Terrapin Z

His title is probably rusty too. lol 122 feedback with only 5 being as a seller, 2 cars ( a Jag for $510 and an RX7 for $3700) 2 trailers and one unknown. all more than a year old. 6 pages of feedback as a buyer, again all over a year old. Classiccarconnection00 makes him sound like a car dealer or something. ???

lol, I did not call him, just something I see on FB all the time, when the prices are ridiculous. Kind of like "it ran when I parked it there"

"I know what I got"

$1900 now and still reserve not met.

I have the Float Sync, and think it works quite well. The way I use it is to lay a 14mm nut on the edge as shown and that gives me a great level indicator.

BZ3038 are listed as fitting the 79-83 280ZX front. All the strut companies list 3 types for the Z cars Koni, KYB and (now obsolete) Tokico's https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic20b 240 to early 260 - BZ3015 / BZ3016 late 260 to 280 - BZ3012 / BZ3013 and ZX fronts only. - BZ3038 It would seem to me something is different in the valving or gas charge or length, etc. Reading through my instructions I can find no mention of any accessories that came with the cartridges. There is mention of a spacer needing to be added if the gland nut does not torque down properly. Not sure if this helps you with the issues at hand. Personally I would find the correct application strut. Just my observation and opinion.

Hard to see either of those pieces in the pic's supplied on eBay. (Hood and rear glass.) I am sure a few early parts are there but condition is a factor. Are they worth the reserve price? $?.??

Wow, that is a head scratcher. It sure seems like the strut is not moving down with the weight. If you push the car down, it does move the suspension down right? not super stiff, or no movement? Everything looks right, so I would have to go back to the item that was replaced. If you do pull the strut back out of the tube confirm the BZ number on the strut housing itself. I am running out of ideas here. I put Illumina's in my car FR and RR and it sat really low. I was using their springs though, which the fronts collapsed on me. I recently put heavier springs in and it raised the car but not nearly as much as yours.

$1700 and reserve not met, even for a parts car it seems high for the condition. Hard to say what is going to still be original and/or usable. The center console is of a later year. Interesting tail pipes too. JMO

That is a lot of angle on the front arm, like the struts are not moving or the springs are to heavy. Did you remove all 4 when you changed the struts? Like ZH said maybe mixed the front and rear springs? Also are the Tokico's set on #1 dampening?

With the frame mounts poly, and the trans mount rubber, I would think it wouldn't be too bad. It is a personal choice to be sure. My 70 has no mounts like that, but I don't mind at all. Yes they are.

I understand better now. Those are discontinued from Nissan, unfortunately. You might be better off finding a used mount with bushings in it that are in better shape than yours. JMO

https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nissan-insulator-mount-11320n3000

This CRX image appears to have the rounded ends to the outsides.

I always thought it was the flat side to the frame and the rounded side to the washers.

That is unfortunate that the tag is gone. It does sound like the motor has been changed already No easy way to confirm without the tag. Still a good car nonetheless. It's up to you to do what you want to do with it. Sounded like you wanted more power. Turbo, Stroker motor, even up to a V8. Lots of options. HybridZ is another good forum for swapped motors and more as far as mods, although we would still like to hear about your plans.

No, before you rebuild the brakes and motor, unscrew the vin plate from the strut tower. Clean the plate enough to see the indented numbers, Post your findings!!

Sounds like a bonus situation to me. Even if the DOL / DMV says it is a 71, it is still a mid 1970.

As has been noted above this does look like a late 70 or early 71. (possibly sold as a 71) The vin collaborates that as well. There is usually a build date plate inside the drivers door jam that will have a month / year when the car was built. My guess is Nov or Dec of 1970 The Drivers side strut tower should have a vin plate screwed on that will have the vin number and engine number. The stamp on the motor should be found in the circled area. You might have to clean it off some to see it. I have seen vin plates missing, or painted over. All this will tell you is if the engine is original to the car. If it is they are worth more being left that way, again as mentioned above. All in all it looks unmolested, I would keep it that way if it were mine. I do also understand the allure to add big HP and mod it up. I'd say we ^ would just like to help you make a more informed decision on what to do with it, as that was your original question. Ultimately it is your choice.

Welcome to the club. The car does look to be of an earlier model. It does look like it will have some rust issues as well. The motor looks like it may have already been replaced at some time, so it might not be a numbers matching set up to start with. You can verify the engine number from the stamp below the # 6 plug L24 XXXXXX and compare that to the ID plate mounted on the shock tower. Would you mind sharing the vin number from the dash? Just with a later valve cover and Air cleaner (72?) it looks to me like it was changed out. The 70 does have a few unique parts that are sought after, but I'd say you have a good candidate to do what you want. and enjoy the ride. Just be sure the chassis (brakes, steering, suspension, etc.) can handle the power you put in it. Be safe!

I agree @jayhawk I have learned many things about these cars on this site, discovered some tricks, and have bought and sold here too. Great community indeed. Part is going out USPS today.Glad to help out.

Well it is not as nice as your example, but it is available.

The three screw carbs had different length float valves than the earlier 4 screw carbs. Here is some info about fuel level settings from a few years back.

I know you said these are fresh from Z therapy. I did a swap with them years ago. I just bolted them on and did the basic tune. I never could quite get it to run right. always seemed lean and uneven. Recently I was going back through all the adjustments again and this time added the float level check. I found the rear to be way off. Once I reset the levels with the Float Sync. it ran much better. It was running mostly on the front three just fine, but the rear three were much leaner due to the float height. Your video sounds lean to me, but it's hard to hear clearly on my computer speakers. Just something to at least rule out. No ill will against ZT, it just might have been missed. It did trouble me for some time thinking they had to be set up correctly.

My bad 54320-E4100........ I could not get the site you used to work with the correct part number either. Try this : https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-insulator-strut-54320e4100 They are in Texas. I use NissanParts.cc in Washington = same results.