esmit208

Let me look in he garage. I know I have at least one that I won't be using. I saw it Saturday while I was cleaning old undercoat off Project 3/72. I had all 4 wheels as well but one somehow was misplaced. I will PM you later Sunday evening.

Tymarbry I have to ditto the sentiments of others here. MSA in addition provides technical support. Other companies that retail parts for our vehicles as well may provide a somewhat similar service but the edge that MSA has is that they are almost exclusive to Z owners of all years. It is up to all of us to shop aronud for he best price. We are not forced to buy from them exclusively. I have a list of over 50 parts suppliers saved to my favorites and at some point or another during my rebuild on Projrct 3/72 I may in fact use them all.

Well I began watching it not expecting much, as a matter of fact I was flipping back and forth between the basketball game. I believe it took more than 72 hours personally but they try to make the audience believe it was 72 hours. At least the challengers car still looked like a Z. Overall I considered it a GROSS waste of time ,money,effort, and TV time.

WELCOME JOAKCAL Travel'n Man is right on about the rotted fuel vapor lines. To replace all of them it might be better to drop the fuel tank. One line runs into the deck on the drivers side of the car and attaches to the tank just above where the muffler is and it has an elbow. It is common for this particular spot to rot due to constant heat from the muffler. I have seen people try to replace them without removing the tank but they have horror stories to tell afterwards. Fuel tank removal is generally not a big deal. And as StephenJ said that rear hatch seal can allow fumes to enter as well. Good Luck!

OK 1st 1969 Plymouth Fury 11 2nd 1981 Toyota Celica GT 3rd 1982 280ZX 2+2 4th 1988 Dodge Colt 5th 1981 280ZX (current but being parted out) 6th 1970 240Z #6333 (AVATAR) 7th 1971 240Z parts hog 8th 1971 240Z parts hog 9th 1977 280Z ( The only lemon I ever owned. A lemon because PO didn't care for it) 10th 1998 Chevy Malibu (current) 11th 1972 240Z (Project 3/72) I think MALLY must have owned a car lot at some point or another.

TY KC should have ample salvage yards with one or a few Z cars sitting around. You may even get lucky enough to get one that you can put right in with no major work needed.

Well Zealous I would probably be ok with the clearance. As the fan speeds up you actually get more distance between the fan and the radiator. If you do not re-install the shroud the fan needs to be pretty close for efficiency. It doesn't look as if your factory shroud will fit unless you make modifications to the radiator which I DON'T SUGGEST. If it will give you piece of mind the switch to electric fans would be the route I would take and plan to take on Project 3/72. There should be no "lurching forward" of the engine unless the motor mounts are basically kitchen sponges.

TY Also do you have a 40 amp or a 60 amp alternator? When you install components that draw more power the upgrade to the 60 amp alternator is suggested. Even todays car stereos can have issues if you don't upgrade the alternator. As well if you still have the old fuse box installed it would be a good idea to upgrade with a new one (no glass fuses) from MSA. In the unlikely event that you do damage the harness www.ezwire.com out of Ormond Beach Florida can build one to factory specs for less than $250. WHATEVER you do DO NOT splice anything into the main harness as this will cause a fire for sure. The car in my AVATAR suffered a BBQ one night as a result of splicing into the main harness.

DITTO what IK said

INDEED A fine example of attention to detail and workmanship. Now all we need is 3 weeks to do some touring, preferrably somewhere in Europe. Holland is a cool country to drive around in.

MBman The cancer in most areas will be obvious. Bet underneath it and inspect visually. Push on the bottom anywhere you can touch to see if it feels soft and mushy. Check the rear wheel archs thoroughly. These cars were repaired back durin a time when they just wanted to turn a profit at the body shop no real care taken by the owner or the shop person. Many people just applied a bandage and got paid. The hatch sill is a common area also. Remove all the interior plastic pieces behind the seats and check all those void spaces. A 2+2 has a little more space inside so I would remove all the seats as well. Good Luck!

GREEN Just a thought but give that area on the inside of the right fender a good rinse with water. Most owners don't know that the gas from the battery can corrode just as quickly as the acid itself.

This sounds like someting tailor made for me but unfortunately I am a few years away from completion. Give us a heads up every April and maybe we will see everyone there. BTW if I come from Florida I'm driving all the way.

WELCOME MBMan The interior appears to be in really nice shape. My very first Z was a 1982 2+2 with T-tops and all the nice goodies inside. Sometimes I wish I still had it. If the car has no mechanical issues then I would definitely start on the rust because it will only get worse, that is if you plan to keep it. Many exterior body panels are available from various venders. If possible keep it inside especially when you begin work in earnest so at least the cancer will slow down. Have a good look under the carpets and under the dashboard. Take that windshield wiper cowl off and look inside ther as well. Also keep a close eye on this forum. The members here are very knowledgeable and always willing to help. Good Luck!

Funny...I need the same part. Some conehead towed the car long before I got it and used the old sling type wrecker and its wasted. The valance off the 280Z might work if all the connecting point are the same. The width is definitely the same. My rig is still a few years from completion so its a part that is just over the horizon for me.

STINK Good job on the tank removal and adding new lines. No doubt those rotted hoses were the cause of fumes inside the car. I would suggest getting to work on some of the surface rust before it penetrates and not only check the drivers side for more little presents but any other voids that someone can stuff things into. Adding some braiding to the lines will help them get more life although 38 years is longer than a lot of people live. Good Luck!

Thanks, duly noted, committed to memory.

WELCOME CHAD A failing U-Joint will also make a droning consistent GROWL and increase with speed. Get underneath the car and rotate the driveshaft back and forth while looking at the U-Joint. To answer your question......DO NOT TAKE IT TO A NISSAN DEALER. there maybe no one around that knows how to properly diagnose the issue. A transmission specialist may not be much help either since it may not be a trans related issue. 21K does not seem like a lot of miles but maybe just enough to be at the point of parts beginning to fail. A vehicle that sits for prolonged periods of time can have issues as well. So that leaves you with the option I would choose, and that is find someone that has experience with these cars. Take it to the same person that works on the ZX unless it is a dealer. The service manager in my local NISSAN dealership didn't even know what and "SU Carburettor" was.

CHRIS What year is the car? The later S30' didn't have much of a VL problem even in hot climates. There might be a connection of some sort that is not that great once the car does warm up. The next time you have this issue take off one of the fuel lines off and turn the key to let the fuel pump energize if you have an electric pump. Disregard this if you have the mechanical pump. Have someone inside the car so you don't fumble and get gas on a hot engine. This will confirm whether or not fuel is being pumped. I will watch this space for any results.

KJ I see some discoloration on the green wire as if it gets hot or got too hot at some point or another. Is the vacuum line plugged into the bottom of the AFM? If the car had a previous owner no doubt they had an issue and that was the solution they came up with. Having the thermotime switch disconnected can cause idling issues as well. It tells the ECU that the car is warm enough and allows the cold start valve to close. My suggestion is find a good Z mechanic and let it get sorted out properly. No point in throwing unecessary parts at it. Good Luck.

I like it too Dave. My rig is still a few years from completion and I have dreamt about this exact modification. I have a spot on the center console right near my right knee that would be perfect for it. I understand at the moment it has to go in where the ignition switch was but with a little ingenuity I believe it could be mounted elsewhere. I will keep my eye on it though. Maybe an early XMAS present from the "WIF"

The fuel smell could very well be the rear weather strip. Either it has been removed or it is rotted. As you drive along the car creates a vacuum behing it sucking the smell of the exhaust right into the car. A BIG WELCOME. I echo what everyone else says about modifications. Get it road worthy and ultra reliable first and then knock off one improvement at a time. May you drive many miles with a BIG

ZLUVR I have 2 4 speeds and a 5 speed in the garage all complete, but i guess those wouldn't help someone with an automatic. If you decide on the U-PULL-IT yard it might be better to buy the entire transmission if you come across one unmolested. Can never have enough parts. Good Luck!

To the good people of JAPAN you have our thoughts and prayers. Yokohama was nearby some of the most extreme devastation. The build plate on the right front strut tower of my 1970 says "DATSUN MOTOR COMPANY YOKOHAMA JAPAN". Not sure if NISSAN is still based out of Yokohama if so be prepared to wait for anymore 370's and watch for the price tags on available ones to skyrocket.

I personally am NOT TOO KEEN on the 3 into 1 fabrication. There is not much room under the car for the exhaust to exit the engine bay and consideration must be given to the steering shaft and the TC rod connection. A 6 into 1 alleviates the headache of custom fitting.