esmit208

STEVE Yes it will be a beauty. You really inspire me to keep pushing forward on my 2nd resto. My first one was worked on for about 3 years trying to get it ready to go to Indianapolis back in 2000 for the Formula 1 GP. The car made the trip with one seat and no finishing carpet but I had a great time. I did find out one thing though, they are difficult to restore whlie you drive them. If you don't make ZCON this year don't worry. There are plenty other enthusiast events around the country. My 72 that is in resto will not turn a wheel until it is complete ( both seats and carpet). I'm planning to take my oldest son to first day in 1st grade. That's still 5 years down the road. Keep plodding along. BTW the floors do look good and your suggestion about the clecos is a good one. I work for an aircraft manufacturer and I can get them at their cost. I should have a welder in about a month or so. A word of advice to anyone that reads this, leave the gearbox in while the floors are being installed. It allows the tunnel to stay in the same place after you cut out the rotted floors and the new ones are a tad easier to fit. If the gearbox is removed the tunnel will shift once you cut the rotted stuff away. Remember....HAPPINESS isn't just around the corner....HAPPINESS is the corner!

Hey 81 The factory put the holes in the firewall of all those models. It was easier (and cheaper). When I say holes I mean the holes for the clutch master cylinder. Have a look at one with auto trans and they should have a covering grommet over them. The swap shouldn't be a hack job because the only items needed are the slave and master cylinders, clutch and brake assembly.

Pics of my garage pale in comparison to you gentlemen but since you asked!

Well It seems even though the mileage is proclaimed to be low it does seem to have many parts attached the didn't come with the car when sold. This might cause a potential buyer some consternation depending on how persnickitty they are about matching parts. More often than not anyone that is interested in buying is looking to modify to their taste and scavenged parts from assorted vehicles wouldn't be a reason to kill the deal. I would however suggest let the potential buyer make an offer and then you respond as you see fit. You may even get offers much higher than you expect depending on how motivated the buyer is. For instance the first modification if I was the buyer...install a 280ZX close ration 5 speed gearbox. Good Luck 2MUCHZ

Will You may have your own fan club here before you know it. I have just begun resto work on Project 3/72 so you can count on me to purchase sevreal items. I will make a list as I continue disassembly. As a suggestion would you be interested in reproducing some items such as choke knobs in billett aluminum? I personally think small interior pieces like that wold look absolutely magnificient. Just try to picture billett window cranks! I will stay tuned

Yes SPITZ Definitely a good find. The performance upgrades are slick as well. Speaking of performance, since it appears your are spending money on such a fine machine I would personally ALWAYS opt for performance over not so functional stick on body parts. The factory lines are sufficient enough so as not to warrant those horrid pseudoaerodynamic add-ons. Instead of wasting your hard earned $$$$ on that stuff put it into performence pieces so that your machine can go anywhere anytime reliably. Remember, HAPPINESS isn't just around the corner, HAPPINESS IS the CORNER. 2MUCHZ

Hey ZED Why don't you just convert to disc brakes on the rear. The stopping power is better and you are only allowed one machining of the drums. So eventually you will have to have new drums anyway. Also to have truly effective stopping power with drums the slack adjustment has to be made periodically. 2MUCHZ

ZU I had a similar problem with SKINNER UNION carburettors. If the float develops a leak meaning if fuel actually penetrates the plastic float it was not possible to stop the leaking issue. It was most evident when the engine was just turned off. Try replacing the floats themselves and then go back to the suggested settings. Good Luck 2MUCHZ

RBULITS There could be a slight difference. The automatic trans harness may have the circuit for the neutral safety switch which was incorporated so the car would not start in a gear other than PARK or maybe NEUTRAL. GOOD LUCK 2MUCHZ

OK ONIZ We all like to solve our own issues because it helps us to be better trouble shooters. But now it's time to take it to a true professional. Words of advice though, never buy electronic parts from a junkyard. They may be in worse shape than what you already have and you could end up with a bigger issue than you currently have. The ignition switches are not universal. They have a different circuit between the fuel injected and carburetted models. If possible find someone that specializes in Z cars. More often than not they will let you watch while they fix the problem. They generally appreciate the owners desire to learn about his vehicle and if you pick their brains enough some will even give you preferential treatment. Otherwise you may just throw many $$$ in parts at the problem and never fix it properly. Good Luck 2MUCHZ

Adam If none of the other suggestions work try replacing your thermal timing sensor if your vehicle is so equipped. If it is it is located right next to the sensor for the water temperature. NISSAN/DATSUN installed these on early models to integrate with the cold start valve. Good Luck 2MUCHZ

Well Sincce I just started resto work in the summer of 09 that's what I plan to continue with (PROJECT 3/72) At the moment I'm still stripping the paint so I can get to all the cancer areas. I plan to do all the body work and have it ready for paint by Christmas 2010. The dry part of the year seems to yield the best results when applying paint. I am in ni hurry to finish as the projected date is when my oldest son goes to first grade. He is only 18 months old at the moment. So wish me luck!. "Happiness isn't just around the corner, Happiness IS the corner! 2MUCHZ

2FAST2Z That is one HOT video. And you are right, NOTHING beats the sound of a 6 pack!

Can someone please instruct me on inserting a picture so that it appears when I reply to a post. I like many of the ones that I see and would like to have one appear as well. THANX 2MUCHZ

My score was 84%. I forgot the MUSTANG did appear in the movie GOLDFINGER. Mr. Bond trashed it with one of his 007 gadgets from "Q". In my opinion that's what should happen to all Mustangs! 2MUCHZ

Hey ZC70 A big thanx for the parts supplier links. I'm working on a 1972 and the additonal supplier info will be a HUGE help. Be smooth behind the wheel! 2MUCHZ

MARTY Just to ditto what everyone has already chimed in about, simply bolting on different carburettors will add HP's but ultimately they need precise tuning. Higher performing camshafts are not always a necessity but highly suggested. Camshafts with shorter duration may not hold the intake valve open long enough to take full advantage of the fuel air mixture which determines how powerful the explosion will be. In addition if you eventually do install triple carbs having the correct jetting installed for the application is a part of the tuning process. Good luck at the track! 2MUCHZ

Well SM You do have what we refer to as a "PROJECT" I got a 72 in just about the same shape more or less. Plan on taking several years to get it like you want. If you forget anything or cut any corners you will just have to fix it again. As someone said earlier "THINK TWICE FIX ONCE"! It won't be a wallet killer unless you go over the top with restoration work. Before you spend a penny decide if you want OEM or heavily modded or a combination. My suggestion is to first get the body tight again. While doing this you will be able to decide what engine and drivetrain setup you want as well as the interior. GOOD LUCK! 2MUCHZ

NZ This is the first time I've seen these but with precise adjustment capability they will no doubt be fine. Take a look at www.arizonazcar.com. They offer a billet aluminum tension rod with the same precise adjustment characteristics although a tad more pricey. 2MUCHZ

Hello Tom Taking it down to the metal is the only way to find all the trouble spots and heal them. I am currently working on a 240 built in 3/72. I found it complete with all the interior and motor. It was fitted with an E88 cylinder but I don't plan to use it. The fitting of an N42 head with a bored and stroked lower end plus a diesel crankshaft will be the final setup. Good luck and take your time! 2MUCHZ

Send the link for Classic Datsun Parts Canada Thanx 2MUCHZ

Yes Jared A HUGE thumbs up on the resto. I too prefer the clean natural outside lines. I'm not much for the stick on body pieces. Like many other people salivating over your BAD arse rig, I too am restoring a 1972. I plan to keep mine carburetted 47mm OER triple side drafts. The old school look under the hood really appeals to me. Your machine will be a sleeper though. But I believe we can all tell by the dwelling in the background, you aren't strapped for cash. Please drive and look after her carefully. If you want to race, go where everyone else is racing "THE RACETRACK" not the street. You will have some challengers but do your best to resist the temptation to put them in their places. These cars are very nimble but don't offer much protection in the event of high speed impact. When you get it on the road take a long road trip in the early spring or early autumn. You will really appreciate the time, money, and effort spent. PEACE 2MUCHZ