esmit208

You cut off some of the part #. Please send a pic of the full part number

Very Nice!

Performance N42's are not cheap ..at least I haven't been able to find one.

I just sent a set of those to ZsOndaBrain (aka Dave Irwin) besides if Bruce doesn't know no one does. There is a thread in this forum addressing that type of SU.

It can look better than THAT someday!

SKILLINP This car is a perfect candidate for a full restoration. First...there are no quick fixes for the rust that you have uncovered and no doubt will uncover in the future. Second...Yes the floor pans are important for structural rigidity. Third...only if you are really committed should you undertake the task ahead of you. Full restoration is not a quick process even if you have the time and money. Undertake this task only if you plan to keep the car. It sounds as if you are young enough to have many years of enjoyable driving. Trust me many of us have cars that were in worse shape than yours when we took posession of them. You can learn tons and make some pretty cool acquaintances. Parts are plentiful as well as a vast sea of knowledge. Here are some pics of the 1972 I have been working on since 2009. As you can see I have a long way to go yet but the journey is a lot of hard work and fun. Good Luck and persevere.

This is what my battery tray area looks like now. Left and righ rocker as well before sand blasting.

Goin' hard at it! I LOVE IT! My 72 is just waiting for me to get a WELDER. Just keep dreaming of the day it's all finished.

Kick his AZZ if you ever meet him!

HEALYALT I had an old knife lying around in the garage somewhat like a fillet knife approx 12 to 13 inches long. I used the end of it to break the top layer of undercoat and then it was just a matter of using it somewhat like a paint scraper. I went from fron to back underneath in sections. There is a slightly tacky residue that is left which is easily removed using napthlalene (aka charcoal starter). It cleans it down to the anti-corrosive that the factory applied and then it was just a matter of sandblasting. I didn't worry about the time consuming factor because I planned to spend as much time as it takes to have no rust issues ever again.

Keep going WDILL! You are almost there.

I agree on the influence of the other designers. I'm glad it didn't end up being the one with 4 headlamps. I never would have embraced that look. I am also glad they decided on the hatchback look for final production. Soft top Z-cars never appealed to me.

Reminds of SoCal sunsets. Can't drive on the beach but every bit as spiritual. Use to love those late evening rides north on the PCH from Los Angeles to Santa Barbara. Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh!

Simzger The center console comes out easily and has plenty of room underneath it if you do decide to go with a new head unit. After the wires exit the rear of the console it is just a matter of running them through the aforementioned dogleg into the quarter panel and then rearward. I already have done my 1970 (see AVATAR) like that. The main harness firewall location has plenty of room to run an additional wire through to the battery. AND BY ALL MEANS DON'T CUT AND WIRE INTO THE IGNITION HARNESS. Solder all connections. NO BUTT CONNECTORS. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to go to a professional installer with your plan an $200 or so.

Yeah, I hope I never get there but I know thw possibility does exist. Maybe it's time to go for a long drive in your rig. I mean 30 days long!

1970 240Z built 6/70 and a 1972 built in 3/72. All the parts to put the 72 back together after metalwork and paint are complete. Will replace the main harness in the 70 while the 72 is at the body shop. 60 gallon air compressor several thousand dollars in tools and oh yeah the dreaded LAWN MOWER! If the grass is greener on the other side does it grow as fast as mine?

I would rather have a VW wagon. Datsun wagons never did it for me.

WD I don't own either but from what I understand any type of side draft carburettor that utilizes an accelerator pump is easier to start than a carburettor that dosen't. The optimum solution is to employ a choke mechanism like the SU's employ. BTW I own a set of 47MM OER's. When I install them I will let you know how they cold climate start.

BRAVO You will probably realize that most of us try to stay away from politcally sensitive subjects. We just like our old cars. With the state of affairs in this country who needs the extra stress of being insensitive to someone of another culture. As if we don't already have enough of that here. Had it not been for the Rebuilding Act enacted for both Europe and Japan Mr.K may never have come up with the funding for our OLD CARS. PEACE

Yes......Good job indeed SITE. I remember my first engine snatch. I was really worried about getting all the connections right during the reinstall. My solution was to place a tag on everything that had to be reconnected. Worked like a charm. During the reinstall I was afraid to lift the engine with the A-frame for fear I would drop it. If people think it doesn't get cold in Alabama tell them to go anywhere north of Interstate 10. It's cold north of that route at Thanksgiving. The engine bay refurbish should just about get you through the winter. Good Luck!

Welcome Ted, is there another Z car in your future?

Correction ........he really hasn't asked for a minimum price. He seems to be waiting for the highest bidder. Total investment means nothing to me. Lets hear a rock bottom price!

I would lay down the 21K he is asking if I had it. My very first Z was a 1982 2+2 and this car takes me back to those times. I believe he will get it. These cars are good for the highway and city. Tuned well with the 20 gallon gas tank you can get almost 500 miles on a full tank. Besides it would allow me to keep the miles off the nice 240. Wish me luck on the POWERBALL!

Good Deal!

It's best to call or contact them and get a clear answer for this one.