better over the years and generally failed if they got wet from a water leak of some type as a result of a unseen rusted area. The early FI models (77,78,79) had lots of issues because of this. The problem is intermittent and because those modules have no port to plug a diagnostic computer into often they are difficult to diagnose. I actually found out they will flash a light when something is wrong in the system similar to current day vehicles displaying a code when something is wrong. If you can install a known working module for a test of about a week or so you might be surprised by your results. ZEXPERTS in Venice and Redondo Beach ZWORLD both did some work for me and ZEXPERTS are very knowledgable. Open the driver door and make sure there is no rust along the seam that joins the front clip of the car to the body. If there is chances are water leaked in on that module. My best guess.

My AVATAR was shipped from Los Angeles to Largo Florida(Tampa St. petersburg) for $700.00. I did have the benefit of living in one place and knowing a guy in Largo (D'Elegance Auto Jack and Ralph Ransky) to ship it to. If you have to make a trip to inspect it yourself it may be in good enough shape to drive it back. It's not about the destination, it's about the journey!

As well I like the wheels but I agree with TOPZ yes they would be very tempting to buy a set if they were in a 16X7 diameter and width. Tire selection is very good and 16" wheels and tires fill up the wheel well nicely. 35 series tires or even 40 series have no clearance issues with adjustable suspension.

A GOOD Z? GOOD as in hop in and drive or GOOD as in needs some work that won't bankrupt you? In Texas and OK if you do a search online you can find many cars in various stages of their 40 plus years of life. The main goal would be to establish a price that you are comfortable with and then decide how much (if any) time and resources you want to put into getting it the way you want it. A HOP IN AND DRIVE CAR will probably cost you more than you want to spend. A NEEDS SOME WORK CAR can mean working on it for several years. An owner of a flawless car will not part with it cheaply if at all. My suggestion is to first and foremost get a complete car. Complete meaning it has not been parted out although it may need a reasonable amount of refurbishment. If it is complete but does not work you can replace. If it is not complete you may not even realize it. STAY AWAY FROM SOMEONE ELSE'S PROJECT. If they gave up on it there is no telling how big that pink elephant will grow to be. I personally don't care for heavily modified cars so approach those with caution. If you have limited mechanical expertise those can be a PITA. If you drive around out in the rural areas with small little towns like McAllester, Shawnee etc you might find a keeper on the back lot of an auto repair garage. You know the kind of place with the old style gas pumps that haven't been used for over 50 years. You would be surprised by what you can find driving around on country roads. Take a look at the classified section on this site also.Good Luck

Can someone explain to me WHY you need an APU in a car?...Any Car. Can someone also explain to me why you would waste time and effort doing something like this. The owner could have a really nice car considering the money spent

They were probably made in Canada but sent to China to have the "FIRM GRIP CRV CANADA" embossed onto them.............Well maybe not

CONGRATULATIONS All of us here have done some restoration to some degree or another. My particular approach (and I have been working on mine for almost 3 years) I began with the idea that I WAS NOT IN A HURRY. My project has much more cancer than your appears to have so you are definitely way ahead of the game. I have purchased a welder and a sandblaster knowing that the most cost effective way for me to complete it someday is to do as much as I can myself. This is my second project so I already have first hand knowledge of what to expect. I am going the "put a protective coat on every piece of metal that I can" route. Powder coating where I can and a complete sand blasting front to back inside and out on the body. Buying small ancilliary parts along the way. I am going all out on the suspension and a planned 3.1 stroker with triple OER carburettors. I have put much thought and planning into this one because it has to last. Make sure you have a place it can always be inside and protected from the elements the entire way. After you get all the carpet out and inside trim pieces out you may find a little more cancer but your basic platform looks to be in good shape. Plan on removing the dashboard and guages while under construction so that dirt and contamination from cleaning will not damage anything behind it. Think about all the upgrades that you want to do and incorporate them into the rebuild during the process. The more you have to add things after a fresh coat of paint the easier it is to mess up a nice paint job. For ease of movement take the front suspension off in one piece and then the car can be lifted from the front end and pushed around quite easily with the rear suspension still attached. Every fastener that you remove try to have some sort of container(preferrably glass) to store them in. My wife likes pickles so it makes it easy to see what's inside. We also drink powdered drink mix so those containers work well also you just have to write what the container holds. I have an old bedroom dresser in my garage to store all the containers. Once you get the dashboard out you will be able to get a good look for any rust and or holes that the dashboard may be hiding. You will need a good set of metric tools from 6mm all the way up to at least a 27mm depending on how much engine work you plan to do. Oh yeah deep and shallow well sockets. For ease of movement take the motor, front suspension, gearbox, and rear differential out. The gas tank comes out easily. In order to inspect and refinsh underneath thouroughly the gas tank has to come out. You can inspect the float easier with the tank out. Do a good bright light inspection in the dark so you can find any pinholes in the floor firewall or rear deck. Plan to re-tape and possibly shrink wrap the entire wiring harness from front to rear. If you want to convert your fuel pump from mechanical to electric it will be easy to run your circuit for the electric fuel pump with the main harness removed. Lots of dirt can collect behing the dashboard over 40 plus years. As you unplug the harness take a marker and mark the matching plugs using a letter or number system. The better you organize and look after all the components the easier the re-assemble will be. BTW I also bought a 60 gallon air compressor to aid in all the refinishing work. A DREMEL will come in handy for small shaping and cutting projects. A ROLOC tool is also a good addition to the tool box. I could go on but if you want to know something in particular just shoot myself or anyone a PM and you should get a quick response. We are all here to help. REALLY IMPORTANT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!BE PATIENT. Don't let frustration or fatigue get the best of you. Get help rather than break something and add to your cost. These are simple cars to work on but a lot has to be learned. Attached are a few pics of my machine and it's slow transformation. Good Luck and if you have any questions just ask.