Terrapin Z

Those turned out great. Even with the extra cost for the powder coat, it looks well worth it. Good luck on the sale of the other two.

I'm not sure what the intent was either, for a copyright. I did not try and look it up. If you do ask please share the reply. Zhome's list is on the internet open to public view, and it has names on there too. Phillip put that text in there for some reason, perhaps just to protect his intellectual property. The way it is put together? The actual copyright text would say, but I don't want to spend the time to find it.

I had first added this PDF to my post ^ but then read through Phillips site and found this, so I edited it out of my posy as I did not ask for permission to use it. Not policing here, you can make whatever post you want. Perhaps you did ask, perhaps he does not mind.

Thanks @Patcon I forgot about the retaining ring, it is not shown in the diagram. Looks like you were successful in removing the pushrod. I had a hard time getting the disc out of my booster with it off the car. I wish you luck.

I must have missed this thread. My 1981 CB900F

You can just pull that straight out. There is a metal ring with a rubber seal on it that will be loose out of the hole (#1 in the side view pic). The reaction disc (#18) is on the back disc of that rod (#2) Just judging by the amount of adjustment thread is showing I'd venture to guess the disc has fallen off. I had to remove the whole booster and shake it around until I could fish out the rubber disc. I do not think you can open the booster while it is still in the car. Gives you the chance to repaint it too. Even when adjusting the rod they mention the disc dropping out. I glued mine back on to avoid it falling off again while reassembling. I assume you have a FSM?

Ha Ha, I just put this room together, not a problem if you have the space for it. All a worthy cause. I could collect Magic the Gathering cards.....Not 💤

From my collection, pics of 73 240's 6 digit vin plates, and a 75-76 280 which is embossed not engraved. It looks like a 280 washer bottle too. There is no mount surface for the ID plate. Odd 138310 is a re vin'ed 70 as a 73 rivets show the re tag

"Google" 240Z vin tags and it looks like the rivets are smaller and there is space between the rivet and the numbers. Examples below. The door jam looks more correct but again just need the right size rivets.

I use it to keep up with my Z club and other local events. That's the only place they post nowadays. I was also trying to buy /sell some parts. You sure have to wade though some deep Zuckindung on there everyday. You think the ads on here are bad.....non stop. 95% of posts are either bashing someone or making fun of them. Sad really.

I wonder if they would show you a picture of the VIN on the firewall. Not the dash, door, or fender well, those can all be changed easily. The firewall would have to be welded in.

I wondered about the cars I find in Junkyards, I always try and save the vin tags but I never have seen any JY cars listed as unknown owners on the registries. I looked over Phil's just a little and only saw owners stating their car was totaled and sold at auction etc. but not cars found in a JY where you don't know the owner or history. I would think this info would benefit the registries with data of known scrapped cars. I expect these two would cross data to fill in gaps one either ones pages.

It is a pain after you have assembled everything. You have to pull the M/C back off the booster and extract that rod. The pad sits on that flat metal part inside the booster. The rubber coated disc behind that metal head in the pic is the seal for the M/C opening and just slides out. No way of knowing until you pull it out and confirm the rubber pad is mounted on the metal head. Even if you did not pull the rod out of the booster, that pad can just fall off once the pressure is off of it. (pretty sure that's what happened on my car. I was just changing the M/C) That's why I JB weld'ed it on to the metal. Rule everything else out that is suggested here, but it just might be the issue.

Just ruling out some known issues. Another thing that often happens with the brake system. (it happened to me) is the reaction disc in the booster falls off the push rod for the M/C. It is a small rubber pad. Without it the brakes can act really erratic. it is the dropped down rubber piece in this picture. If it is not in place it is likely inside the booster shell. After fishing mine out, I glued it on to the metal pad.

Phil has three 2 digit cars listed. 00023, 00037, 00057

One thing that happens is the front calipers can get installed on the opposite side of the car from where they came from. You can double check this by looking at the bleeder, It needs to be at the top of the caliper. When the calipers are on the opposite sides the bleeder ends up on the bottom making a proper bleed impossible. Makes for a sold pedal with the air still in there.

It's a FaceBook registry. There is a 260Z and a 280Z one as well. After you join their group (free) they supply you this certificate, and offer to sell a sticker for your car. ($4) You can buy a deluxe certificate with a hi res pic of your car for $20 Carl's list is a lot bigger and more accurate I'm sure. Carl is in the Group. Phillip Ray is the FB group originator. (admin)

Mine had a long overlap splice with a ton of bondo. I was having repairs done for a deer impact so I was able to have the shop replace the quarter at the same time they were doing the front end. Just cost a little more but that was the time to do it since the whole car was going to be painted. It looked good from the outside, just a little crazing in the old paint. Different story underneath.

The only things I see that are 240 are the bumpers and the steering wheel, The car looks like a 75. Center console, door pulls, dash heater controls, etc. Too bad they don't show the vin plate. The door jam plate is in one pic but not clear enough to read. The 260z they are selling looks a whole lot better and is on $7K

That blue one is a 280Z. And yeah Flintstone special.

Oh, get used to that phrase, "Buy something else yet again" haha The later seats will work in the early cars, but you will have to swap out the sliders.

PM sent

I must not have used enough tape on the box if the squirrel was able to get out. 😂😂. Glad to hear it made it there safely and you are happy with it. It did look to be in decent serviceable condition. I have worked in Shipping and Receiving for many years and understand packing makes a big difference. I have gotten so many things from eBay and FB that are packed so poorly. I am amazed they weren't just a bunch of pieces in the bottom of the box. Being I work in a large warehouse I have access to a multitude of boxes and packing for free, I know those items can be costly to buy. I'd be interested in hearing back on how the rebuild went, Rob. I am considering this Booster upgrade on my next project / build as well. That is a long ways off still. Just gathering info and a few parts here and there. I did also receive the trade item in the mail the other day but have not really looked at it much other than a once over. I have been on vacation this week and spent a lot of time reorganizing my parts hoard. Plus I tucked my car away for the winter. TZ

Second to reverse usually works well. With it turning would be the best, but as you mentioned it was still in the car so that won't be an option. $100 is a good price. Pick and Pull is $105.00 when they have one but wants a core. I got mine at another yard for $85.00 + core I gave them an old automatic.

Rich, I have this in tan, looks to be in decent shape with no rips just the screw holes from the top trim. From a 73.