esmit208

It makes off the shelf parts storing a lot easier. Just go get one and you can't be wrong. This too confused me a few years ago. Pretty forward thinking I would say!

Are you sure the welt cannot be fitted using other brands weather strips? I ask because no one else reported having this issue and I plan to use the KIA

Looks good ALBY!!!!!!!!!. Be sure to get several good coats of protectant on those welded seams, thats the last place you want rust to form as well as the paint that was cooked away. If you have a West Marine in your town they sell a really good marine sealant. Enjoy the miles and post pictures of how it sits once back on the ground. Nice work space BTW!

Like most others I too didn't realize you were here. Very nice work and lots of room to get it done BTW. But I am curious, when do you find time to go to an actual JOB or is it not a necessity where you are? You have a bunch of cool stuff going on and seemingly plenty of time on yourr hands! We should all be so fortunate. Maybe someday down the road I will be able to put my hands on a nice TARGA. I always liked that one. Keep up the good work and DEFINITELY KEEP MOMMA AROUND! She is what got my attention initially but like always cars prevail!

Looks GREAT! SK's have an accelerator pump, no choke. Let us know how the choke mechanism works. Fortunately here in Florida, at least central Florida, not too many cold morning starts to evaluate the accelerator pump. STAY ON IT!

THANX SITE. As the reassembly of mine transitions write-ups like this will help us all avoid MAIN HARNESS BBQ's!

Carpartsmanual.com will display a diagram. Good luck.

FIND SOME WAY TO COVER THE BACK END OF THE CARPORT. Cheers BTW . As you already know these cars do not like exposure to the elements for prolonged periods of time. You will see bubbles in the finish on the hatch within a year. Car covers of all types hold a little moisture underneath. The only hope you have is good rust protection from the inside and anywhere else you can put it in underneath. The panels come off rather easily from the inside so a good interior inspection is worth a Saturday afternoon, if you haven't already done so. Keep it as dry as possible with bi-yearly inspections underneath and all the seams. Be sure to keep the windshield cowl drains clear and unobstructed to avoid bubbles on the lower inside front fender section just behind the front wheels. Keep the rubber cover installed, the one just out of view behind the front wheel and at the front bottom of the door. It keeps dirt and debris from being throw up inside the valance beneath the doors. No exposed metal to rust out and be an issue before you realize it. Get a good seal on that seam around the rear wheel arches. If you took out the piece that acts as an extended piece of the passenger rear wheel arch just in front of the fuel filler neck, put it back if possible and retain tire clearance. It also acts as a blocking device to keep the floor on that side from being sandblasted raw. I actually fitted and installed a piece for the drivers side for mine although the muffler tends to do a fair amount of debris blocking on that side. Make sure the inside point at which the rear bumper bracket connects to the inside bodywork is not beginning to be compromised by nature. Do as much to maintain the integrity of the chassis as the mechanics. As a matter of fact the chassis needs to have a close look kept on it especially if driven regularly. As far as letting the bottom of the car touch anything.......TRY TO AVOID!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. That is generally the first step to rust starting underneath. Nice pic with the new addition to the family BTW. Thumbs up to the Misses for understanding. We should all be so lucky. Enjoy it and take care of it. HAPPINESS....Isn't just around the corner.....HAPPINESS IS THE CORNER!

I know it is a bit late but ZCar Depot sells a spindle removal tool for $80. A good investment, it pays fpr itself with one use. Two new spindes cost about the same amount. I almost had to learn this same difficult lesson some years ago. Fortunately for me a tap cleaned the slight mushroomng that occurred. Many tools have been developed over the years to make servicing easier. To everyone please do your research before costing yourself an extra expense. Nice rig BTW!

CASTROL 20W50 here. Never was much for additives and synthetics!

V12 I can feel your anticipation. When is the last time you had a full nights sleep! My is in the garage still and some nights it is difficult to sleep thinking of my next move. CONGRATULATIONS! Period correct is ok for those it really matters to, but for me having a daily reliable driver is more important and to have it be personalized for my taste. To see someone else's project come to fruition really inspires me as it should to anyone undertaking something like this. The many hours spent crawling around and spending an untold amount of $$$$$$ makes it priceless. Please enjoy the broken line rushing underneath your wheels and put the best lights in front of it since you seem to be planning to drive in low light or dark conditions. When you get a chance how about some video! The AIR/FUEL ratios seem to be about where most others, (especially triple carb owners) are aiming for. A few dollars for some dyno time will be money and time well spent to dial in the tuning. 12 to 14 seems to be the window.

Good research. If I look vigilantly enough I think I have the triangular bracket shown in the second diagram. I am going out on a limb saying this only because my 2002 Passat wagon has something similar to the air pump which blows fresh air into the exhaust so the vehicle can pass emissions. My guess is this was Datsuns' solution to the same problem. Because carburetors have an imperfect mix of air and fuel there is probably no real way to keep harmful emissions from spewing into the environment. But man are they SEXY!

The air pump was a factory installed part for emissions. The A/C was dealer or aftermarket installed and the air/smog pump was removed to facilitate A/C installation. It just took until the late 1973 before these systems were developed. There was an additional banana shaped bracket on the air pump somewhat like the alternator as that allowed belt tensioning. The air pump probably had matching connecting points to the bracket. The last time a saw a car with the air pump functioning and attached was back in the 70's. If you are considering installing A/C the kit you buy will have vehicle specific hardware to make the installation as seamless as possible. Look at Vintage Air. They seem to be the most popular vendor for these cars. Good luck!

The finish is not too important. However the run out, (comsistency of the radius) is much more important. This should be check before installation. If there are high or low spots it will cause premature bearing wear.

There is a similar tool to set triples I saw somewhere on a JDM site. I will search and return.

Ok

This is a prime example of what is achieveable. ABSOLUTE NECESSARY ITEMS NEEDED.....TIME.....DESIRE........TOOLS.....SOME MECHANICAL ABILITY, and most of all a TON OF COMMITTMENT. Boy I thought mine was in bad shape but this car obviously spent a lot of time in its youth north of the Mason Dixon line. Other than this young man's true mechanical skills the thing that impresses me the most is he kept at it even knowing his task would be monumental. Most of us here know how reltively simple it is to replace and upgrade the mechanicals for they are pretty much plug and play. But to develope these skills, when you are not earning a weekly paycheck to do so is really top of the table in my book. Jobs like these can intimdate professionals but self belief concurs just about anything. After I finish work on my 70 I will definitely farm some panel pieces to him. Maybe if I am fortunate enough to enlarge my garage the use of an English Wheel and metal benders and TIG welder may find a home there. Great stuff indeed! STAY ON IT MAN!

The little pastic ball is inside the GROSE JET. It either restricts or allows flow and I believe it screws into the lid. Uncross your fingers it makes them easier to use.

But I suppose if you can tolerate a monthly payment A PORSCHE is a good make to live with. I guess the 911 won't carry enough groceries? Does your car stsy that clean inside all the time? WOW

But I suppose if you can tolerate a monthly payment A PORSCHE is a good make to live with. I guess the 911 won't carry enough groceries?

Take a look at YOUTUBE. There are several videos that really simplify it.

That center curved portion is what must be adjusted. You are looking at everything you need with the exception of the swivel mechanism. Don't squeeze the float too tightly. It has a seam and must not be separated or the inside of the float will take on fuel and will not act as a float. Go online and there is something in picture or video form to help you with the process.

Another tidbit about GROSE JETS, in addition to them helping to control things in the float bowl they also act like EMULSION TUBES that are common in triple side draft carbrettors. Since your are in there inspect those to ensure no little particles are inside. When the fuel level drops in the bowl the float drops in unison and then the little ball inside the GROSE JET allows fuel to fill the bowl. As the fuel level rises the metal tab on the float comes down and the little ball begins to restrict fuel flow so the bowls don't leak over. This is the sequence of events but it all happens simultaneously to complete a smooth action. Be patient and remember its not an OFF/ON switch, it is a smooth and consistent progression.

VROOOOOM....VROOOOM! They probably sound llike that!

This is truly inspirational. There might be better ways to bond but I struggle to think of any. Maybe one day for them, at least thats the plan!