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CaseyByrd72

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  1. CaseyByrd72

    Entry 4 Interior Removal

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    Back at it this past weekend after some much needed vacation!  I removed the rear bumper, fuel expansion tank, and the interior.  I had some help from my better half.  We spent about 4 hours Saturday and 5 hours on Sunday.  I started with the rear bumper.  The original bumper has hole in the middle of the top, from what I presume was a hitch. The back side of the bumper has a good bit of rust.  These two issues probably add up to a new bumper. Ouch!
    Next was removal of the fuel expansion tank and the fuel filler neck.  The neck came out easy enough, but the filler neck was was not so easy.  The flange at the top of the neck needed to be folded in so it would pass down through the hole in the body.  The neck was badly damaged, no doubt contributing to the fuel smell when driving. 
    Then we removed the interior, which was straight forward and has begun to reveal the extent of floorpan rust.  The passenger side is worse, with complete rust-through just behind the rear most seat support, about one inch by four.  I have about 75% of the floor insulation off and it appears it was good at holding moisture.  As the plastic interior panels were removed, most broke since they have become so fragile with age.  
    Next week I will remove the front and rear suspension and get unibody mounted to a rotisserie so I can get a good look at the underside and rails.  Thanks for reading.  








  2. CaseyByrd72

    Entry 3 Begin Exterior Teardown

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    This weekend I worked on starting the exterior teardown.  I started with the rear finisher around the tail lights.  This revealed more rust damage than what I expected.  I knew the hatch sill would need to be replaced but now it seams like there is deeper damage. I will be able to determine the extent only after the sill is removed.  I was also able to remove the hood cowl, wiper assembly and the front fenders.  The first fender took a lot longer than anticipated.  This was because the guide I'm using directed me to remove the top inner fender bolts, one near the rocker panel, and one in the door jamb.  What it didn't tell me is that there are two near the rocker panel, seven along the top inner fender, two joining the front of the fender to the corner valance panel, and three behind the headlight.  Only three broken bolt heads from both fenders.  Not bad considering it appears all of them are originals! Once the fenders were removed and the areas were cleaned up, everything looked solid, which is amazing considering how much debris was accumulated there. I spent 5 hours working on the Z and no money spent. I'm still shooting for April 2nd to have everything off of the uni-body and I still feel good about that goal.  Thanks for reading.














  3. CaseyByrd72

    Entry 2 Engine Bay and Fuel Tank

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    I continued removing hoses and the wiring harness from the engine bay. I labeled all the wires with duct tape and a sharpie. Also removed the gas tank. Other than 44 years of dirt and a small dent, it is in really good shape.  I spent a total of about 4 hours working on it this weekend. No money spent this week, but I have started looking at the complete stainless steel  hardware replacement kits.  Looks like they run about $300, and for that price, well worth the convenience and quality upgrade.  I've set a goal to have everything pulled off of the uni-body by April 2. I think short term goals will motivate me to keep going.  I now understand why some restorations can take years!  Lastly, I noticed that the pics in my first blog were not the best, so I tried to make a conscious effort to do better.  Enjoy, and thanks for reading.







  4. CaseyByrd72

    Entry 1 Engine accessory removal

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    I will be restoring my 72z back to "near original" condition. I will utilize all original equipment that can be reused and replace what can't with new. I am not overly concerned with originality, especially if it is expensive.  I have set a budget of $7,700, and must include some tools, but I will document that as I go.  
    I will be utilizing two primary resources as guides for the process; How to Restore Your Datsun Z-Car by Wick Humble and of course, the Haynes manual.
    I began last weekend by disconnecting all wiring and hoses from the engine and transmission and, preparing for removal.  Two of the rear drive shaft bolts did not want to break loose so I persuaded them with the sawzall.  I used my floor jack to support and remove the transmission without much trouble.  I used a 2 ton engine hoist to remove the engine with a 10 foot section of chain wrapped around the exhaust header and an M10 bolt inserted into the bracket hole(?) next to the fuel pump.  I purchased a 750lb capacity engine stand from Harbor Freight for $46.  You can see it in photo 108 attached.  I had to purchase the mounting bolts ($9) which were M12x1.5, 75 mm long.  Unfortunately they were too long for the stand and bottomed out in the engine block before tightening so I cut a little off.  In all, It took me about 10 hours to get the engine and trans out.
    Today I worked for about 5 hours removing the battery doors, front bumper, grill, hood hinges, windshield cleaner reservoir, coil, and started brake lines.  The brake lines have been a pain!  I went to the auto parts store and got flared tube wrench for $6.  Well worth the money, but I still couldn't get one loose. It's in the proportioning valve so......
    Thanks for reading. Feel free to post questions, comments, and suggestions.














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