Terrapin Z

You can just pull that straight out. There is a metal ring with a rubber seal on it that will be loose out of the hole (#1 in the side view pic). The reaction disc (#18) is on the back disc of that rod (#2) Just judging by the amount of adjustment thread is showing I'd venture to guess the disc has fallen off. I had to remove the whole booster and shake it around until I could fish out the rubber disc. I do not think you can open the booster while it is still in the car. Gives you the chance to repaint it too. Even when adjusting the rod they mention the disc dropping out. I glued mine back on to avoid it falling off again while reassembling. I assume you have a FSM?

Ha Ha, I just put this room together, not a problem if you have the space for it. All a worthy cause. I could collect Magic the Gathering cards.....Not 💤

From my collection, pics of 73 240's 6 digit vin plates, and a 75-76 280 which is embossed not engraved. It looks like a 280 washer bottle too. There is no mount surface for the ID plate. Odd 138310 is a re vin'ed 70 as a 73 rivets show the re tag

"Google" 240Z vin tags and it looks like the rivets are smaller and there is space between the rivet and the numbers. Examples below. The door jam looks more correct but again just need the right size rivets.

I use it to keep up with my Z club and other local events. That's the only place they post nowadays. I was also trying to buy /sell some parts. You sure have to wade though some deep Zuckindung on there everyday. You think the ads on here are bad.....non stop. 95% of posts are either bashing someone or making fun of them. Sad really.

I wonder if they would show you a picture of the VIN on the firewall. Not the dash, door, or fender well, those can all be changed easily. The firewall would have to be welded in.

I wondered about the cars I find in Junkyards, I always try and save the vin tags but I never have seen any JY cars listed as unknown owners on the registries. I looked over Phil's just a little and only saw owners stating their car was totaled and sold at auction etc. but not cars found in a JY where you don't know the owner or history. I would think this info would benefit the registries with data of known scrapped cars. I expect these two would cross data to fill in gaps one either ones pages.

It is a pain after you have assembled everything. You have to pull the M/C back off the booster and extract that rod. The pad sits on that flat metal part inside the booster. The rubber coated disc behind that metal head in the pic is the seal for the M/C opening and just slides out. No way of knowing until you pull it out and confirm the rubber pad is mounted on the metal head. Even if you did not pull the rod out of the booster, that pad can just fall off once the pressure is off of it. (pretty sure that's what happened on my car. I was just changing the M/C) That's why I JB weld'ed it on to the metal. Rule everything else out that is suggested here, but it just might be the issue.

Just ruling out some known issues. Another thing that often happens with the brake system. (it happened to me) is the reaction disc in the booster falls off the push rod for the M/C. It is a small rubber pad. Without it the brakes can act really erratic. it is the dropped down rubber piece in this picture. If it is not in place it is likely inside the booster shell. After fishing mine out, I glued it on to the metal pad.

Phil has three 2 digit cars listed. 00023, 00037, 00057

One thing that happens is the front calipers can get installed on the opposite side of the car from where they came from. You can double check this by looking at the bleeder, It needs to be at the top of the caliper. When the calipers are on the opposite sides the bleeder ends up on the bottom making a proper bleed impossible. Makes for a sold pedal with the air still in there.

It's a FaceBook registry. There is a 260Z and a 280Z one as well. After you join their group (free) they supply you this certificate, and offer to sell a sticker for your car. ($4) You can buy a deluxe certificate with a hi res pic of your car for $20 Carl's list is a lot bigger and more accurate I'm sure. Carl is in the Group. Phillip Ray is the FB group originator. (admin)

Mine had a long overlap splice with a ton of bondo. I was having repairs done for a deer impact so I was able to have the shop replace the quarter at the same time they were doing the front end. Just cost a little more but that was the time to do it since the whole car was going to be painted. It looked good from the outside, just a little crazing in the old paint. Different story underneath.

The only things I see that are 240 are the bumpers and the steering wheel, The car looks like a 75. Center console, door pulls, dash heater controls, etc. Too bad they don't show the vin plate. The door jam plate is in one pic but not clear enough to read. The 260z they are selling looks a whole lot better and is on $7K

That blue one is a 280Z. And yeah Flintstone special.

Oh, get used to that phrase, "Buy something else yet again" haha The later seats will work in the early cars, but you will have to swap out the sliders.

PM sent

I must not have used enough tape on the box if the squirrel was able to get out. 😂😂. Glad to hear it made it there safely and you are happy with it. It did look to be in decent serviceable condition. I have worked in Shipping and Receiving for many years and understand packing makes a big difference. I have gotten so many things from eBay and FB that are packed so poorly. I am amazed they weren't just a bunch of pieces in the bottom of the box. Being I work in a large warehouse I have access to a multitude of boxes and packing for free, I know those items can be costly to buy. I'd be interested in hearing back on how the rebuild went, Rob. I am considering this Booster upgrade on my next project / build as well. That is a long ways off still. Just gathering info and a few parts here and there. I did also receive the trade item in the mail the other day but have not really looked at it much other than a once over. I have been on vacation this week and spent a lot of time reorganizing my parts hoard. Plus I tucked my car away for the winter. TZ

Second to reverse usually works well. With it turning would be the best, but as you mentioned it was still in the car so that won't be an option. $100 is a good price. Pick and Pull is $105.00 when they have one but wants a core. I got mine at another yard for $85.00 + core I gave them an old automatic.

Rich, I have this in tan, looks to be in decent shape with no rips just the screw holes from the top trim. From a 73.

I wasn't sure what you were talking about when you said make one out of two, but there it is. I'll have this one out tomorrow, should only be a couple of days to get to you.

The mechanisms were basically the same up to the 77 as Zed Head stated. They did change the spring parts yours show to have the later "clock" type spring where as the early latch had straight spring that wrapped around a cam. These were prone to breaking so the clock spring took its place. The little plastic bits where the rods attach do crumble and fall apart. That can cause the rods to pop out. To remove from the mechanism pop the rod out first then a gentle squeeze with some needle nose to release the tangs. The pivot cam parts had two sizes the 240 and then the 280 was different (larger i think). There is a plastic stepped collar that fits in the hole The bolt has a step too so as not to crush the plastic and then a staked lock nut to hold it all without too much pressure.

Paint it silver and it is worth $1200.00. I do hope I don't call anybody on this forum out, but this is bad. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1974-240Z-5-speed-manual-transmission/264751936859?hash=item3da471f55b%3Ag%3A1tYAAOSwZtVe1x60&LH_ItemCondition=4

The ones I have seen mounted there are more shaped like the horn relay long and skinny, not square like this one. It also had a short pig tail on it rather than the plug right on type like this one. I too was under the impression it was for the auto metic transmission models, possibly to do with the duel points. That relay looks like the one from under the dash on my ZX (pic) May have been changed out at some point?

Looks like there is a new club starting for parts offered at $1000. Looks like I need to list a few things. 🤪