esmit208

The car to the left is pretty close in manufacture date to TEXASZ Manufacture date 6/70 VIN HLS30-6333 Originally baby $^!# lime Now Boston Gruene 275

Bienvenido Cachanilla It is always a pleasure to welcome a new member. My advice don't just beat it to death after you get it running. Do a full restoration. You will be glad you did. These projects take lots of time and can be a considerable expense. So be sure in your mind that you are committed. Good Luck!

Welcome DJ My suggestion is to have it covered witha piece of sheet metal and never have any worries of water leaking in. These aftermarket hack jobs are so problematic and not worth the headache. If you restore it and it leaks all you will want to do is get rid of it.

Are these engines meant for Z car applications? The price is crazy!

LONETREESTEVE It is difficult to wrap my mind around just how close you are. Yes I know 1000 hours is a lot of time but you are almost finish with the hard work. I am currently sandblasting a 240Z manufactured in 3/72 so I know how time consuming and dirty it can be. But like yourself my two boys are a priorty. A few hours on the weekend and in a year or so you are driving it. Anyway I hope it falls into the hands of a knowledgeable person with plenty of commitment because thats what it will take. I have been working on mine for two years and I see at least another 3 years before I turn the key. Good luck and maybe you will change your mind.

Welcome KiileZ Post some pics of what you are working on. If you have any questions or concerns you will find plenty of help here. BTW don't expect to find a nice 240 that somene is willing to part with for a reasonable price. After the effort and expense it is more likely that your chances are better to find a restoration project at a reasonable buying price but by all means continue your search.

Welcome Dean If you are interested in adding performance I would definitely NOT do a V8 conversion. Triple carburettors and maybe a few internal goodies will give you plenty of HP if that is what you desire and you will not have CONVERSION REMORSE. Your rig looks SWEEEET!

Steve If you are really interested in honing your skills do some karting at a facilty that has relatively quick karts. It relieves the worry of shifting and you learn how to use the brake to keep the machine in a straight line. Also watch a few heel-n-toe videos to learn how to use the transmission more effectively. The downshift should always be preceded by a throttle blip. Keep it on the Island!

BLUEZCRAZY Welcome. You will find plenty of advice, opinion, and fodder on this site. We are all more than happy to share all 3.

AMBIGUoUS The thumping noise from the rear may be a worn out differential strap or struts that need to be replaced or a combination thereof Water leak sounds like a heater core that needs to be replaced or a hole that is not visible possibly caused by an unseen rusted out area behind the dashboard or a grommet in the firewall that has rotted out The heat is the hot water from the radiator that circulates through the heater core that normally provides interior heat and defrost Oil PSI issue could possibly be a faulty sending unit located about a fingers distance from the oil filter passenger side engine compartment. Not sure what this is would have to hear it "A metal 'shrill'/metal vibrating noise when car is parked or while accelerating" So there you go.

From time to time some of you may have read my responses to other threads and saw a reference to Project 3/72. Well I was finally able to upload some pictures of it's progress. At the moment I am sand blasting section by section and appliying a sealer immediately afterwards. At the same time I am pulling all th einterior parts harnesses, interior, controls,etc. I began removing paint with abrasive 3M wheels and finally took my friends advice and got a sandblaster. The difference is incredible. The sand exposes every minute imperfection and completely strips the surface down to the bare metal. It also shows you where the holes are. This will be a big advantage when I begin the welding phase of the restoration. Project 6/70, my profile picture did not see this sort of treatment when I had it apart so I learned som valuable lessons from that machine. The plan is to hire Dave Rebello to build a 3.1 possibly a 3.2 stroker for the power and Arizona ZCAR will supply the suspension and brakes. Carbueration will be a 6 pack of OER 47MM's. Will post a pic of them soon. They look good even in the top of my closet. I have many factory 240Z parts so if anyone ever needs a hard to find part just shoot my a private message. The beat goes on!

Zcurves I believe I have a serviceable pair in my garage. I will check in a while and send another post layer today. I also can send a cell pic if I still have them. Watch this space.

STEVE91TT Before using POR15 you need to have that rust blasted off or it will continue it's meal underneath the coating. It is possible to blast the inside without damaging the outside. I had a set of bumpers plated in 2000 and although no one told me either I just new it was a good idea to put something over the inside surface. I just used truck bed liner and 11 years later no rust. But by all means don't just cover the rust get it removed. Good Luck.

NUTZ In Largo a guy and his father, Jack and Ralph Ransky own a shop named D'Elegance auto. I believe this is the link www.deleganceauto.com. Jack has done some SCCA racing and he did a good job on an engine build for me. His shop is easy to find when crossing the the HOWARD FRANKLIN. BTW the under carriage looks sweet. Very nice job.!

WELCOME ALEX I would like to ditto what SIGNAL34 said about rust being the biggest issue with the 240Z. You can replace or upgrade any other mechanical component but the rust has to be eliminated. I am restoring a 1972 from top to bottom front to back. I began attacking the rust with abrasive discs but took my friends advice and got a CLARKE 20 gallon sandblaster. If it has that ugly brown color on it the sand will remove it and expose any holes that may need to be filled in. I plan to post some pictures as soon as I can of the progress but if you are ever in the Melbourne area you are welcome to stop by. The car has all the fenders removed so you will be able to see the areas underneath the bodywork,areas you don't see when buying a car with all the bodywork attached. If you plan to visit the coast e-mail me at edtwomuchz@gmail.com. for directions to my home. I'm easy to find. Good luck car searching.

Sandblasted!

Keep moving on Project 3/72. I hope to: Finish sandblasting by the time it gets hot here Have new floors and outer panels installed before It gets cool again Have it ready to paint by years end.

5150 You should have bought a lottery ticket the day you took posession of it. The only time i saw an original look that good was on the sales room floor. Take care of it and may it see many highway miles. Project 3/72

I agree with SPOKANEZ. It's all in the preparation. I did some panels on th e72 that I am working on with abrasive discs and a ROLOC tool. The discs work reasonably well but not able to get to all the pits and crevixes. I finally took my friends advice and go a CLARKE 20 Gallon sandblasting pot and the results are amazing. The sand hits it all and turns the metal with. After that I seal with RUSTOLEUM rust reformer. SKS black works pretty good for a final coat but I think I am going to put a layer of POR15 between the SKS and the reformer. The sand does a much better job than the discs but stripping and re-sealing can be like that. But when i close this car up in the future I won't have any issues ever again. Will post pics as soon as I can. I shot the gas tank and it looked the way it did before it was installed in Yokohama many years ago.

KATS I was in seventh grade when the 240Z hit the showrooms of north America as was just about everyone else who was not old enough to buy one at the time. I have often heard the phrase,"POOR MAN'S SPORTSCAR" but rarely if ever,"POOR MAN'S PORSCHE". A teacher in my neighborhood bought the very firsy one that I saw on the streets. From the moment I saw it I knew I had to have one even though driving was still a few years away for me. In my view the Datsun developed it's following due mostly to the results it was able to realize on the track at various SCCA races over the years. The performance parts were not available right away but had to be developed over the years by engineers and racing them. In 1970 not many mechanics knew how to really extract the maximum performance out of them. When more and more people gained more knowledge about them is about when the comparisons began to be made. In America in the 70's it was all about the down draft not the side draft carburetor. It was about about V8's and not straight 6's. Many of the exterior styling cues may be similar to Jaguars of the period. I have driven these cars almost exclusively since 1983. At my height 6'2" (not sure what the metric conversion is at the moment) I always felt right at home in them. The power is adequate, the handling superb, and above all the reliability is unquestioned. The manual gearbox always felt much smoother and less clunky than any machine from the "BLACK FOREST" that I have ever driven. My Mom owned a 1970 VW Beetle for many years so I know the difference. To close the "POOR MAN'S" reference was always meant to be a detractor and not a compliment. So don't get caught up with past references. The simplicity of the 240Z is indeed it's beauty.

St. Stephen If you have a lower front valance, the piece between the head lamps and beneath the grill that connects the corner bodywork with as many decent connecting points as possible I would be interested. I will even pay the shipping cost. The original one was damaged beyond repair when some knuckleheaded tow truck driver towed it many moons ago. Reply at edtwomuchz@gmail.com. THANX

Daishi Mos Def not a quick fix but it can be fixed. If you are serious about it try to get it sandblasted or do it yourself. You will need the space and time though. I do agree that it looks like someone replaced at least one floorboard. The advantage of sandblasting is that it his all the pits and crevices. If you pay someone to do it you have to hope that they are not in a hurry. If you do it yourself you can control the operation. The only way to get it right one time and one time only is to DO IT YOURSELF!! I am currently working on a 1972 and after burning through a compressor and many abrasive discs I took my friends advice and got a larger capacity compressor and a sandblast tank. The time factor is cut into less than half and you are in control. If you are not a welder you may have to contract that out. The important thing is to not end up with another bandage. If you plan to keep it a proper repair is the best thing

Checking the float valve is something you should do if you decide to open her up. But also the float itself has a seam around it and eventually that seam begins to take on fuel and no adjustment will cure the problem. Get a rebuild kit from Z-Therapy or any other supplier and also look into getting some replaacement GROSE JETS. If you are going to open it up you might as well set your mind at ease with a complete service. The kit should come with a guage to porperly set the float height as well. Also look at an exploded view of the carbs.

geoffabapo Try to download a PDF exploded view of what they look like so you get a better understanding of how they work. WEBERS seem to have been ubiquitous at one time so there are plenty of replacement parts. And beside tlorber might have a HOT DATE to cruise up the PCH one weekend.